i didn't go on a search for colors, but did need to find a 4-gang that had a standard switch in the first position. be aware that if you use a timer, it may not fit in some of these plate covers. i ordered one from kyle designs and my standard leviton timer did not fit through their decora sized hole. they were unwilling to work with me and just kept saying that all of their products are created based on caliper measurements and would not accept my tape-measure measurements (as if all of us have calipers lying around) and said that my timer must be oversized, which leviton says is standard decora size. home depot has some modular plate covers (leviton as well i believe) where you can choose the shapes of the switches you need and click the pieces together. these also did not work with a timer because of the overlap where the modular pieces click together... but it may be an option for you if you only have switches. not sure what colors they have available since i needed white... Here is a link that might be useful: the modular pieces at an online store - i have seen them in home depot too

Get a bathroom fan timer. that is the best way to get maximum air exchange without having a high power fan that sounds like a jet or costs a fortune. I am with commenter Toronto on considering inflow UNLESS you have central heat/ac bathroom, in which case air to replace the exhausted air will freely come in from the register. If you want optimum airflow in addition to fan CFM: a) you also should check your ducting if it is old, and make sure it has no obstructions b) make sure your install well mating fan with your ducting. c) get a fan timer in your switch (about $20 to $25). these can bused to insure that the fan remain on for ten or 15 minutes AFTER the users leave. It is when bather s leave, that the room has the highest relative humidity and water that needs to be evaporated and exhausted. Turning off the fan that that point is the worst thing. My advice. - insure you have register or window you can crack, if not have a cut made across bottom of your bathroom door. - Get/keep moderate fan rated 6 to 8 exchanges per hour - Get a fan timer. 15 minutes of fan after you exit is better than massive exchanges while shower is running. - check any/all bathroom fans once a year for dust. vacuum them out. if you feel low performance maybe occurring check duct and mating of fan TO duct.

What matter most is if your vent is small or large, long or short, flat-wall or corrugated . It's the tube that carries exhaust air outside. Also important is the available air (e.g. door gaps) to allow incoming air to replace the air that gets "exhausted". There is nothing significant between 110 and 80 cfm, for all intents and purposes. Quiet operation is your main goal. The noise one might hear if the fan were turned on prior to installation is not the noise made after installation. All the vent "tube" factors listed above make a difference in terms of whether or not the fan has to push very hard against a lot of air resistance or if it only pushes reasonably hard. Some fans make a lot more noise when conditions are sub-optimal, some don't make a lot more noise. Manufacturers don't compare their products against competitors and publish results, but they could do this if a hundred people asked for it. Real world installations are the thing to compare, not showroom installations where the vent tube only runs a few feet and then blows air back into the same room.

I will wholeheartedly agree with southernroots that 50CFM is not sufficient for your bathroom, but the 200cfm that he suggests is far too much. The first step of the project is to determine exactly what size of fans you need. Properly, the bathroom exhaust fans should produce 4 complete air exchanges per hour so the question then becomes how many cubic feet is four exchanges per hour? The main part of the bathroom is 10'x 12' which is 120sq.ft. Now assuming an 8' ceiling we get 120sq.ft x 8' vertical equals 960cu.ft in the room and we desire four complete exchanges per hour so we need to move 960cu.ft x 4 = 3840cu.ft per hour. We then divide 3840cu.ft/hr by 60min/hr and we get 64cu.ft/min. The shower is 4' x 5' so it is 20sq.ft and again assuming an 8ft ceiling we get 20sq.ft x 8' = 160cu.ft in the room. Four air exchanges per hour would then be 160cu.ft x 4 = 640cu.ft/hr. Now dividing 640cu.ft/hr by 60min.hr = 10cfm. For peak efficiency I would put a separate light/fan unit in each room sized to the nearest nominal trade size which is equal too or greater than the theoretical size from the computations. By example, you already know that 50cfm is not sufficient, but I doubt if you will find a 64cfm fan. The solution would be to then select a 75cm fan. Actually the slight increase would work to your advantage because it allows for line resistance of the ductwork, but to just arbitrarily install a 100cuft fan would result in way too much air flow, and keep in mind that you are paying to operate your HVAC system to condition all that excess air. Now, while you can run the duct up and out through the roof, I would prefer to run it horizontal to the nearest external wall and install a wall vent to the outside. That not only reduces the line friction loss in the duct work, it totally eliminates the possibiity of a roof leak where the line passes through the roof. Taking this to the next level, keep in mind that you are venting warm moisture laden air and as it passes through the ductwork it will cool and condensate moisture in the duct. For my house, I made the ducts with PVC pipe and installed them horizontal with a 1/4" per foot downward pitch to the wall outlet. In that manner I do not have to worry about metal ducting rusting or water pooling between the folds of flex duct.