12" Deep Base Cabinets?
sail_away
8 years ago
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Are 12' deep cabinets with inset drs deep enough?
Comments (2)How deep you need the cabinets is your preference. If you want to make sure that your current dishes fit, you should measure the diameter of your plates and the thickness of the cabinet doors you ordered as well as the depth of the cabinets. The thickness of the doors is the inset and that has to be subtracted from the depth of the cabinet to get the true *usable* depth of the cabinet. The cabinet maker suggested that I have cabinets deep enough to fit a 12" plate, even though my current plates are only 11". The cabinets are 13.5" deep with a 3/4" inset (thickness of door). So, theoretically I could fit 12.5" plates if I wanted to. Hope that explanation made sense....See MoreHoly 70s, Batman! Help with condo kitchen layout please!
Comments (46)So. The guys finished up their part yesterday and now it's up to me to do the rest. Their work looks pretty good if you don't look real hard at all the details (which I am going to stop doing in a day or two, I hope, since done is done). These are Applad cabinets from IKEA (semi-gloss white--love them!) and their solid beech butcherblock Numerar counters. The sink is a big honking 16-guage near-zero radius corner Vigo from the O site, faucet from IKEA. The shelf was ripped from one 8' Numerar counter and installed on 10" corner brackets from the hardware store which were screwed into studs every 2 feet. I'd originally gotten some of those posts where you have to drill holes into the shelf edge and slip it onto the posts but they weren't sturdy enough for an 11" deep 1.5" thick solid hardwood shelf that will have cast iron pots on it---so I switched to this method (thanks to my daughter for finding it online!). It is STRONG. The parts that show on the wall under the shelf will be patched and tiled over. The undersides of the shelf were routed out so that the bracket is recessed--will see about patching that over with thin strips cut from leftover butcherblock using a circular saw. They also routed out a channel for the LED tape lights (again, thanks to Yllimuh!) so you can't see the tape unless you crane your neck under there which I do not intend to do ever. LOVE the LEDs. The outlets with the transformers are inside cabinets at the ends and they fished the wire through the wall on the side with no uppers. Still waiting for the appliance people to come back and install the DW and slide-in range, which I hope will happen in the next few days. I paid them for installation months ago but it had to wait until now. I am going to get the IKEA "Bursta" table in the 32" square size (with two pullout leaves which i think make it about 60" long?) and keep it pushed up against the wall most of the time with 2-3 chairs around it. It can be moved into the living room if I ever want to have 4+ people at a sit-down meal. Or just pulled out into the kitchen a bit. It'd be cramped in there but it would only be for rare occasions so it's fine with me. I think I'm going to repaint the walls. They are a very pale gray but I think they'll look better the same color as the ceiling and soffits. There are too many planes in there to have different colors going on, even subtle ones. Oh, also, I skim coated the sand textured walls (except for the vertical parts of the soffits) by rolling on thinned joint compound with a paint roller (!) and squeegeeing it smooth with a Magic Trowel (!!!!). It worked amazingly well and was much easier than the conventional skim coating method! It took only 2 coats. I also bought a drywall sander Shop-vac attachment for $25 on Amazon--WAY worth it to not have to drape the doorways and clean up dust off everything for weeks afterward. It vacuumed literally all the dust as I sanded. I didn't even wear a mask. Amazing. Overhead light only LED lighting only from the other end of the room looking at the opposite side - 24"W fridge goes in the first tall empty space and the end unit is a 24" wide pullout pantry...See MoreCan you stand another kitchen layout?
Comments (14)Interesting ideas so far. I sure understand the conflict over a combined or individual spaces. How about posting your current floor plan? Most suggestions given here end up rejected, of course, but the various eews and weeells, and hmmms they elicit usually seem to end up solidifying preferences. Of the layouts you've been considering, I rather like the third one with the counter running along the window. In addition to more storage, of course, it'd be an interesting way to design that area visually, an alternative to the usual chair backs against wall, and would be fun to decorate. I also like that it pushes the table and chairs forward, helping avoid the usual problem of getting in and out of the corner beyond the counter....See MoreNarrow base cabinets for peninsula
Comments (5)What you will actually have: 15"D Base Cabinets: 30" - 1.5" counter overhang in front - 15"D cabinets - 1" decorative door/end panel = 12.5" seating overhang 12"D Base Cabinets: 30" - 1.5" counter overhang in front - 12"D cabinets - 1" decorative door/end panel = 15.5" seating overhang NOTE: The minimum recommended seating overhangs and linear spacings for short to average people are: Table-height (30" off the finished floor): Overhang...18" Linear space...24" to 30" per seat Counter-height (36" off the finished floor): Overhang...15" Linear space...24" per seat Bar-height (42" off the finished floor): Overhang...12" (but not deep enough for eating meals if it's raised above the counter behind it) Linear space...24" per seat If you go with table-height seating, then you need to add another 3" for the overhang and 3 to 6 inches for the linear space for each seat. If you're both thin, then 24" would probably be sufficient. I suggest you stick with 12" deep base cabinets and install legs and other support. However, if you do have legs, then you no longer have room for 3 people with a 6' wide island. You need room for the legs plus extra room for people to maneuver around the legs. Figure 3" for the legs and another 3" for extra maneuver room. So, you need Leg - 3" Counter overhang over leg -- 1.5" (if the leg is not flush with the counter edge - most I see are not, they're handled like the front of the cabinets. Maneuver room -- 3" Seat 1 -- 24" Seat 2 -- 24" Seat 3 -- 24" Maneuver room on the wall end -- 6" Leg -- 3" (you could probably put this leg against the wall or find another way to support the counter against the wall) 3" + 1.5" + 3" + 24" + 24" + 24" + 6" + 3" = 88.5" (7'4.5") This is just a quick response. What I suggest is that you talk with some professionals about your options. There may very well be other ways to do it that will allow you to keep all 72" clear for three seats. You might try a "call out" to Joseph Corlett, LLC. He's pretty creative! To "call out" to him, start a new thread with his name and a very brief statement of what you need in the Subject. E.g., Joseph C - need help with unusual island config! (If you can fit his full name in the subject, do so. You are limited in your Subject length though.)...See More
sjhockeyfan325
8 years agoWe used wall cabinets to do that. Here's a picture. The cabinets to the left of the stools are 12" deep.
sail_away thanked sjhockeyfan325sail_away
8 years agoBuehl
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
PROThe Kitchen Place
8 years agoIf you plan to have a decorative base trim at the bottom....get the 12" deep bases and ask for flush toekick. Your installers will thank you. (see photo below of base trim on shallow cabinets)
Showplace Cabinetry: Concord Flush Inset Kitchen - Dayton Ohio · More Info
If you plan on doing recessed toekick, then building up the toe can make sense. Just check on the price difference. The labor costs to build the toekick diminishes the savings. Ask your KD!sail_away thanked The Kitchen Placesail_away
8 years ago
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