Help, trying to understand my 23andme tests results.
caflowerluver
8 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (40)
redtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Got my soil test results!
Comments (19)You're pH of 7.6 really isn't too bad for most vegetables but a downward adjustment would increase nutrient availability and, most likely, yield. I would add sulfur prior to the next cropping cycle. I would do about 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. That will adjust your pH downward over time and it will happen pretty dang slowly. Remember that lime buffers against that change and since you have a lot of it, you're soil is strongly buffered. Clay is another thing that will buffer against pH changes and if you have a clay soil, that will also work against your downward pH adjustment. Another test next year to see where you're at would be in order. For nitrogen, as mentioned above, blood meal would be a good choice. 10 to 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to the same depth should be about right for new plants. If you're looking for one material that that will provide nitrogen while acidifying, blood meal will do virtually nothing, particularly considering your buffering capacity. You would have to move to synthetics to do what you have in mind. Two options would be ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) and sulfur coated urea, which is usually around (40-0-0). Ammonium sulfate = fast release, sulfur coated urea = slow release. Good rates would be 7 lbs. and 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., respectively. Both of those would also give your sulfur level a little boost as well. But be aware that the pH change would rely on regular re-application of those acidifying fertilizers over a very loooooong time (again, buffer). The sulfur really would be a better route for you. On a side note, as your instincts have already told you, BER is not always due to low calcium in the soil. Un-even watering (too wet, followed by too dry, repeat) is usually what leads to the problem. Yes, it's a calcium deficiency in the tissue but variances in water availability to the plant plays a major role in the uptake of that nutrient....See MoreHelp: Soil Test Results
Comments (10)Optimal soil pH for most plants is in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, but you are not that far off. The one thing you do want to know is the level of organic matter in your soil and that is an easy test for your to perform along with these others that will help interpret what you have. Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See MoreHelp with Soil Test Results
Comments (31)Peter, Again, I am disagreeing with you about the need for phosphorus but for the sake of discussion: phosphorus rapidly reacts in soil forming stable compounds that are for the most part unavailable to plants. Over time added phosphorus becomes less and less available although a certain amount of phosphorus is always in solution. As it is removed by plants more P goes into solution and maintains an equilibrium. Note that plants can only utilize the P in solution. Measuring how much P is in solution is not very useful because what really needs to be known is how much is going to be available to plants throughout the season, that is how much P is going to go into solution as the small amount that is available to plants is taken up through the roots. Soil tests try and estimate this by digesting soil is various acid solutions (ÂBray ÂOlsen ÂMehlich etc.). Although these estimates are useful, as I said before they are by no means exact. So what I am saying isnÂt that the 26lbs is wrong and that there is really another 124lbs, what I am saying is that there is probably something like a ton of phosphorus per acre in the soil and the guess that 26lbs is going to be available is just that , a guess and there very well may end up being 200lbs available. Or it could go the other way and there could be less. There are a lot of factors that influence how much P is going to be available including things like pH and michorizal fungi. Fertilizing P in bands or clumps helps with availability because it takes longer for the P to react and become insoluble. So again, I am not disagreeing with you that some P should be added, I am just saying that I wouldnÂt lose any sleep over the results of this soil test. If the pH was 4.5 or 8 or something like that, then I would panic, but of all the things on a soil test you should take with a grain of salt, the P numbers are at the top of the list....See MoreHelp w/understanding soil sample results
Comments (3)Hi Lisa, You have high sulfur which would normally give you a low pH but extraordinarily high calcium, which gives you the high pH. That's classic Texas soil. Growing grass with proper watering and mowing is the best thing you can do for it. Stopping the chemicals and applying compost is second best. Applying organic fertilizer for the bermuda and no fertilizer for the Tech Turf comes last. One thought to keep in mind is that wherever you plant trees, the Tech Turf (the new name for Turffalo grass) will not grow on the east, north, or west sides of the trees, fences, shrubs, or brick mailboxes. The best way to nudge the soil pH is with cottonseed meal. Ask around at your local feed stores to see where to get it. You might have to work up a deal with a feed lot. Or you might visit some cotton gins and see if you can bag your own. Why do you think your soil is clay? If it drains well and has nearly no organic matter, it must have a bit of sand. Dump a couple cups of soil into a quart jar of water and see what happens. Anything that settles to the bottom quickly after shaking the jar is sand. Clay will stay in suspension for a long time. Loam will settle on top of the clay over a few hours/days. The organic matter floats. What loosens the soil is fungi. Compost brings them in if you have none at all. I'm not familiar with expanded shale but it sounds like one of Howard Garrett's ideas. Unless he can explain how shale somehow grows fungi, I would focus on proper watering (deep and infrequent) and mowing (lowest setting for bermuda) with frequent cottonseed fertilizer until you make the change in grass. I have seen Tech Turf mowed at every height from 3/4 to 4 inches, and it all looks amazingly good...unless it is in any shade. Then it becomes a bare spot. Even bermuda does better with shade than Tech Turf. Why are you waiting until fall to convert? The Tech Turf may go dormant before you get complete coverage and good roots. I would convert ASAP and take advantage of the heat. If you are going to change to Tech Turf now, then you can skip the fertilizing and ignore the shortcomings of organic matter. Buffalo grass grows along side the highways where the soil is very poor....See Moreredtartan
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodedtired
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agomaire_cate
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoredtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agojemdandy
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agomaire_cate
8 years agoruthieg__tx
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agojemdandy
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoAlisande
8 years agoUser
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agojemdandy
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agoredtartan
8 years agocaflowerluver
8 years agoredtartan
8 years ago
Related Stories
WORKING WITH PROSUnderstand Your Site Plan for a Better Landscape Design
The site plan is critical for the design of a landscape, but most homeowners find it puzzling. This overview can help
Full StoryCOLORSpeed-Dial Color Selection to Get the Best Result
You’ve belabored your color decisions and are still stuck. Here is how to evaluate your space and make choices that are right for you
Full StoryBOOKSCan Tidying Up Result in Life-Changing Magic?
Organizing phenom Marie Kondo promises big results — if you embrace enormous changes and tough choices
Full StoryLIFE21 Things Only People Living With Kids Will Understand
Strange smells, crowded beds, ruined furniture — here’s what cohabiting with little monsters really feels like
Full StoryWORKING WITH PROSConstruction Contracts: How to Understand What You Are Buying
Learn how plans, scope of work and specifications define the work to be completed
Full StoryWORKING WITH PROSWant the Best Results? Join Your Design Team
Take a leading role in your home project to help the process go more smoothly and get what you really want
Full StoryRANCH HOMESHouzz Tour: Ranch House Changes Yield Big Results
An architect helps homeowners add features, including a new kitchen, that make their Minnesota home feel just right
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESHouzz Survey Results: Remodeling Likely to Trump Selling in 2014
Most homeowners say they’re staying put for now, and investing in features to help them live better and love their homes more
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNKey Measurements to Help You Design Your Kitchen
Get the ideal kitchen setup by understanding spatial relationships, building dimensions and work zones
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNSurvey Results: Kitchen Trends That Seem Here to Stay
More than a third of respondents in Houzz’s annual kitchen trends report now have the means to remodel. Here’s what else they told us
Full StorySponsored
caflowerluverOriginal Author