Like pdxgal, I've had my fridge and wall ovens next to each other for 20 years with no problem. I, too, don't want to change my electrical service for those appliances, so the new ones will occupy the same positions. That said, you should be sure to e-mail customer service of the company that manufactures your new refrigerator and ask what their policy is regarding ovens and refrigerators next to each other. GE customer service told me it would void the refrigerator warranty. KA customer service told me the warranty would still be in effect, but they recommended 3 inches between the appliances if it was possible. I am going with the KA built-in side-by-side, and I have their answer IN WRITING (love e-mail!) regarding this appliance issue. FYI: When I asked GE customer service by telephone whether their policy was "carved in stone", they said yes. But their own marketing brochures have at least two photographs where their ovens and fridges are right next to each other!

Thanks for your suggestions. I've considered most of the options you all mentioned but didn't want to make my post so long. The original idea was to get a slide in range. I have white appliances and I want to keep white appliances. I do not want stainless. My fridge and dishwasher are less than 2 years old. I won't be replacing them an I want all appliances to match. Induction ranges do not come in white, except Viking, which I considered but I don't like many things about it so it's a no go. So I gave up on the induction and looked for a radiant slide in. I have had a radiant range for 19 years. I like it just fine. The electrolux slide in was my pick, but when I went to buy it, they discontinued it in white just a few weeks ago. There are none left in the country! I liked a JennAir in white (my fridge is a JennAir floating glass white so that range would match perfectly) - yep, discontinued in white. When we originally built our island, I wanted a cooktop in the island and to put double ovens where the range is right now. At the time, that was cost prohibitive so we didn't do it. Now that I'm having such a hard time finding a range I like, my husband wondered if we couldn't do the double ovens where the pantry is and retrofit a cooktop where the range currently is. If we can, I can still go with an induction cooktop and get everything I want. The panty is 24" deep. The installation specs for the JennAir double oven (JJW2830WS) show 24" is necessary. The width is fine too. Matching the cabinets would not be a problem as they are only 3 years old. The "Chinese thermofoil" comment above was kind of uncalled for. We chose those cabinets 3 years ago. I loved white and my husband didn't want painted. They clean nicely and I like them. I didn't know any better back then and if I were to do it over again today, I'd chose Pioneer brand cabinets painted white (our island is Pioneer brand painted navy). But that ship has sailed an we have what we have. Anyway, the poster above who suggested a contrasting cabinet under the cooktop got me thinking that a bit deeper cabinet (so it bump out a bit and maybe has leg/post accents) in the same SW Naval color as my island would be very pretty. As for the electrical someone mentioned, my SIL is an electrical engineer and we just had our electrical box upgraded this past fall. We have plenty of room and installing whatever we need is not a problem. I will not be installing a vent hood. I've never had one in 30 years, and I only cook with electric. I don't really see the point. They are pretty in the reveals I see here on GW, but I don't have grease all over my cabinets and the house is never smelly with fried food. I don't think it's necessary and won't be having one. The point about the granite does make me think. It makes sense that I can't have a piece of granite added with a square hole cut out because my space is only 30" wide. (It would be a 30" cook top (JIC4430XS)). Can we build a frame and have granite strips in the back and front edge of the stove? Would that work? Our granite is blue pearl, so it's quite generic and should be easy to match. I haven't checked with the fabricator yet. We just thought of this last night and wondered if anyone on GW had done this or seen it done. Thanks for your input. Please remember that the above pictures were of the house when we walked through looking to buy it. The kitchen has since been remodeled, although in the same footprint (and we added an 11' island).

I use American Express for all major purchases because they are so good at resolving disputes in favor of the consumer. If you really want to try to get out of the contract, then you should write a nice but firm letter to the company today. Do it today, because some states allow you to rescind a home improvement related contract within a certain time period (it could be 72 hours or less, if your state has such a law). Send it via both fax and certified mail so you have proof of how soon after you ordered the product you canceled it. (The fax guarantees they receive it today, but the formality of certified mail sometimes carries more weight.) I would use language like the following: "Dear _______: As you know from our conversation in your store this morning, I am very concerned that the Kashmir White granite I ordered from your company will be too susceptible to staining to use as kitchen counters. I appreciate that you gave me a sample of sealed Kashmir White to take home to test. I took the sample home and promptly tested it with food samples. Unfortunately, certain food products stained the sample easily; therefore, the product is not suitable for my stated intended use as kitchen counters. As I told you this morning, I would like to cancel the contract for Kashmir White counters and request that you reverse the charge for my $________ deposit. Because I am canceling within 48 hours [change time period if necessary] and before any templating or other work has been performed, I believe you should return my entire deposit." If you have to dispute the charge with Mastercard, the letter and proof of when it was mailed and faxed may help your case. The letter establishes that you promptly notified the merchant that the product would not be suitable for your intended use before the merchant did any work, and you had the slab on reserve for a very short period of time, so the merchant is not harmed by your cancellation. There is no guarantee this will work, but it is what I would do. Good luck.

So, no sink on island, due to plumbing difficulties. MW turned toward fridge could be 24" wide (Sharp 24" MW is ap 21.5" wide, with front the whole width of the base cabinet--think full overlay-type door), or if you have enough space, make the island 6" deeper for a 30" MW. Adding a 6" half wall behind the other cabinets would make it easy to run wiring for an outlet on the other end of the island. You need at least 24" elbow space for each seat, for comfort at counter height, so island needs to be at least few inches wider (72"). I'd make it as wide as space and budget allow. Is the existing sink centered under the window? Does your cabinet line offer a 33" drawer base? If possible, I'd center the sink on the window, put a 33" drawer base to the left and put a 15" trash pull-out to the right of the DW. Trash would normally be under the prep zone, but that's going to the island, so having the trash on the end of the sink run will make it more convenient for all zones. Anyone making a fridge-to-MW foray won't need to enter the cooking aisle to throw away packaging. Even if the sink line-up doesn't change, I'd make the 18" cab a trash pull-out to preserve the wider drawers to the left of the sink. A wide drawer can be divided into storage sections, without losing space that two cabinets would waste--and a 12" drawer base won't have a lot of interior space. Of course, you need to assess your storage needs and cooking style to make a final decision. Info on drawer MW comparisons