small japanese red maple isn't growing
gravyboy77
8 years ago
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gravyboy77
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Japanese maple under red maple?
Comments (8)I don't think you have to move right to questioning his competence. I would check first what assumptions each of you is operating under. If you have given him instructions to produce a certain kind of environment in the yard, shade may be an essential part of that and perhaps he can't produce any other source of shade in the short term and is concerned you'll not be happy with the outcome if there isn't enough shade. Or something. He may also be making some assumptions about how much you want to water your plants. I de-shaded the north side of my house with the removal of a tree and it does get sunny as the sun veers around in the afternoon. New trees are just growing in enough to make an impact 4 years later. If there is a chance you will be removing the big tree at some point within 5 years, the pot is a very good idea for another reason - you'll have to get the little maple out of the way of falling tree parts. They do grow well in pots, especially if the pots are big enough. KarinL...See MoreSugar Maple isn't growing well
Comments (17)You did discover the problem. Many reports have been posted on this web site, which list that a tree often times will survive if planted too deeply, but even though it survives, its growth and development will be stunted. It is good to know that the rootflair is not circling and in good form. When you raise the tree, use a heavy tonged short handled garden fork and pack lots of soil beneath the rootball. Try to do this from one or two sides only, so you will not have to raise the root ball completely out of the soil. Your tree should end up being high enough that the soil level covering the rootball is just under the spot on the trunk where the topmost root of the rootfare is growing out of that trunk. Then once the base soil is compacted enough not to settle more and over time not to let the tree sink too low again; simply dig away enough soil from one side of the root ball so you can use a sharp knife to cut about and inch deep from the top of the rootball to the bottom. After doing that, fill the dirt back in on that side of the rootball. Repeat the digging, cutting, and filling back in process for three more times, until you end up having made 4 cuts evenly space all around the rootball. Finally, pound three 6 feet tall "T" stakes evenly space around the tree's trunk and about 10 to 12 inches away from the trunk. Secure the tree to the stakes with non bark-damaging ties, but keep the ties slack enough for the tree to still be able to sway some during prevailing winds and wind gusts. Check and adjust these ties every month, or before if it can be clearly seen that the tree needs to be adjusted to prevent too much trunk lean and/or too much sway that could make the new roots growing out from the root ball become broken out of the new soil. This breakage might occur from too much root stress if the entire length of the trunk is allowed to trunk whips back and forth with the wind. Be patient with your tree, because many reports describe sugar maples trees as being slow to establish. You will know your tree finally is well established once you begin to see it growing at least a foot each year. If you have continued to adjust the ties by tightening or loosening the slack as the tree indicates is needed; by that time when the tree shows it is well adjusted, then the tree should be able to handle the the removal of ties. After you end up doing that watch the tree, and if it does well then you can also remove the stakes. If not, you will need to retie the tree, but maybe by that time only two or one of the stakes will need to be secured to the tree with ties. If that happens then each month try to increase the slack in the ties a little more each time, until you notice the tree probably no longer needs to be staked....See MoreChoosing a variety of red Japanese maple
Comments (2)Look for 'Shaina' or 'Fireglow'. Both are quite compact, tolerate full sun well (and maintain color) and are relatively easy to find at any nursery that carries a decent selection of Japanese maples. Of the two, my personal choice would lean towards the 'Fireglow' - I like the form and growth habit better. 'Shaina' is a bit too much like a lollipop on a stick for my tastes - too even and regular in shape. And the coloring of Fireglow is gorgeous....See MoreCalling Japanese Maple experts- which reds stay red?
Comments (4)1. Yes, this is true. It is also true that some red leaved cultivars will 'bronze' out in too much sun. Ideally, you will want to site just about any Japanese maple with morning sun/afternoon shade or filtered or dapped all day shade. All red leaved JM's will develop the best leaf color if they get at least a few hours of direct sunlight. 2. I would trust ONLY plants from known reputable growers and retailers of Japanese maples. And even then, there can be tagging or ID errors. Box stores buy in bulk from whatever vendor offers them the best deals. These are not always the most scrupulous of growers and have been known to sell seedling JM's by cultivar names - a HUGE no-no! Box stores also tend to have only the most common cultivars whereas independent garden centers that specialize in JM's will offer a very wide and high quality selection. It is a bit of a case of you get what you pay for :-)) 3. No. Trunk color has little to nothing to do with foliage color. btw, 'Tamukeyama' IS a cultivar. There is just one with that name and ALL Tamukeyama's should look the same....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agogravyboy77
8 years agogravyboy77
8 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)