Pictures please, It sounds like the samr problem I have

I think your plant are doing just fine. My trees do the same from time to time. I had a shoot wilt over 180 degrees by the heat of the day and would be straighten up in morning and by mid day over it was again, a complete u-turn. After about 6 weeks of this I had a 4 foot new shoot that has become the main trunk of almost 8 feet tall now

Yes I have seen daily wilting aswell. Only problem is this picture was taken first thing in morning at first light. It was a foggy morning as usual in sonoma county, so in all reality, there was plenty of moisture for the tree to straighten itself up! But, it's still wilting

I don't know, you say the rootballs are extremely small for the tree right? It only makes sense to not let the tree make that ratio even smaller. Rub off all new growth as it forms for a month or two. Let the roots grow. Otherwise I fear dieback.

Pip313, thank u for your input. I have actually just started experiencing small amounts of die back shortly after the new growth begun. The die back have also been occurring on the smaller side branches which have always been very healthy, and then suddenly they turn brown one at a time at the time of the new growth?

Also consider repotting into proper size containers. Chances are your either drying the roots to much while waiting for the other dirt to dry or watering when the roots are dry and over watering the soil with out roots.

Here's the deal... A Meyer needs a root to tree ratio of about 1:4 to prosper and produce fruit. The best way to improve the ratio, when the root ball is too small is to feed it and reduce the size of the tree... don't worry, it won't die, it will grow again. The opposite condition... more root, less tree is just leave it alone and wait.

Johnmerr, thank you. How much of the top growth should I remove if I choose too?

Okay, let's assume you are taking good care of it; and the rootball is actively growing... I would probably reduce the size of the tree by 25-30% and reduce the rate of fertilizer by half. Once you see new growth, you can resume normal fertilization and with a little patience, you should re-establish a better root to tree ratio.

Personally I wouldn't cut anything off that isn't dead. I'd just stop any new growth. I don't like chopping off good strong branches. But I'm not saying that it would be bad to cut it back. It's a personal choice thing.

I am fertilizing much heavier then the manufacturer of foilage pro recommends per fellow members recommendations. I am currently fertilizing once a week at 2 tablespoons per gallon...

Looks like foilage pro recommends 1 teaspoon per gallon per week, considering I'm pushing 2 tablespoons per gallon per week, I guess I'm not giving the roots much reason to grow? I assumed they grew regardless of how much food they got

Look... if you are over fertilizing, the roots have no "incentive" to grow.... if they are finding all the food they need, why grow out to look for more. It's a simple exercise... roots grow in search of food and water; and after the roots grow, the leaves and branches grow. Understand that... there ain't no other explanation... and that's a FACT/

Then why did I just have a HUGE growth spurt that the tree May infact not be able to support?

Plants just do things that can't be explained. Drop back to the recommended level of feed. I poor my solution around the outer edges of dirt in my container and leave the trunk area dry

OK, now everyone has me confused...
I thought that trees needed all the leaves they could get to support good root growth and a healthy root system?
What I am guessing is that at one point the roots were damaged and they are funtioning properly in the way they should take up moisture or temps drop too cool which in my instance is an every day thing with new growth on my trees..If you say the root ball is small. how do you know? Have you looked at them? Do they look healthy?
It could be that they are rotting or need something to support healthy root growth like fertilizer that supports that)

All in proportion. A huge top can't get fed by little roots.

I potted them up to these air pots 2-3 months ago. That was the last time I saw roots. They were very healthy looking. Just very small. If you laid all the roots out flat and you were looking at "tire spokes", from root tip to root tip, I may be looking at a TOTAL of 8-9". And that was just a few roots that stretched out that far. The majority were smaller. They did not have any heat to grow when I first cut them off tree. We went right into fall and winter and I remember reading citrus roots don't grow under 55 deg weather. At last frost, I immediately repotted (no visual growth in terms of roots) into these air pots and am now hoping the roots do ALOT of growing over the summer

I'd say leave them alone and feed them as normally you should according to the instructions on the label, especially as the trees were recently stressed. If the roots were damaged from the leaf stress, you should not be using high dose fertilizer while they are recovering as they will not be able to take it up fast enough so it will remain in the growing media. If the media dries out the salts from the fertilizer will burn the roots. The fertilizer burns when it is dry not when it is liquid. Roots usually grow really well in air pots once the plant has time to adapt to the repot. You might have to make sure you are watering enough as the media probably is drying fast with the airy, fast draining media and air pots, especially in a hot, dry, sunny, windy, climate. Did you soak the media before you planted the tree in it? It takes a while for the bark to be able to absorb water when it is new. You might have to water every day with those conditions and also more often because the bark is new and has not decayed yet to easily absorb and hold the water. You said the trees got stressed and lost their leaves while you were away. They probably were not watered enough as it would be hard to overwater in your mix in an air pot like you are using. Looks like a Rootmaker pot. The trees are probably just now recovering. The tops look healthy green in the pictures, so I think you should just leave them alone and have patience and the roots will grow to match the tops. Citrus trees grow in cycles with the roots, tops and flowers growing at separate times throughout the year. When they look like they are not growing, that is usually when the roots are growing. Be patient, try watering a little more often, and fertilize per directions until the trees get stronger and used to their new growing conditions. The higher dose fertilizer may also be causing them to push new growth too fast with the high level of nitrogen you are giving them resulting in weak growth. Slow it up and let this new growth harden up. Also, if the cutting was taken from a sideways growing branch rather than a verticle growing branch, it's growth will have more of a tendency to grow more horizontally and weepy rather than more upright. Good luck. I think you will have great success in the Rootmaker pots.

Cory