do I need to mulch my tomatoes? is it OK that they're growing on grass
rnon99
8 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (262)
BahamaDan Zone 12b Subtropics
8 years agornon99
8 years agoRelated Discussions
tomato blight - ok so what do i do?
Comments (6)If your plants have Late Blight, here is a FAQ from Cornell that should answer some of your questions: http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/Facilities/lihrec/vegpath/lbfaq.pdf The Late Blight that infects tomatoes does not infect cucumbers. Your cukes have something else wrong with them. Unless Late Blight is in the very early stages on a plant, it's not treatable. If there were just a few leaves with very small spots, plus no spots on the stems and a week of hot dry weather ahead, you'd have a chance. If there are more than a few leaves affected, black blotches on multiple stems, and the weather continues to be rainy, you might as well call it a season. All of the treatments that are available for the home gardener to use are preventative. They have to be applied before the foliage becomes infected. Organic sprays are very feeble against a virulent disease like Late Blight, they just aren't very effective. If the plants can't be saved, they should be destroyed immediately to reduce the number of Late Blight spores floating around. Late Blight is an airborne disease -- the spores from your plants can be carried for miles on air currents to infect other peoples' plants and farmers' fields miles away. Double-bag the discarded plants in sealed plastic bags and leave them in the hot sun for a day or two if possible to solarize them, then dispose of them in the trash. Unblemished fruit is safe to eat. You don't need to do anything about the soil except make sure you've cleaned up all the infected tomato and potato plants. The corn meal won't make any difference. Late Blight will infect potato tubers if the spores get washed down through the soil onto the tubers, but it does not travel through a potato or tomato plant to infect the roots from within. It does not live in the soil in zone 6. You can plant tomatoes and potatoes there next year, because the spores cannot survive being frozen and when the soil freezes this winter any spores that are on the soil surface will be killed. Poor drainage may encourage Late Blight by keeping the humidity high around the plants, but rain is a much bigger factor. Late Blight spores germinate and grow on wet foliage and in humid conditions. Keeping the foliage dry will do a lot to keep foliage infections like Late Blight, Early Blight, and Septoria in check....See MoreShould I mulch or bag my grass clippings?
Comments (38)>>You guys are great. Thanks very much. If I put my 3 lb all in the fall, half just before winter, how big a time gap before that for two more feedings to handle the remaining 1.5 lb? A pound of N a month is the maximum under normal circumstances. So if winterization goes around December 1, and given that November tends to be a low growth, low demand month, I'd feed 1 pound of N in early September and 1 pound of N in early October. Skipping any feeding in late October and November isn't a problem. Growth has slowed, the grass isn't particularly demanding, and you don't really need to feed. Regardless of circumstances, a small boost in late May is a good idea. If avoiding fungal issues, use 0.5 pounds of N per thousand square feet. If not, go to the full pound. Roots are tapped of carbohydrates by that time (partially) and trying to restore them for summer. In this case, growth doesn't stop like it does in fall, but it does noticeably slow from spring's high point. Usually that's around Memorial Day, and exact timing isn't important here. Applied organically, all these dates will differ a bit. Generally speaking, most dates back up about three weeks--except winterization, which is done synthetically and doesn't change....See MoreMy New Grass Seed Didn't Grow - what did I do wrong?
