Help, trying to understand my 23andme tests results.
11 years ago
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- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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Got my soil test results - Need some help/info
Comments (1)I probably wouldn't add all the lime. Your pH is basically right in the middle of the range that Tifway 419 likes to grow in. A little wouldn't hurt, as most rain now a days is acidic, but I would go easy on it. To determine the other amounts you need to convert acres to square feet. There are 43,560 sq. ft/acre. For P, you have 1.42 lbs/2000 sq.ft, and you need 4.6 lbs/2000 sq. ft. So you need to add 3.2 lbs of P to your lawn. Since the superphosphate you bought is 14% available, you need to add 22.85 lbs of it to your lawn. Your K levels are higher than the recommended, so no need to worry about K. Most fertilizers list on the bag what setting you should put your spreader on to properly distribute the product. If this is absent, then divide your fertilizer in half, and do a little trial and error with your spreader setting. Try to err on the side of not applying enough, and do the yard in a north/south direction. Once you do the whole yard, you should have some product left in the spreader. Then add the other half and increase the spreader opening a bit and do the yard in the east/west direction....See MoreHelp with Soil Test Results
Comments (31)Peter, Again, I am disagreeing with you about the need for phosphorus but for the sake of discussion: phosphorus rapidly reacts in soil forming stable compounds that are for the most part unavailable to plants. Over time added phosphorus becomes less and less available although a certain amount of phosphorus is always in solution. As it is removed by plants more P goes into solution and maintains an equilibrium. Note that plants can only utilize the P in solution. Measuring how much P is in solution is not very useful because what really needs to be known is how much is going to be available to plants throughout the season, that is how much P is going to go into solution as the small amount that is available to plants is taken up through the roots. Soil tests try and estimate this by digesting soil is various acid solutions (ÂBray ÂOlsen ÂMehlich etc.). Although these estimates are useful, as I said before they are by no means exact. So what I am saying isnÂt that the 26lbs is wrong and that there is really another 124lbs, what I am saying is that there is probably something like a ton of phosphorus per acre in the soil and the guess that 26lbs is going to be available is just that , a guess and there very well may end up being 200lbs available. Or it could go the other way and there could be less. There are a lot of factors that influence how much P is going to be available including things like pH and michorizal fungi. Fertilizing P in bands or clumps helps with availability because it takes longer for the P to react and become insoluble. So again, I am not disagreeing with you that some P should be added, I am just saying that I wouldnÂt lose any sleep over the results of this soil test. If the pH was 4.5 or 8 or something like that, then I would panic, but of all the things on a soil test you should take with a grain of salt, the P numbers are at the top of the list....See MoreUnderstanding soil testing results
Comments (0)For past 5 years, I've only used Espoma products, home-made compost, leaves in fall, cm, sbm and alfalfa pellets on all my beds and lawn ~ nothing artificial and no pesticides/herbicides. Seems like everything starts off ok each spring, but by mid-summer all looks tired in spite of good care. Bloom is down and last year a whole back bed of Shasta daisies and larkspur died altogether. I had soil testing done a year ago, but never acted on the suggestions because I wasn't sure how to do so without using chemical fertilizers. Can you help me figure this out? Testing was done through A & L Analytical Labs. Method used: M3 Front flower bed: 5 years old - small tree/shrubs/perennials Soil pH: 7.1 P: 15 ppm K: 45ppm Ca: 1,472 ppm Mg: 140 ppm Organic matter (Loi) 14.2% ENR 328 Suggested:1 lb nitrogen per 1000 sq ft 4 times year, 1/2 lb P in spring and fall and 5 lbs K - 1 in fall and rest over growing season. Back flower bed: 30 years old - shrubs/perennials/annuals used chemical fertilizer until 5 years ago Soil pH: 7.0 P: 167 ppm K: 187 ppm Ca: 2656 ppm Mg: 402 ppm Organic matter: 13.5% ENR 314 Suggested: 1 lb nitrogen (per 1000 sq ft) 4 times year,no P and 2 lbs K ( ") in fall and over growing season Q: Do I have too much organic matter? Q: Would it help to use higher nitrogen like blood meal or SBM and more frequently? Q; What is my best source of organic P & K Q: Is the yellowing of leaves due to too much calcium making iron unavailable to plants? Help ! Thanks....See MoreHelp w/understanding soil sample results
Comments (3)Hi Lisa, You have high sulfur which would normally give you a low pH but extraordinarily high calcium, which gives you the high pH. That's classic Texas soil. Growing grass with proper watering and mowing is the best thing you can do for it. Stopping the chemicals and applying compost is second best. Applying organic fertilizer for the bermuda and no fertilizer for the Tech Turf comes last. One thought to keep in mind is that wherever you plant trees, the Tech Turf (the new name for Turffalo grass) will not grow on the east, north, or west sides of the trees, fences, shrubs, or brick mailboxes. The best way to nudge the soil pH is with cottonseed meal. Ask around at your local feed stores to see where to get it. You might have to work up a deal with a feed lot. Or you might visit some cotton gins and see if you can bag your own. Why do you think your soil is clay? If it drains well and has nearly no organic matter, it must have a bit of sand. Dump a couple cups of soil into a quart jar of water and see what happens. Anything that settles to the bottom quickly after shaking the jar is sand. Clay will stay in suspension for a long time. Loam will settle on top of the clay over a few hours/days. The organic matter floats. What loosens the soil is fungi. Compost brings them in if you have none at all. I'm not familiar with expanded shale but it sounds like one of Howard Garrett's ideas. Unless he can explain how shale somehow grows fungi, I would focus on proper watering (deep and infrequent) and mowing (lowest setting for bermuda) with frequent cottonseed fertilizer until you make the change in grass. I have seen Tech Turf mowed at every height from 3/4 to 4 inches, and it all looks amazingly good...unless it is in any shade. Then it becomes a bare spot. Even bermuda does better with shade than Tech Turf. Why are you waiting until fall to convert? The Tech Turf may go dormant before you get complete coverage and good roots. I would convert ASAP and take advantage of the heat. If you are going to change to Tech Turf now, then you can skip the fertilizing and ignore the shortcomings of organic matter. Buffalo grass grows along side the highways where the soil is very poor....See More- 11 years ago
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caflowerluverOriginal Author