Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

Leanna L, I agree with Joseph. If need be, find a large slab warehouse and take a look at their leathered granite slabs. Leathered and Honed is a personal choice and if you find yourself very attracted to all the other leathered slabs (despite color differences) then that might be your preference. I have Leathered sienna Bordeaux, which was polished when I first saw it, so had it leathered. I do love the leathered look for a few reasons: I feel it's easier to care for; no issues with even wet dough sticking in the crannies; it's quite beautiful in my eyes and I still can't stop touching it : ) I also love that it has a lower sheen, no glare from overhead lights or sunlight. But that's my preference. One thing, leathering and honing (honed is smoother, leather shows the lovely crevices and dips and so forth) tend to cause the natural stone to dull. We used an enhancer sealant to bring the colors back (and frankly, with leathered, we actually see more stone detail). One coat is fine, two coasts can darken it beyond the original polished look. To know which you'd want (regular sealant vs. enhancer sealant) simply wipe your stone off with a very damp rag - the resulting look, before the stone dries, will show the depth of color you'll get with an enhancer. Not all enhancers give you a 'wet' look when they dry. To keep a low sheen (as seen below in ours) you leave enhancer sealer on 5 minutes, then buff, buff, and buff some more. And your done : ) For what it's worth, I think Fantasy Brown would be perfect leathered : )

" Would it be better to do a different material on that wall?" Yes. From one messy cook to another, consider solid surface. No grout lines, no sealing, no staining ever, goes with everything.

Heatheron40, very nice. I asked a question about doing a tile countertop in our guest cabin recently as I feel like the look would complement the cabin aesthetic. Also I’m dying to learn to tile and thought it would be a fun place to start as it’s not an everyday space and I could take my time. Most of the responses were against. Basically stating the grout would make me crazy. The guy at the said what you’re saying I think, he said that modern grouts are more resistant to staining and such, and also to go with a tinted grout of some sort. I love your use of pattern to give it interest and intention!