Hoyer Lifts - need hard surface to put over carpet.
11 years ago
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Best Pathway/Sidewalk Material for Hard, Uneven Surfaces
Comments (5)If those big roots are lifting the sidewalk next to the house, they are on their way to the house. Most trees can sustain damage to the odd root but some don't take well to it at all and damage to several roots is likely not a good idea - especially for a large tree near a house, since roots function in part to keep trees upright. Learning what kind of tree it is will help you determine not only how it is likely to respond to root cutting but also what its roots (and the rest of it) are likely to do in the future. One thing I have done around tree roots is to use paving stones, laying them around and between the tree roots. But this has only been for a back pathway to the alley; for a front sidewalk used by guests or the mail carrier, this is not good enough. Bottom line is that if a tree is causing trouble around structures, you want to think about the long term viability of this tree in this location before doing contortions to adapt to the tree. You might put thousands into a new sidewalk only to find that the tree is removed within five years for its other incursions as it grows... canopy, other root problems, etc. KarinL...See MoreCarpet removal--need lots of encouragement!!!
Comments (14)Thanks, all! I've been using 'paint thinner' (with mineral spirits) and steel wool after dry scraping as much as I can with a putty knife. My husband ran out and got some actual 'mineral spirits' today and it cuts the cloudiness best after scrubbing with the paint thinner and steel wool. I'll check the hardware stores in town for the carpet adhesive solvent, and I know we bought a floor scraper when we first got the house so it's around here somewhere... Johnnari, good idea about checking the floor for ghosts! I haven't got to the part by the sides of the fireplace yet, but I did find a patched area at the right side of the archway (in the second photo above) that indicated the wide arch seen now was originally a standard-sized doorway at some point. The room was constructed in two separate remodels starting in 1926, and it has one exterior door to the alley. One of the previous owners rented out rooms and this was likely one of them. There was another entry from the adjacent hallway to the small closet in the room. That entry is now a wall in the hall linen closet. The only way we knew about it was that the room's small closet had two ceiling light fixtures! The room has undergone some hard to interpret changes, but I'm definitely curious now to see if there is a footprint from cabinets flanking the fireplace. The pink on the fireplace is a *smidge* more tolerable now that the green carpeting is going!...See MoreYes or no --- putting a metal roof over one layer shingles
Comments (11)There is not " a single "correct " way of doing a metal roof but here are a few thoughts for your consideration. I am taking you at your word about being familiar with construction because much depends on your ability to apply experience to which way to go. Be certain the one saying two layers is honest as well as experienced before sighning a contract with him. Most properly installed composition shingles look like 2 layers at drip edge because of starter strips. Can you install metal over one layer of composition? Maybe. The main consideration is wherther the deck and frame will support the extra weight. Then there is the question of how smooth and level surface the shingles afford. Regardless of other underlying material,decking must be capiable of holding screws. 1x deck is strong but usually has many gaps between edges and ends of boards that if a screew gos through,a leak is likly. OSB and plywood are flat and smooth but must be thick enough to prevent flex between rafters. I have installed metal over a few compostions with no problem after several years. On a couple where shingles were aged and deck was strong, we layed tar paper between the shingles and metal. Another had heavy truss framing with questionable decking so we installed 2x4 laths over tar paper making certain to hit rafters with lath fasteners. If your husband is a healthy 70 yo,you might consider hireing laborers to work under his supervision. I agree with Hollysprings about metal not being difficult compared to other construction tasks. A word of warning about roof tearoff. Think twice about putting old shingles in anything without dump. The shingles interlace and make the intire load act as a single blob that resists shoveling off. If you use a non-dumping truck or trailer, lay a cross tie or similar on floor at front with heavy chain on it. If bed is more than 8 feet long, put another drag half way to back and leave enough chain slack between the drags to alow first to move a few feet and pull some material off before chain tightens on other drag. In farm and ranch country you may find people who have installed metal as part of thier farm work. A farmer or rancher who has built thier own barns might welcome extra or off season work. If that sounds interesting,in addition to other means of asking,check out the people on "Yesterday's tractor forums". The board you want is "tractor talk" . If you go with diy ,you can buy or rent the specialized cutters. If your husband decides to supervise labor and isn't comfortable on a ladder and/or walking on the roof,rent a lift to alow him safly going to roof level as well as saving time lifting materials....See MoreDual question -- removing adhesive on VCT, &/or adding a surface over?
Comments (0)Down in the basement, several years ago, I had carpet that needed to be pulled out d/t water penetration. It was glued down on what appears to be vinyl composition tiles, which seem to be in pretty good shape ( they must be some 30-50 years old but are well adhered to the cement floor and no chips) except for the glue/carpet residue left on them. How can I remove that without damaging the tiles? I am assuming that adhesive remover will do damage, although I haven't tried it yet. If they clean up well, I may be content with that floor to make it a nicer/usable space for exercise and storage. If they don't prove to be a good surface, what would be the best choice to put over them? Nothing seems very good -- carpet gets musty, raised systems will eat up too much headroom, tile will be expensive and hard to install (and require the VCT to be removed?), vinyl and rubber flooring will trap dampness and grow mold; the manufacturer of a floor coating system said not to use it if there is any chance of dampness; laminate, cork and engineered wood may be damaged by moisture--- although the floor has not gotten wet since I regraded and put the sump in, the walls do get damp & I have to run the dehumidifier to avoid a musty odor. I have left a large cork sample on the floor for nearly a year without it showing a problem, but... there was exposed floor all around it. I would love some advice!...See More- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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