Most Powerful Bathroom Exhaust Fan
wolfgang80
12 years ago
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TonySak
12 years agoTim
12 years agoRelated Discussions
70-110 exhaust fan for 40 sq ft bathroom
Comments (16)hey pup - I'm plenty versed in the building arena and am still in the game as opposed to siting on the bench armchair quarterbacking. "I most assuredly CAN make that statement " yes - but you'd be making an inaccurate one! "Once you know the CFM you then determine the lenght of run from the fan to the point of discharge and use the friction head loss tables to determine the correct size of duct. " Since you're so versed on this - how long is essdana's duct run? Did his/her builder installer use 3" or 4" ducting? What's the static pressure difference between 3" and 4" duct? What was it made from? What's the flow loss when using corrugated aluminum duct vs. smoothwall PVC? Do you need a slide rule for the math calculations ? Are there any elbows/bends in the duct run? How many ? It's clear you know how to do this: "Once you know the CFM you then determine the lenght of run from the fan to the point of discharge and use the friction head loss tables to determine the correct size of duct. " But, since you don't know the sizing, material , length and pressure loss of essdana's duct work install - you can't ACCURATELY say that the 40 CFM fan in question will overcome the static pressure of his/her duct work. Sure it works on paper with your slick tables - but the real world presents some curveballs. You certain learned this on your journey to Master status. And, you're not going to get to use anything but 4" duct for this fan anyway 3" if your builder /customer is cheap. So overcoming high static pressure with a clever oversized duct plan isn't really an option. Another thing - This fan we are talking about - 40CFM, is that a max. rating, average? At what static pressure was that measurement taken or is that maximum free air movement? If it was rated at free air , the second you add duct work (any kind) that rating is going to drop on a pretty steep curve as 40 CFM fans tend not to be high quality and accurately rated from the get go. So - simply going rule of thumb based on your "experience" using a few tables can get you into trouble in a real bathroom. That's my point. Your 40 CFM "idea" sized fan is great in your air conditioned office. What if the maker fudged' their rating and the thing only moves 30cfm when a duct is attached? What if two 90 deg bend are added into the duct run? How much restriction does the roof cap add to the system? How many room air changes is that 40cfm fan really going to produce at essdana's house? You can't answer that- you can only answer what the theoretical maximum would be based on your beloved tables and some educated guesses based on your experience. They are still guesses, and are no better than my guesses - so settle down boy....See Moreinstalling coundown timer for bathroom exhaust fan
Comments (3)"...there are only 2 black wires, and 1 copper wire (ground). The instructions say i have to hook up the white wire to a set of white wires in the junction box. but there are no white wires in the junction box." I'm a bit confused by this description. Did you mean that there are 2 black wires, 1 copper wire and 1 white wire?. That's what would make sense. Assuming that's the case, here's the deal: There are a couple of ways switches can be wired. One way is that the power feed first enters the switch box with both a hot (black) and neutral (white). The neutral is simply passed on to the fixture (i.e., the incoming white is connected to the outgoing white). The incoming hot connects to the switch and an outgoing hot goes to the fixture. (So, two wires in, two wire out, right?) A second way is that the power feed goes first to the fixture. The white (neutral) connects directly to the fixture and the incoming hot goes to switch along with what we'll call a "return" wire. This is known as a "switch loop" and it has no neutral. One wire is "always hot" (the feed) and the other is the "switched hot" because it only gets power when the switch is on. [There are a couple of other ways to wire a switch, but these two are the most common.] A simple switch does not consume power itself. It only connects the two wires then it is closed ("on") and disconnects the two when it is open ("off"). The problem arises when a more complicated switch needs power for something. For example, a switch with a pilot light or night light consumes power itself and so it needs a neutral. Ditto with some timers. You cannot wire a switch that is itself a power consumer to a simple switch loop, which is apparently what you have. So, there are two possible solutions. First is to do some rewiring to bring a neutral into the box. One way to do this is replace the switch loop cable (two wires) with a three-wire cable, one of which will connect to the neutral at the fixture. Since you're not familiar with wiring, I won't elaborate on how to do this, or other ways this can be accomplished. You'd probably need an electrician. A second possible solution is to find an old-fashion mechanical timer that doesn't use electrical power itself. (It's basically a switch with a "wind up" spring.) This assumes, of course, that your intended purpose is just to let the fan run for a while and then switch off by itself. If your objectives are more sophisticated than that, I'm afraid you're SOL. Good luck....See MoreBathroom exhaust fan.
Comments (1)The general estimate for requirements is that if you have an 8 foot ceiling the fan CFM should be about the same as the floor square footage, so you need about 100 CFM. The 110-120 CFM Panasonic is more than adequate air flow for that size bathroom (some of the cheap fans are only 60-70 CFM). And 12-14 feet of ducting should not be a problem if you you use hard metal 4" duct for the entire run - not the cheap flexible plastic or shiny tape-looking ducting. The convoluted surface on flexible ducting reduces air flow significantly over a long run of pipe. Bruce...See MoreNeed lighting and exhaust fan advice in small bathroom
Comments (1)There are many reasonable combination light/fans (although best are the ones where the two functions can be put on separate switches). I'd still want a better source of light over the sink than a single can, so wait for the measurement and get the right size of bar....See Morejakkom
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