Rheem vs Bradford White Hot water heater
Dan Trachtman
8 years ago
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8 years agoRelated Discussions
Rheem Gas Water heater - reviews?
Comments (8)blakeas, "I thought I would have replumb some lines and get a bigger incoming gas line size to go tankless? my home was built in 1986 and is on a slab....." None of that is a given. The first thing I would do is see if you could install a tankless with a short vent (or even an exterior install). A through-the-wall vent is the least expensive. A two-story through-the-roof installation is the most expensive. The second thing I would do is to speak to your gas supplier. I don't know what size tankless you would need, but the largest is usually around 200k BTU. Talk to your supplier and tell them what you want to do-- they will need to know the BTU input of all of the other gas appliances-- particularly the furnace. They can probably estimate the stove and dryer if those are gas. They should be able to tell you if the gas service to your home will supply your needs. Once you have that information you can make a reasonable decision. A long flue or needing a new gas service is a deal killer. Do you know how many hot water faucets you need to supply at the same time? Also, do you have any unusual demands, such as multi-head showers? Lastly, what part of the country do you live in? How cold is it in the winter?...See MoreBradford White vs GE 40 Gal Electric Hot Water Heater
Comments (5)All though there are some very high end exceptions, as a rule there really isn't a hill of beans difference between electric water heaters. Basically they have a steel pressure vessel which is usually line with a baked on powder coat ceramic finish which is advertised as "glass lined" Surround that they have an insulation blanket. Some have a fiberglass blanket but most today have a rigid foam insulation material. That is all encapsulated in a thin sheet metal sheel. They nearly all have 4500watt 240v electric heating elements that are made by a third party supplier and with some rare exception, the heating elements are interchangable between brands of water heaters. They have an upper thermostat which switches between the upper heating element and the lower element and it also has a built in overload control (reset button). The lower thermostat only turns the element on or off. In fact, you can buy a universal rebuild kit at Home Depot which has both heating elements and both T/stats for $31.27. They may or may not come with a T&P valve. If you need a T&P valve it is a universal part made by Watts Corp. that fits into a 3/4" port in the top of the tank. Some also come with the dielectric nipples packed with the water heater. Many of them are actually made on the same production line and they don't get a manufactures name until they reach the final labeling and packaging dept....See MoreBradford White Defender Water Heaters?
Comments (3)What did you wish to know or hear? I can tell you that Defender means it has a federally required safety system that acts as a flame arrester. No big deal there, since all heaters 50 gallon and under require this. .58 Energy factor is the lowest in the industry and manufactured today. Your heater is the basic plumber version of an atmospheric vented, 50 gallon water heater that shall perform as spec sheets go and last as long as any other would under your installed conditions. ItÂs not high recovery, long life, longest warranty, or best insulated, itÂs just a quality hot water heater for the money spent....See MoreElectric water heater only stores 10 min of hot water
Comments (9)From what you write, you may know this already, but an electric WH is wired so that the top thermostat is the one that takes the lead, heating the top half of the tank for a quick recovery. Any time the top water is below its setpoint, the top element is on and the bottom one is not. The top thermostat is actually a double-throw switch. Once the top thermostat is satisfied, you have half a tank of hot water. The top thermo reroutes the incoming power from the top element to the bottom thermostat. The bottom thermostat then hammers the bottom element until it's satisfied, then it shuts off. Now you have a full tank of hot water. This allows you to have 2 high power (4500 Watt or whatever) elements but a WH that never uses more than 4500 Watts. It sounds like your tests seemed to show the elements and thermostats working right. Now you need to actually monitor what the upper and lower elements are doing while the tank is in operation. This requires working with hazardous voltages, so while I don't want to offend you by suggesting anything, I have to say right here that if you don't know electricity and electrical safety by heart, you should turn this over to a qualified service technician. That warning out of the way, this is pretty easy to test with the access panels off,; insulation peeled back; and neon test light, DMM, or Wiggy at the ready. For something like this I'd probably connect a test light to each element with insulated clip leads, so I could watch the transition from top to bottom element happen (or not happen). My guess: you'll find that the top thermostat's contact that closes on temp rise, the one which transfers power to the bottom element, is not closing properly or consistently., Another possibility is that although the bottom element measures the right resistance for 4500-5000 Watt WH, and the top thermo is working right, the wiring between top and bottom elements has failed. Probably close to 50 years ago, I rewired a WH on which that had happened. Maybe the wire that failed had been nicked when it was pulled in at the factory or something, but for whatever reason, it had burned in two about 1/3 of the way from top port to bottom port. Let us know how you make out with this....See MoreUser
8 years agoDan Trachtman
8 years agoUser
8 years agoDan Trachtman
8 years agogail.katz
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