It seems to me the notion of "eradicating" mites is preposterous. The two-spotted mite has lots of hosts and is widespread in every garden. What is normal in most gardens is an equilibrium where you have some two-spotted mites on the roses, some predators eating them, and usually little or no noticeable damage. At times, weather conditions lead to a surge in the TSM population and you have a problem, starting on certain canary-in-the-coalmine varieties that you learn to identify and watch for danger signs. If I bring a potted rose that has been doing fine outside into my sunspace, it will have a catastrophic mite problem within a month unless I spray it with soap or oil frequently. The basic reason is lower relative humidity. The mites were there all the time but not causing a problem. Mite outbreaks are often caused by spraying insecticides which kill the predators of TSM. The use of Merit is known to cause an increase in TSM reproduction apart from the effect on beneficial predators. If an insecticide must be used, spinosad (for caterpillars, thrips, and sawflies) is best from the standpoint of mite control because it spares the predators. Mite outbreaks are favored by high temps, low relative humidity, and lack of rain as well as by use of insecticides. In areas with rainfall, roses planted under eaves are much more susceptible to mites. New potted roses may be susceptible to mites because mite predators were killed by sprays in the greenhouse. I can always find TSM on my roses, but I very rarely have a problem. That's because our weather normally doesn't favor them, and I don't use insecticides.

If they are forming new leaves there is definete hope. You may also want to scrap down well about two inches of the topsoil get rid of it and recap with new soil. At first becuz of shipping and new locations and transplanting any plant will undergo some shock which ALSO may have contributed to your leaf drop along with the insects. I never count a plant "in" so to speak till three years AFTER i get it in the ground. Thats any plant..one year to adjust..one year to lay in some new root system and the third year the charm, hopefully. Hibiscus are beautiful but parasites seem to be a big problem, that and under watering them with folks in warmer or humid climates. Always remove any dead fallen leaves also. I think you will be fine. New growth is always a good sign. Good luck

Mites damage orchids quickly and quietlyoften their presence is not noticed until significant damage has occurred. Mites are visible, but their presence is easily determined by rubbing a white cloth over the area that is damaged. If mites or their eggs are present, a brownish residue will be left on the leaf. This will come off and be visible on the towel. Some spin light webs which are visible on the plant or at the base of the plant. A very good natural remedy is an oil/soap treatment. Dr. Martin Motes recommends using a light oil--such as vegetable oil. Olive oil is very heavy and could potentially damage plants. Using 2 TBS oil/gallon is sufficient, you can add a teaspoon of baking soda for a bit of antifungal. Remember to keep shaking the solution in the container to keep the oil mixed with the water. Spray thoroughly on all sides of the leaves. FOLLOW UP with a soap solution about 7 days later. Using 2 tsp/gallon of Joy or Dawn (dog shampoo is great too) not only does a number on the pests, it helps clean off the oil treatment. I actually follow up with a third treatment in another week with the same soap solution. The soap/oil mixture remedy has been shared in the past, but the University of Florida recently discounted it as the two agents act in direct opposition of each other and essentially decrease the effectiveness of the effort. Just like the TV ads say, the dishsoap is designed to cut grease (oil) in its tracks! :) AOS recommends Malathion, or Volk Oil/Sunspray for scale. Also Knox Out 2 FM or Orthene Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray. Mites are nasty buggers to get control over. If the infestation is confined to one plant, isolate it to prevent spreading--watch for that carefully. Be careful to follow the label on preparations TO THE LETTER to avoid damage to plants. One tip for success is to make sure you do TWO treatments of your selected poison about 7-10 days apart in order to catch newly hatched pests. Submitted by Rhonda Heide

(8b) Complete novice here but totally stuck on making my plumerias happen. Growing indoors only with T5 HO lights. I have 4 rooted plants with leaves and 12 potted cuttings. Should I treat everything including leafless cuttings with neem oil in anticipation of spider mites? Nancy