The two fall-fruiting varieties that should be considered as alternatives to Heritage are Autumn Bliss and Ruby. Autumn Bliss offers larger fruit than Heritage. Autumn Bliss is also much earlier than Heritage, so yields will be much greater in northern areas where much of the Heritage harvest is lost to fall freezes. The large fruit of Ruby justify its trial as an alternative to Heritage. Redwing provided earlier fruit than Heritage, but they were slightly smaller and softer. Summit fruit were very small and this variety was also severely infected by anthracnose during our trial... The standard summer-fruiting varieties for Michigan are Canby (southern areas), Latham and Boyne. Boyne was the most productive in our trial, followed by Algonquin, Reveille and Latham. The varieties showing the most potential as alternatives to Boyne, Canby and Latham were Reveille, Titan, and Algonquin. Reveille was productive and had large flavorful berries. It appeared about as hardy as Candy, so significant winter injury could be expected in more severe regions of Michigan. Titan is suggested for trial primarily because the fruit are so large. Two disadvantages of Titan were that the fruit were quite susceptible to Botrytis rot, and the plants are very susceptible to phytophthora root rot when planted in heavy or poorly drained soils. Algonquin was productive and hardy, but its small berries may limit its value in Michigan. Chilliwack and Tulameen produced high quality fruit but the plants are not sufficiently hardy for Michigan Here is a link that might be useful: Raspberry Variety Testing at MSU

I haven't tried Prok, although I heard it was supposed to be good. I don't grow many American Persimmons. I know that Hachiya is not as cold hardy, I grafted this variety but it didn't survive the winter. There are several less hardy varieties. I have had good success with most varieties I'm growing. Taber was collected from some farm in Florida. It seems to be incompatible when grafted with D. Virginiana. My tree is grafted on Lotus rootstock. I really enjoyed the flavor, it reminded me of Chocolate persimmon with its brown texture and sweet flavor. Bass

I have the mixed dutch irises from either Bluestone Perennials or Brecks. I have had them for 2 or 3 years now. I am in Pittsburgh, PA which is Zone 6. They look like these: http://www.bluestoneperennials.com/b/bp/BIRMI.html

I'm in the same boat. Read my experience: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3841604/my-backyard-planting-experience-part-2-zone-4a-b-quebec-canada For your trees I would consider planting semi or full size trees and keep them small with summer pruning. You want vigor for our short growing seasons and cold winters. I would plant 1 pear, 1 apple, 1 plum + one other (or a 2nd of the same). I have not had plums yet (this year, fingers crossed) so I am not sure what their disease resistance is like. If bad disease I would do a 2nd pear/apple, if not bad I would do a 2nd plum because I love home grown plums more than apples/pears. Then once your trees start getting some good scaffolds graft on 3-4 or even more (I am up to 10+ on some trees) different varieties to each tree. This will take care of cross pollination AND if you pick your varieties right you can spread your harvest from beginning August to Sept/Oct. Also you get say 10-20 lbs of each variety x 4 different varieties over 3-4 months instead of 80 lbs of one variety over 2 weeks. From what I have read here are the varieties I would suggest. Pear rootstock OHxF87: Harvest Queen - early Summer Crisp - early Harrow Sweet - Mid/late Others? Patten, Lucious, Seckel, Julienne, Patten, ect. Plum rootstock Mustang or Myrobalan (on paper Mustang better) Fruit depends if you like Japanese/hybrid (bags of juicy meat) or european (meatier). Can graft both on same tree. Based on how my trees have been growing Superior is the most vigorous so I would probably buy a mustang-superior or myrobalan-superior tree then graft later. Black Ice - hybrid - Early Superior - hyprid - Early Paterson Pride - Mid/late Green Gage - European - Mid Toka - Hybrid - Mid (main pollinator) Petite de la Sour Mont Royal - European - Late? Others: Waneta, Mirabelle, Kahinta, ect. Apple rootstock Bud118 or Antonovka Williams pride - early Pristine - early Crimson Crisp - mid (tasted - awesome) Liberty - mid (tasted - good) Goldrush - late These are all disease resistant. Will still want to bag them though. Others: Redfree, Sweet 16, Ashmeads Kernel, Calville Blanc d'hiver, , Minnesota #447, Zeestar. Blueberries: just don't do well on my heavy clay. Better to plant Titania black currents. Make AWESOME jam/syrups (needs sugar). Blackberries: Don't do well on my heavy clay + cold winter. The canes always die back so never get fruit. Also they send out roots like crazy and grow like weeds, I consider them invasive - do not recommend. Can try Poorman gooseberry - very tasty. For planting your trees, if your ground gets standing water due to the clay try to get a mound say 12-16" high x 5 feet wide and plant your tree in the middle. Buy bare-root not potted. Dig your hole into the clay wide enough to spread out the roots. DO NOT AMEND (add better soil/compost) into the clay hole. Plant so that your graft union is 2-4" ABOVE the ground. If you have 12-16" of soil on top of your clay then the graft union needs to be 2-4" above that level. Cover the mound with some bark mulch to keep weeds down and from drying out but keep around 1 foot clear around your tree to avoid rotting the trunk. Paint your trunks in late fall to avoid sunscald in winter. Wrap trunks to protect from deer/rabbits/mice. Good-luck