After reading the latest water retention and movement thread with only 15 replies (I get very intimidated when there are over 100 replies), it seems you are right about a watering problem! I'm going to go out tomorrow and dig int the soil and see what it's like down deep in the containers (1 ft). The neighbors put in a few inches of gravel "for drainage" Luckily I have some ruts out in the field that need to be filled! I'll check out Wheeler Zameroni to replace the soils throughout the winter (already have most of my winter crops planted in lower raised beds that are closer to the house) or maybe I'll just save up some each month to get a couple of yards in the spring. Nancy

Nancy: I saw your post in the container forum, but didn't comment because I thought your main question was about root veggies, which I don't grow. I would jump at the chance to own those raised beds if I could afford the price. They sound wonderful. I think you could probably grow any annual vegetable you want if the potting mix was fast draining and the beds have adequate drainage. It will be more like a container than the average raised bed, which wicks to the ground. You will probably want to avoid using real soil or more than 10-15 percent amendments like composted manure. I would choose a mix that is primarily made up of pine or fir bark. This post was edited by Ohiofem on Tue, Feb 26, 13 at 9:22

I had in-ground garden beds (made from trex) that were invaded by tree roots. I dug out the beds and sifted the soil to get rid of the roots. I then put down cinder blocks, 9 in a 4'x4' garden bed, with their top surface level with the top of the in-ground beds. I then put down two layers of 1/2" cement backerboard which is supported by the top of the cinder blocks and perimeter of the in-ground garden bed. I drilled drain holes about every 12" in the cement backerboard. Now I have a 16" air gap between the new bottom of the garden bed and the old bottom of the in-ground garden bed. I build a raised garden bed perimeter and set it on top of the cement backerboard. I'm hoping the tree roots won't reach up through that airgap into the new garden bed. We'll see... Don't use the Hardie cement backerboard that has grooves to help you break it to size. I tried that first and it broke at some of those grooves. Dug out beds and used thicker double layer of cement backerboard.

i'm in the same boat. i have several beds that have been dug out and refilled with a mix of what was there and a ton of compost. i just add a layer of compost every year, not wanting to dig up any old seeds, and i get better results every year so it must be working. i had much more luck than i thought i would with straw bale gardening for my viney things like squash and pumpkin and other thing like tomatoes and peppers. i did not try flowers but have seen some amazing photos of flowered covered bales, so i know it works with annuals. i was encouraged enough to want to do it again this year, but i am buying my bales the next time the snow melts. it took much longer than i thought to get them ready to plant, longer than directions said, but despite the late start i had decent results. and the best thing is it just breaks down and after a few years you have a nice bed. worth looking into.