We need to know how long have they been planted. If you put them in this year apart from the last one I can't actually see what the problem is. Can you describe what you think is wrong with them? Maybe you are overdoing the 'kindness' and just need to be more patient?

And it would be really helpful to know where you are located.

there is no instant gratification when planting trees... period ...

it has leaves.. what more do you want???

they are doing all their work.. underground.. growing a root mass, sufficient to put out new growth next spring...

what exactly were your expectation ... 12 feet and fruit this year???

heck.. when i used to plant fruit trees.. i didnt expect a fruit for 3 years ... in my MI ... whose season is not quite as long as others.. like where peeps can grow citrus ... btw.. where are you?

ken

My thinking is not enough water. I base that on the fact that everything around these trees looks bone dry. The plants also look drought stressed although on newly planted trees that can be misleading. I'd suggest a good slow soaking to wet a larger area than the drip.

But it would help if you'd give more info on how much and how often you are watering.

Also could you tell us how long the plants have been in the ground?

I agree with fruitnut, wherever he is it looks dry, I'm betting somewhere out West, California maybe?? they definitely appear to need more water. I use a drip set up on my fruit trees here in Florida. Each tree is ringed with 5, 1/2 GPH drippers. If we don't get at least an inch a rain a week, which is pretty normal for us this time of year, I run mine.

Have you checked your soil pH? It could be soil pH that is out of range for your plants to absorb nutrients from the soil.

Very likely CA. I'd bet there are thousands if not millions of similar looking trees in CA right now with the drought and water restrictions. The plus is that on mature trees of certain species the water deficit can improve fruit quality.

Good guess, we are in Northern California. These trees have been there for some time, some longer than others. For example the Fig has been planted there probably 4 or so years and the others 2-3 years. The couple citrus are no taller than 1-2 feet and barely have any leaves. I could do better with the watering and will but is there anything else I can do to make them grow? Certain soil conditioner or fertilizer, etc? I will also check pH as someone suggested (need to get tester). As to comment about wanting instant gratification, these have been planted for several years and I realize they don't grow 12 feet per year.

Also, it appears that drip irrigation is right at the trunk. Instead, move the drip point a foot or so from the trunk - you want the roots to work their way out away from the trunk rather than trying to stay bunched up close to the trunk. That is particularly important if you have really good draining soil.

I'd suggest mulch as well as more water. The ground looks hard & bare, how would roots expand into it? They are confined to the tiny drip zone.... we've also had drought past few years. If the rains come back this winter I think you'll see improved growth in the spring.

I will definitely water more (with hose to ensure more coverage), create a better "basin" so the water can soak and add mulch. I have also ordered one of those pH meters just to check. Even though it looks so dry that weeds don't grow, I weeded the area and hence those are the remnants of the dried grasses/weeds I pulled. There were many weeds all around the trees and I didn't realize they can affect the growth of the trees. Can anyone recommend a particular fertilizer? I have used the kind with seaweeds (MaxSea), the spikes and liquid 10/10/10. Thank you to all that have provided advice!

I use HastaGro from Medina (Hondo, TX) with Superthrive, but you being in California, you should be able to find a great selection of fertilizers. I use half of what's recommended on the label, unless the plants show me they need more.

I think putting a good layer of organic compost and then on top of that a thick layer of cedar mulch will really make a huge difference. I'd spread it out 3 ft or more from trunk. If it's hot there like it is here then be careful watering too much, or you end of steaming the plants. So the mulch will help cool and hold moisture around the roots, allowing you to cut back on watering so much, this causes the root zone to dry out a bit in a cooler soil and search for moisture. I had put off mulching this summer, but when I did it mid July, wow! what a difference. Instead of watering everyday in 100 degree weather, now it's once a week.

I am curious, how wide and deep were your holes upon planting?

Merle, thank you for your recommendations on the fertilizer and mulch. I am intrigued by the Superthrive. It sounds too good to be true but reviews seems to support it's benefits. I still need to get some mulch and compost. I assume this is not same mulch as the kind you use for decoration correct? I will ask at HD. Today I gave the trees some fish fertilizer since I already had it so hopefully it helps. The HastaGro sounds good too and next time I'm at HD I will see what they carry.

To answer tim45z10 question, I made holes about double size of the pots they came in.

Out of the top-ten things a new tree needs (other than mulch), the top eight or nine are water.

