Rina,

i think I want it to stay looking in like a little tree. Kinda going for a bonsai look but don't know how to get it there. I decided to prune because just the branches were growing, and dropping old leaves between the main trunk and all the new growth. I didn't like that space. I'd like that main trunk to get thicker and taller, an the growth up top to remain compact. Does that make sense?

I have problem with a proper 'vision'; it sounds easy but it isn't.

Easier to look at photos of other ppl :) I was wondering why did you cut that branch in 'middle of nowhere' - hope you don't mind me saying it and again: I am not expert at this! You must have some idea, so I wonder what it is.

I have very similar looking plant and it also has 3 branches. It is hard to decide to prune or not either one of them...Rina

I love the look of your plants, Deva. I call it 'the chunky look' when I see it. I have some very old trees which I grew that way - I don't care whether they are 'purist' bonsai or not, I just know I like them. And those old pots are well worth the money. Our local art shop is selling little ones you can paint yourself, and they're great, but they don't 'ring' like the old ones - you know that ringing sound old terracotta makes? Yours look like the real thing.

Thoughts I have to offer are: The bracket(s) should be facing inward. ( Difficult to tell by pic and they may be already) as it would be closer to the deck in the event of falling than the ground if elevated.

Gollum 'lady fingers' AKA 'skinny fingers' Consider as an option over time twist off a few of the lower leaves in pairs from bottom to top allow each " twisted off pair to heal over for a few weeks ( three four week intervals) before twisting off the next higher pair

It'll allow for the more open look of that area that you want to see more of. It'll also helps thicken the closest branch Vs cutting the top part. More commonly top cuts would educe( allow )new fresh bottom growth that may fill in the thickness you may want to see.

Deva, LOVE those mini terra cotta pots! My garden center sells them at $4.59 a pop for the 2-3inch sizes $2.49 for the 1.5inch ones.. super expensive! but I like the size.. Maybe it's time for me to go thrift store shopping..

Rine, I cut the gollumn where I did thinking about how the new growth will come in. I thought that would be a nice new area for two fresh branches to come in.

Marguerite, they are definitely the real thing. And I am surely going back for more.

Nomen - I am not sure I understand what you are talking about. I've never done that before, and I am going for a fuller look, I dont really want the open look, at least not yet. But you say it will thicken the branch? Can you tell me more about this?

Bernard - if you want some I will send them to you for cost plus shipping. I am going to go back and see how many I can get. I am thinking about 20 would be good.

Thanks everyone!

Deva

Deva

There are some branches growing on the one you cut, most facing 'inside' - even if you want fuller look, branches growing inwards will probably interfere with each other, there is really not enough space for them.

Again, I am not expert at all, just remember reading: ...prune off branches facing inwards and/or ones that may be crossing each other....

And it is hard to tell from just 2 dimensional pic. Are 2 branches opposite each other on each side of plant?

The soil line trunk will take time

A pic demo that helps speed thicker base line trunks up

Slightly over potted in a 10 inch oval clay pot that is being used for room to manipulate the workings

this plan is to helps speed it up to be thicker it doesn't make it faster to thicker/wider but does very good at preventing bottom soil line foliage growth from developing

branches that commonly get hung up in the works will often happen but to remove by hard cutting also removes from the over all top canopy of a desired look and often initiates lower growth than often takes a-lot longer to be part of a disired top canopy

Pic demo of a shorter thinner crossing branch that adds to the canopy with explaining

the red arrows show where I had removed a pair of leaves lower red area was the first pair of leaves removed two months ago it's callused over and left a very slightly thicker branch that's still crossing

Just as the right side branch is also crossing several pairs of leaves had been hand twisted off over the past year I tend to rotate this area away from brighter light more often when sun is stronger and toward the less brighter sun when sun provides less brightness

Intentions: For the base line of trunk is to avoid base line growth by covering the trunk for minimal to no sun exposure saving eons of time for lower growth to be part of the top canopy, while establishing inner & thinner crossing branches to thicken wider and accept wiring for direction.

Your pot size is right size to do a few very nice things with it but as your planing may be different than what I am doing.

Other comments as feed back:

There is a-lot more in two dimensions than what meets the eye Train your eyes to look in not at.

Often a sketch or a simple stick drawing of what you want others to see three years from now is also helpful as a guide for you. It doesn't have to be any formal artist drawing just do it, pick up a pencil and stick man draw two or more sides of it's current branches with out foliage now and what you would like others to see for branches three years from now

Lower the expectations they don't grow fast

Ok. I see what y'all are talking about now. The branch that looks like it's going inside is just at an angle. Not fully inwards. But I think I will try what you are talking about. I'll need to get some more mix in the pot to do what your saying.

And yes. It is a slow grower! It'll be interesting to see what it does now that I know about these new methods! Thank you!

There is a nursery by my house, they have clay pots as small as one inch for 39cents.

Rob

I actually found some small pots yesterday at Hobby Lobby. A set of them for ~$5. Cheaper than $1 each