Jaty, our range is installed and it looks lovely. Here's the feedback: * The Pacific Sales installation guys were nice but they weren't equipped with the right tools (a very thin wrench) to properly extend the legs to level the unit. I subsequently called Electrolux who sent servicemen to do it for me. Meanwhile I had borrowed a thin wrench from a friend which these guys used to level it. * The unit must be hardwired so be prepared to do some electrical work if you're replacing a more conventional unit. * We are extremely happy with smooth glide racks, the look of the unit, and its cleanability. * The convection bake settings are not working correctly (rear element doesn't heat up). Electrolux promptly sent out very courteous servicemen but their first two attempts have not been successful. They're coming out again. I'll keep this board updated. (The regular bake setting works so we're not yet hampered.) * The burners are wonderful. No complaints here. They are, however, spaced far apart, so conventional griddles barely fit and are not uniformly warm. There is some dead space in the middle of the griddle. This is true even of the griddle they give for free with the unit. On full blast the flames can peek out from under the griddle towards you, so watch out. * You can get infinite control of the simmer setting by turning the knob between off and ignite. Very useful. * The grates are very heavy. By design, it seems that the inner tine is angled just slightly greater than the outer one, so pots rock ever so slightly. It's really not an annoyance but I don't know if it's a defect or not. * The lack of a temperature gauge takes getting used to. The oven beeps twice once preheat has been achieved, so if you've left the kitchen and missed it, you'll never get positive confirmation. This is probably true of other pro-style ranges too. For the price we paid we think it's a great bargain and we would do it again.

I have a Kobe, too, and one time I took it apart too far to clean it (I was up in the fans). I called Kobe customer service, and they emailed me diagrams showing how to reassemble it. They were great. Try this number 1-855-800-KOBE I don't think the oil tunnels come out on my model. I just run a sponge through them.

IMO the hood is not like a vacuum cleaner, it won't suck the air from the surrounding area. It will just push upward through the ducting and out the smoke/steam plume that hits its bottom. When the effluent leaves the cooking surface, it tends to expand, which means that at the hood height it will reach a zone more than 24" from the back of the stove. A 24" deep hood will barely contain it, a 20" one will let a large amount of the front burner vapor/smoke/grease pass by and deposit on your ceiling. This topic has been discussed before on GW in this forum (Appliances). Just search for the username "kaseki" and you'll be in for hours and hours of reading interesting stuff regarding ventilation :-)

I think I would avoid the phrase "take it out well." One can always configure an exhaust ventilation hood adequate for any cooking configuration, but you might not like its size, aesthetics, or cost. I, for example, have Wolf's largest Pro Island hood over a peninsula. It captures and contains nearly all cooking effluent from the 36-inch induction cooktop and Cooktek induction wok hob mounted side-by-side underneath it, unless I allow a strong transverse draft to flow toward the hood. As noted two years ago above, and in (now seemingly endless) other threads addressing hood requirements, one merely has to make the hood capture area large enough and the flow rate strong enough to successfully remove the cooking plume contents. So, the greatest efficiency issue with islands and peninsulas is that the hood has to be larger front-to-back because there is no wall behind the path from burner to hood entry. It may need to be wider side-to-side to deal with drafts, and the typical lack of cabinets on the sides in these placements. Larger/stronger means more costs acquiring and installing the hood, ducting, silencer, and blower, along with counterpart costs for the components of the make-up air (MUA) system.