What's going on playboy! I prefer good old regular shredded cedar mulch. Any mulch will do, but I use cedar mulch due to it's ability to deter insects, it's cheap, and it last longer than hardwood or nugget mulch. Plus it smells wonderful too.

I have fire ants constantly at the base of all my plants I water. They're thirsty too, but I noticed when I use cedar mulch, the fire ants move somewhere else and no more bites in the night when I water. We also have crazy ants and they're taking over the fire ants turf. I don't kill fire ants, because they help me out with all the other insects, especially termites, locust and leaf sucking insects. Everyone here thinks I'm crazy, but I've seen it happen over and over again, so me and the fire ants have a nice "mutualism" relationship going on here. Lol

The plants are ALL planted in little pits filled with peat moss. So they're improperly planted and still have their shipping stakes tightly wrapped around the stem. Those little twist ties can kill a young tree.

Those pits are filling with water. The surrounding soils looks to me like it does not drain at all. Take a pitch fork to the surrounding soil and break it at least three feet in diameter.

Hi! I'm a beginner but I'm going to give advice as if I know what I'm doing because your soil and weeds look just like mine (dry clay and most of the weeds being dead from the drought). I'm in southern CA, not northern, but it seems like we've probably got similar conditions. And my first attempt at an orchard failed miserably, so maybe I can tell you what I learned that I did wrong that time. You are doing better than I did - my trees looked like yours for the first year, but the second year they died. This year I replanted and it has already gone much better.

First, here's something you've done right: Drip irrigation. Here in CA, if you want your trees to live, keep them on drip.

Folks who said you need more mulch are right. Mulch was the biggest thing that made the difference between my first attempt at an orchard (that looked like yours the first year and died the second) and the second attempt (that I planted this year in late may/early june and the trees have more than doubled in size).

Here's what I'd do.

Take the bottom stake ties off your trees before you mulch so you do not forget they're there. Then move the drip emitters farther from the trunk as others have suggested, you do not want the trunk to rot once there is mulch keeping the water in. Also the roots will have an easier time getting into the soil outside the hole you dug if that soil starts getting some water in it. Then mulch. Mulch a lot. As soon as the trees start showing new growth loosen or pull off the other stake ties so you don't choke the life out of the tree.

It sounds like you've got some good fertilizer recommendations. I use organic fruit tree fertilizer - whatever Home Depot has. One thing I don't think people have mentioned is be sure to water your fertilizer in. That is one thing with drip is that it might not hit the fertilizer so the fertilizer could sit on top of the soil and not do any good to the tree. It might be a good idea to apply some fertilizer and water it in just before applying the mulch.

Thanks to everyone for the additional info. Special thanks to Merle for his additional advice. I definitely have to get the mulch! Silly question, but does Home Depot sell that kind of mulch (cedar)? I know they sell the decorative mulch but it seems like those are too big pieces. It would be helpful to see a photo if someone can show it.

Good advice about the ties too, never thought of that. The pitchfork tip is good idea too. I was trying to figure out how to add some holes without having to use a shovel, etc. I used a long screwdriver but pitchfork would be a lot easier so the water drains a little better and gets down to the roots.

Steph, thanks for the tips. Even though you are a beginner, you have definitely learned a lot and sounds like you are on your way to having a nice orchard!

I don't think they do sell cedar mulch, only pine. At least here. Yours might?

Steph, yeah I checked and the only cedar mulch I found is not available at any nearby stores (in Bay area). What's up with that? Some shortage of Cedar?!

You can use pine mulch it lasts as long as cedar which is a conifer, like pine. It looks to me the roots do not want to leave the good soil around it, and the roots are probably girdling by now.

The plants might not make it? Do not amend planting hole, native soil only. You can add compost on top like mulch, cover it with pine or cedar bark.

I amend ALL my soil. It's clay and very heavy....lots of nutrients, but cracks in the summer and turns to slime in the winter. We're on the edge of the Palouse (eastern Washington) so we know plants CAN grow, but it takes some work.

Our best answer has been lots of aged (very aged) horse manure. We have horses, so it was an obvious choice, but it works great! I amend all the soil, before I plant. For trees, I would amend the soil in a larger area and plant a little orchard.

By just amending the hole, you only encourage roots to grow in the hole.....so is amending a larger area an option for you?