Our VAH liner is also 22.5 inches deep. However, the wood hood is actually 26 inches deep, included the dreaded (but pretty) arched wood shelf on the front. We specifically went with the VAH liner because our cabinet company (Woodharbor) built the hoods to VAH specifications and would sell them directly through their cabinet vendors as well. Because we were doing the install ourselves, DH didn't want to worry about modifying the hood on site. Our liner literally fits like a glove inside the hood. Also, I am 5'10" tall, if I were shorter, this obviously wouldn't be a problem. I also think if I were taller, I would be more likely to see the hood before I ran my temple into it and it would be less of a problem as well. Here is a picture of the liner inside the wood hood:

OK, so now that height has been resolved, next issue! So, most under-cabinet range hoods are made for 12" deep cabinets, but Ikea's cabinets are 15" deep. So Ikea sells these small filler pieces that mount behind the range hood, which we did buy, but when our contractor initially mounted it he didn't put the filler piece in. So the hood is all the way back. We're torn about whether we should have him move it forward and put in the filler piece: on the one hand, I kind of like that it's further back in space, which addresses my issue the hood being low and hitting our heads on it while cooking (and just generally gives the thing a smaller, more discreet footprint). On the other hand, because the hood is meant to be mounted to a 12" deep cabinet, it means that when mounted all the way back, the top of it starts to slope down before the end of the cabinet, instead of remaining flush and starting to slope down at the end of the cabinet, which I think looks a little awkward. What would you do? Move the hood forward so it fits as its supposed to (and install filler panel? Or take advantage of the opportunity to move it back in space? Pictures attached (how it looks now). FTR -- We will likely be installing cover panels on the sides of the cabinets, so the side of the range will actually be covered. Only the front might look a little weird because of the gap.

@Lisa “I think that Bluestar can be out, I'm feeling that the BTU's are just overkill for my needs” There is more to it than the BTUs. Bluestar also has a 48” range with ring, capped burners and a sealed burner tray, the RCS. Most people buy BS for the star burners though and they have one in the 36” that is lower BTU than the RNB and it is the star burner but that doesn’t help you. There may be some other things on the RCS that would be benefits. You mentioned the griddle. One of the big problems with griddles is getting them evenly heated. There are two things you can do to help this. You can make the heat source over a greater area and/or you can make the griddle of a material that conducts heat well. Thermador has done both. They have a cast aluminum griddle which has very good heat transfer properties and the heat source, which is electric is wide. It is supposed to be nonstick though so durability might be an issue. Wolf used rolled steel which does not heat as evenly as the aluminum. They do try to provide a more even heat with an infrared burner. Wolf depending on where you read on the website has a 1/2 thick surface. VVVV This is BlueSta,s burner. The griddle is half as thick as the Wolf griddle. I would also consider an add on griddle. It leaves all of your burners open if need be. They are very inexpensive. This would be more of an issue with a 36”/6 burner. You can use whatever metal you want as the griddle. I know some who have aluminum, aluminum nonstick and rolled steel. You can have almost 50% more cooking area with a 2 burner add on than you do with a built in. Some people use these as a holding area or like a French top. This is the Royal Industries version and Chef King makes one about like it in rolled steel. I have picked this griddle up full of food and and put it in the oven. This is why the built in is smaller. The size is constrained by the burners next to it. The add on kinda steals a little space from the neighbors being 15” wide. You also have a lot more heat available because the BTUs for the builtin griddle are around 15K total and the Thermador is a little more. The heat for the add on can be whatever the heat of the two burners is combined. 30K + The built in does give you a way to consistently have the same temperature. When you turn it to 350°F, it heats to the same detergent each time. The add on griddle is like adjusting a really big pan. The aluminum add on adjusts very quickly. Wolf takes a little longer. As as far as simmer BTU ratings, BS does not disclose It. Wolf and Thermador are both very low but the Thermador does that by clicking on and off. Wolf has the dual stacked burners. As to these types of burners on prostyle ranges, they are wide. If you can find a place to see how they are with your pans that might be helpful. This is all of them together. The top two are capped burners. This gives you more flare on high heat. The Wolf is stacked so it seems like the flare is not as bad as some. The BS capped burner would have a little more flare but check it out in person. The bottom two are a triple ring burner by Capital and the BS Star. As you turn up the BS, the flame stays more within the footprint of the burner because the flame goes out from the sides of the star rays. The Thermador is more like a modified ring in that as you turn it up, it flares. The star has better heat dispersal if you use cast iron or steel which are poor conductors of heat. The capped burner can leave a cooler middle in the pan unless you are using heat conductive pans like heavy aluminum or heavy copper. The open burner tray just makes it easier or more difficult to clean depending on your perspective. Check the oven size. The BlueStar has enough room, that you can fit a full commercial sheet pan or 2 half sheets side by side. Check with Thermador, I don’t think the 30” oven on the 48” is big enough. Wolf is not that big. Check the broiler size. These are infrared and tend to be smaller.

Induction removes the gas combustion component of cooking plumes, but not the cooking plumes themselves containing grease particulates and moisture. Many induction cooktops can supply more heat into pans than counterpart gas burner cooktops, so grease splatter and/or oil vaporization and smoke can exceed that from a gas burner if not closely supervised. Capture: Nominally one wants a hood with a capture area that overlaps the cooktop by enough that the rising and expanding cooking plumes are fully (technically mostly) captured. This requires (at a minimum and excluding the back wall if present) that at the height of the hood entry area over the cooktop (h) the hood overlap equal at least h x tan(10deg) relative to the outer contours of the largest pots and pans to be used on the peripheral hobs. More than 36-inches height may require even more to compensate for drafts moving the plumes. Containment: Cooking plumes can exceed 1.2 m/s velocity upwards. Probably for most residential cooking with induction the likely highest is closer to 0.6 m/s, but this can be exceeded by dumping a steak onto a searing pan, or throwing stir fry components into a hot wok. To ensure that the momentum of such plumes stays in the (typically low reservoir volume residential) hood, the plumes have to be immediately entrained into the baffle slot air flow. Otherwise plumes may partially "reflect" out due to momentum conservation. It seems that containment requires a flow rate over the capture entry area of 60 to 90 (depending on cooking) ft/min, which is equivalent to 60 to 90 CFM per square foot of entry area. Hence take the area (sq.ft.) resulting from the capture paragraph above and multiply by 90 (or 60 if you are feeling lucky). Blower: The flow rate available from a blower is like that shown in the image below. More pressure loss means less flow rate. Choose a blower that is rated (zero static pressure = free air flow) about 1.5 times the calculated containment flow rate. Cleaning: The baffles collect grease particulates from the larger end of the particulate size spectrum, so any grease or oil cooking will leave a deposit on the baffles. These need to be cleaned, at least for aesthetics, and can be done in a dishwasher for any decent baffle assembly made of stainless steel. Make-up Air: The MUA required is that calculated in the containment paragraph, and may require a blower rating that is approximately that of the blower paragraph. Note that pressure losses in the baffles and hood ducting may or may not exceed those of the MUA path (with filtering and possibly with heating) so the blowers may not need to be identical. If there are no combustion appliances in the residence connected to kitchen air, it may do to have a passive (no blower) MUA system.