Question on Sowing Mesembs Seeds
8 years ago
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sowing mesembs
Comments (5)After two weeks the surface should not be allowed to dry out at all. I would keep them completely covered for the first two or three weeks, then start ventilating a little during the day. Spray regularly for the next few weeks, use a dilute fungicide if they seem to be damping off. At this stage they should not be in full sun but you can start getting them used to some sun as well as the open air. They will take on some colour in the sun but the seed leaves will not have patterns. After a couple of months the big species will look a bit like the end of a pencil erasor and they should be able to live in the open with some sun but watch out that you don't overheat them. The soil surface should be dry more often than wet by now but don't let the whole pot dry out. After two or three months you get the first true leaves coming through. Now they should be getting lots of sun and regular water but letting the soil dry out a lot between waterings. The tiny seedlings are still prone to overheating but they need lots of sun. Here is the timeline for a L. lesliei form sown in mid January under lights. Most species are less vigorous than this. 3 weeks 10 weeks, still green 14 weeks, in the sun and coloured 18 weeks, see the soil surface is dry and the true leaves are coming 4 months, you can get tto this stage more quickly but at least they are alive 5 months, little adults but still need regular water 8 months, after this things slow down for winter here and the seedlings will start to grow on an adult timetable with another set of leaves sometime over winter or in spring...See MoreQuestion on sowing seed indoors using starter kit
Comments (7)The main problem with those start kits is that the makers don't clarify how they should be used - which is for germination only. They are not big enough cells for the plants to grow in for any length of time even if you put only one seed in each cell. So once you understand that most everything will have to be transplanted at least once into larger cells/containers you can plant as many seeds of most things into each cell as you want, as will fit and then either transplant them as clumps or separate them into individual containers. As long as each cell pack contains only 1 variety. You never mix varieties in the same 6 pack as they all have different germination times. So first cut the 6 packs apart for easy removal from the tray as they germinate and need to be moved to the lights. Then label each with the variety of plant in it, plant 4-6 seeds in each cell (if you want that many plants) or only 1-2 seeds if you don't want that many, and wait for germination. Once the young seedlings get to be about an inch to inch-and-a-half tall pop out of each cell and pot up. Now all the seeds you mention are normally planted in clumps, not as singles so I would put 5-6 seeds of each into each cell. Given the normal 90% germination rate if all else is done right you should get clumps of 4 plants to transplant. Hope this helps. Dave...See MoreNew mesembs, and lots of questions
Comments (16)Kim - Yes, I water my Fenestraria quite often. Can be a very thirsty plant! If your Pleiospilos has 3 stacks, you can give it good light and wait until the third set is absorbed. I'm no expert on Pleiospilos yet, still working on that. =) I really don't think soil is required for fine rootage with Mesembs. Here are the roots of one of my Cheiridiopsis in gritty: Rika's Lithops photos and descriptions are pretty fantastic. I spent a long time reading every post (currently around her 2012 stuff). Hopefully you'll get to see her approach to growing/learning to grow Mesembs. You can also try straight pumice for a month or two and see how that goes? Sounds like you will be pretty attentive and I doubt you'll kill them! As for repotting, make sure to get all of the old soil off. Soaking/swishing in water helps, as well as a little bit of spray. It's very important to get all the old soil off. Take photos of the roots and things as you unpot and wash them off - always helpful later if you run into trouble later. Rina - Eventually, I need to get a drill bit for pots! So far my drilling adventures are plastic pots only....See Morequestion on sowing seeds for lettuces
Comments (15)" But then didn't you say something about bigger containers making the roots too wet?....so I'm a bit confused how roots would be too wet if they are unable to reach the lower/wetter parts of soil." Sorry for the confusion but it was a simplified attempt to cover what is a somewhat complex issue that takes pages to explain in detail. Think of it this way. We are talking about very inconsistent soil moisture levels and that is a chronic problem in containers. When you water a container all the mix in that container is wet at one time. The bigger the container, the more water-wet mix it contains. Your seedling's roots are like toddlers trying to stay afloat in a full-size swimming pool. Gradually over time that water drains down and forms the water table. Now the plants are toddlers trying to get their feet wet while being held up in the air. Until the next time you water and then they are struggling again. The plants go back and forth between too much water and not enough water. Hope that helps rather than make it even more confusing. Dave PS: "My sense however is that many/most people seem to start such seedlings indoors with lights/heating mats and/or they sow them outdoors but using a cold frame, or plastic covers, etc... basically that people do special things to give them a jump start." That is the statement I was addressing. Sure some circumstances may encourage starting lettuces indoors but that "many/most" do it or that it is somehow required? I don't think so....See More- 8 years ago
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