Comments (14)flora_uk, I can still see ungerminated seeds delightedinco, I tried the Scotts EZ Seed too - it sometimes worked, and it's very convenient to use (I like the built-in spreader on the smaller containers - the gardening newbies this product is aimed at are not going to own seed spreaders or roto-tillers, don't know what kind of soil or fertilizer to use, and have no idea what 5 lbs. per 400 feet looks like when spread. But it is so expensive for what you get). I bought it only because Scotts used to have $5-off discounts on it. Pennington has a similar product as part of their Smart Seed line that's a bit cheaper (but not much), although I wonder why they claim much longer germination times than the Scotts product. There's also Scotts Patch Master which is cheaper and I haven't used yet. I think I'm going to try just regular seed, and watering more often (a real pain here - there's no outside garden hose faucets, so I either need to use big watering buckets or run a hose from an indoor faucet. I have a 50' coiled garden hose with a sink-faucet adapter at one end and a trigger sprayer at the other for that purpose). I have a bag of Vigoro Starter Fertilizer 20-27-5, and have applied quite a bit of new seeding soil (of several varieties depending on location) since the ground is mostly hard clay. I did my best to loosen it with a metal gardening rake before adding a new layer of topsoil. Any recommendations as to what type of grass I should use? I'm near Washington DC, which means both humid 100°F+ in the summer and subfreezing icy winters. The big-box stores around here seem to favor tall fescoe, which is also what the combination seed/mulch/fertilizer products use in this market. I like the bright green color, how fast it grows, and its tolerance for all sorts of bad weather, but not the thin straight grass blades that get matted down like cheap carpeting when walked on. The second most popular here seems to be the generically-labeled "sun and shade mix". The real nurseries have more variety to choose from but also higher prices. I don't want anything that goes dormant or turns yellow or brown in the winter. The side yard is in heavy shade due to closely-spaced houses and lots of old trees, but the backyard (which I'm more concerned about since that's the main socializing area) gets alot of sunlight. I also hear some people say I shouldn't even try to grow from seed during the hot summer. But I'd like to have a lawn by fall if possible, when I plan to have a new renter. I could plant sod - but it's inconvenient given how thirsty the stuff is when new (given the water situation I mentioned earlier) and hard to transport for someone with a small car and a bad back. Any ideas?...See MoreCan WS grow me enough Flowers so I don't need much mulch?
Comments (23)I agree wholeheartedly with tiffy (and by the way your gardens look wonderful). Mulch serves many purposes in the landscape and one should not overlook its use in this day and age when drought and water restrictions are in the news all the time. If you are lucky enough to live in an area where water is not an issue now or where mother nature is currently supplying you with sufficient moisture so that you don't have to irrigate, that is nice. But with changing weather conditions, you might never know when all that could change. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and your need to apply it to keep your flowers and plants looking good. It decomposes over time to improve the soil structure to help the soil hold onto the moisture it does get. It is readily available by collecting fallen leaves, community giveaways by those cities that collect fallen leaves and then compost them and either give it away or sell it, and often tree trimming companies will give chipped wood away for free (my local utility company gives it away free when they clear limbs from the power lines). I for one would not consider a garden complete without a nice layer of some type of mulch to conserve moisture, improve the soil, and keep weeds down. Too me it would be like going out into public wearing loads of jewelery without any clothes on! LOL...See Morernon99
8 years agornon99
8 years agogoodground
8 years agornon99
8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agornon99
8 years agogoodground
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agornon99
8 years agornon99
8 years agorgreen48
8 years agornon99
8 years agoHumsi
8 years agornon99
8 years agoHumsi
8 years agornon99
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agornon99
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosjetski
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agornon99
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agoPupillaCharites
8 years agoPumpkin (zone 10A)
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agotete_a_tete
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agotete_a_tete
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agornon99
8 years agornon99
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agornon99
8 years agorgreen48
8 years agoSeysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
8 years agotete_a_tete
8 years agotashmoore11
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agoMokinu
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agogarf_gw
8 years agornon99
7 years agornon99
7 years ago
Related Stories
EDIBLE GARDENSSummer Crops: How to Grow Tomatoes
Plant tomato seedlings in spring for one of the best tastes of summer, fresh from your backyard
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESNew Ways to Think About All That Mulch in the Garden
Before you go making a mountain out of a mulch hill, learn the facts about what your plants and soil really want
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESThe Art of Green Mulch
You can design a natural garden that doesn’t rely on covering your soil with wood and bark mulch
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Pick a Mulch — and Why Your Soil Wants It
There's more to topdressing than shredded wood. Learn about mulch types, costs and design considerations here
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARD14 Crazy Places to Grow Edibles
Some Houzzers may lack ground for gardening, but they’re never short on imagination
Full StoryEDIBLE GARDENSHow to Grow Your Own Sweet Summer Crops
This guide will help any gardener get started on growing the freshest warm-season veggies and berries for summer
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARDHow to Grow Vegetables in Containers
Get glorious vegetables and fruits on your patio with a pro’s guidance — including his personal recipe for potting mix
Full StoryLIFEKitchen Traditions: Tomato Season Meets a Family Legacy
Somewhere a Sicilian great-great-grandmother is smiling at a bowl of American-made sauce
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARD6 Things to Know Before You Start Growing Your Own Food
It takes time and practice, but growing edibles in the suburbs or city is possible with smart prep and patience
Full StorySPRING GARDENINGSummer Crops: How to Grow Strawberries
Pluck your own sweet strawberries right from the garden vine for smoothies, salads or eating then and there
Full Story
Peter (6b SE NY)