I have just a few seeds, selfed, from this nice plant, and I would like to trade for cybister seeds (or seedlings) or something unusual. I floated a few of these on watr, and they're already showing some root growth. Some of the seeds look quite viable, but don't have much of a 'paper coat' for some reason...they may not float on water. I should have more seeds from other plants in the next month or so. --Rick

soultan - It turned out to be a wild fern. It has these amazingly tiny leaves that look just like the full grown thing. It's frustrating that none of the seeds are growing. I guess with the next pod I just got, I could try the water floating thing.

I floated some old seeds in warm water a few weeks ago.I have roots forming. Don't know what method work better, but this one let's me see what is going on.Pretty cool! Theresa Here's an excerpt from the amaryllis forum. "CALIFORNIA METHOD OF GERMINATING AMARYLLIS SEED" Select a clear glass container with as much surface available as possible. Fill 2/3 with water. Begin with very warm, but not hot, water. Float each amaryllis seed on the surface, either side up. They should not touch, but they may drift to touching and there's no real harm done. Put the container in a place with strong light but not in direct sun. The non-viable seed will sink to the bottom and may be removed. After a few days, each viable seed will put down a white root. When the root is a half-inch or so long, prepare pots with your choice of potting mix. You may make a community pot with several seeds in it, or prepare one pot for one seed. I prefer the latter because you do not have to transplant again nearly as soon. Poke a hole in the potting mix and gently put the white root into the mix, leaving the seed flat on the surface. Place mix around root. Water gently. Place flats with pots in strong light, but not yet sunlight. In a few days you will see a grasslike blade arising from each leaf. Gradually move pots into stronger light. Ultimately, place the pots in the strongest light available, but only early morning or late afternoon sun. The amaryllis will form tiny bulbs that increase as time goes on. A weak fertilizer (Peters 20-20-20 is fine, but diluted from usual strength) may be given every 10 days or two weeks. Keep the amaryllis growing right through the winter. They do not need to go dormant until they have a rather large bulb. Sometimes a bloom can occur in as little as 18 months, but more normally, blooms occur from 18 months to 3 years. You need move the small amaryllis into larger pots only when they really get potbound. Even then moving them into a four-inch pot will suffice for several years. If the seed are good when you begin, there will be nearly 100% germination with this method. If you keep them moist, but not wet, they will continue to grow and thrive during the crucial first few months. Drying out is not good for the very young plants. They may also be grown successfully under fluorescent lights for the first year or so. This method floats seed until the root is developing and some folks will float till leaves are growing. Some just soak overnight then plant. One item I have always been told is that the seeds viability is short and the sooner planted the higher the germination. Store in the fridge if you need to hold them for any length of time. The Clemson link under the Slicing Bulbs topic will help with ideas also plus it gives recommended fertilizer rates for the babies.

WHERE are you located that you can put these in your flower beds? I have some seedlings...about 30 of them. I did not artifically pollinate my amaryllis...it just had the seed pod swell and when it was ready to drop I opened it and found the seeds. I need to find out how to handle these little ones. They are in little pots 1 or 2 to a pot. About 2 inches tall. Any advice??? I live near Pittsburgh...so they cannot be outside all winter.