Moisture barrier on a southern home
Ryan
8 years ago
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Cabot & Rowe
8 years agoRyan
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Do I have a double moisture barrier problem?
Comments (5)Thanks for the answer Bill. The exterior wall Durock was the first piece I put up. It is about 1 1/2" inches under the right window trim, 3" under the sill, and also the trim under the sill. The Durock is screwed under the trims. Trust me, I put that trim up to stay. I could take it down but I am afraid that I will rip it apart - particularly the sill. Do the slits in the insulation have to be distributed uniformily? There is really only one significant tall chase. Maybe I could put a raiser blade on something and work my way partway up. I can definitely get to the chase under the sil without removing the Durock. I also thought of drilling a couple of small holes in the bathroom floor close to the chase, from underneath, and putting a vent in the ceiling of the basement room below. Is it correct to assume that if there is moisture in the chase, that it will not be a problem if there is air exchange? Will air move up and down the chase?...See MoreDo I need a moisture barrier / other layer?
Comments (6)jfcwood - no need to apologize for your bluntness! I'm looking for straightforward answers, so thank you for taking the time to write one. The reason we're going with 5/16" oak is to match the existing hardwood in the house. We want to feather it in with the adjacent dining room so it is continuous, rather than having a transition / threshold. As far as I know, I can't feather in 3/4" tongue-and-groove with 5/16" plank (at least without serious hacking). The 1/2" plywood underlayment was just a matter of making the floor level with the existing floor - I agree with you that it's not "necessary" for any reason other than to make up the correct height. Here's illustrations to hopefully show what I'm trying to express: This last image shows the layers & how they're matched up right now -- the 3/4" Fir underlayment boards are level with the 5/16" finish oak in the next room. I believe the existing hardwood finish floor has a plywood underlayment (indicated above), but only because one piece of flooring that I took out (in removing a closet) had that. I'm not positive that it exists throughout the house, but I believe that it does since little to no renovations have been done since it was built in 1942. The matching/feather-ing in choice was a matter of aesthetics - I want the flooring to be continuous and without a threshold because that is how the rest of the flooring int he house is. It's not a deal breaker, though. If there's a really compelling reason why I should put down 3/4" oak in the kitchen and do a header board or threshold where the kitchen and dining room meet, I would consider that option. So I guess I'm trying to ask - why would you recommend against a 5/16" oak board in this case? Vith - Thanks for your suggestions! A sound dampening layer sounds cool, but given that the room below is just a crawlspace and part of our "machine room", it doesn't seem necessary in this particular case (maybe if this was an upstairs room). We've also got >1" of old diagonal plank subflooring throughout the house, which has done a pretty good job at sound dampening....See MoreAcceptable to hear moisture barrier under flooring?
Comments (32)It depends on what the PAD is made of. Over wood you do NOT want a vapour barrier. Ever. Wood sweats. The droplets the wood releases will HIT the vapour barrier (or closed cell rubber, or whatever is used for vapour barrier) and then DRIP DOWN on to the hardwood. Then it sits...and rots. A breathable carpet pad that is fibre based (like felted mixed fibre pad from recycled blue jeans...etc) will work very well. Sometimes the OLD FINISH on the hardwood will chemically interfere with rubber or rubberized products. The finish on the wood can rub against a rubber carpet pad. But most squeaks come from wood rubbing on metal like nails. It happens. Especially with older homes (30+ year old homes that have dried out = dry wood shrank, the nail holes got bigger and now you have loose boards = squeaking)....See MoreMoisture barrier concrete slab garage conversion needed? alternatives?
Comments (2)I'm not sure who is advising this but it would seem odd. As long as you don't have any visible water problems now, then a vapor barrier over the existing concrete (I just use 4mil plastic) will be fine. You may wish to put down wood sleepers (always PT even with the plastic) and some rigid insulation between below the subfloor....See MoreCabot & Rowe
8 years agoRyan
8 years agoCabot & Rowe
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRyan
8 years agoRyan
8 years agoionized_gw
8 years agoVith
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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