I forgot the obvious, Safer's Soap, never did did say my suggestions was good for other species, nor would be safe for tree and shrubs, nor pesticides used for tree and shrubs would be safe for indoor plants. We did say not to over do it. What I suggested Mealies should die instantly, then wash them off with clear water, I said to change out the soil as well, and kill ants. Soap and water will also do the job. Then wash it off. The sticky stuff on the leaves could be sap coming out of the hydraods from overwatering, this is to prevent them from drowning. In all insturctions given especailly from non-professionals, you must use some common sense, and very good judgement, Cactus and succulents, are not like coommon shrugs, and trees, so you don't fertilize spray, or what ever what the same products, they are far too strong, if in doubt don't, just toss out the plant, I will send 'Jade' plants to any one willing to send the postge first. I will not charge you for handling or the plant. So just let me know if you managed to kill it. Norma Always change the soil, from any plnat that you got from a Nursery, don't ship plants with soil, wash the soil off with Chlrox then rinse off. Wash your hans before handling another plant. These same instructions have been going out for the past 8 years, I think Pirate Girl can back me up on this. Sorry to bore the rest of you that already know this, but there are people out there that are new that need to be helped. Norma

Emma even before I read Dawn's post I had doubts if your issues were TSWV. I will list a few reasons. Last year and again this year I've had some of the same looking fruit that you have picked. I still haven't figured out what causes it. Most of the time fruit picked from a plant with a disease whether TSWV, the Psyllid Yellows or a few others where they ripen with the mottled look don't ripen to red when picked and left to ripen. And most of the times if you cut the fruit open it will have some off color many times a whitish tissue in spots. And when tasted will not taste good. I had 2-3 plants last year that had fruit ripen like yours. Two of the plants produced all season and many of the fruit on the plants never exhibited the coloring issue. I did lose one but felt it was to the disease issue I never got a diagnoses on that many others had also. I did pull one plant and sent it in when I sent those with the other problem to K-State to verify it didn't have TSWV. They said it didn't. They felt all of my issues were environmental. I don't feel the one issue was but beginning to think the mottled coloring might be. Sunday I picked the first mottled one. It was smooth. Then another Tuesday. It was rough and more blotchy which concerned me some but the plant looks fine and shows no signs of any issue. Then I picked a normal one from the same plant yesterday I believe. I will continue to watch it. Last year like I stated the two that survived produced all normal colored fruit later in the season. Much like a person will see with BER. The coloring does seem a bit odd. With the recent cool spell and the one morning around 52 I've had some plants show some purple coloring especially on the new leaves opening but it doesn't concern me. It is nothing more than an issue with the plant not taking up the needed nutrients like you will see in the spring on plants. I looked at a plant yesterday and the only issue were the purple tint even on a few veins. Again I will watch it but not concerned at this point. Now to what I watch of with TSWV and the other insect born diseases. I look for the veins turning purple. Many times the over all color will take on a lighter color many times with a yellowish tint. The plants with usually quit setting fruit and the blooms will turn yellow and die before opening. The fruit if it ripens will become mottled, rough and many times slightly shrivel. And it usually will ripen mottled and like mentioned above if tasted have an unpleasant taste. The plants will become stunted. I pulled one last week. Many of the plants I planted in early June that I started have been on a growth spurt. This plant was as big as it's neighbors one week and a 1/3 smaller the next. That along with the new growth being off colored, the veins on some leaves were purple and the plant color overall diminished convinced me it was diseased and probably TSWV. The other reason I leaned that way was a week earlier I yanked a plant in the same area that for sure was TSWV. The problem with diagnosing plant issues during this weather is most of the time you have multiple issues going on. The temperature along with the winds we've had at times the last few years create extreme stress. A healthy unstressed plant many times will fight off a disease. Then when stressed and it's system is weakened it will sucumb to it. When I yanked the one earlier this week the Black from Tula plant on one side of it was showing stress issues. The leaves were curled bad. But due to the leaf color, the fact it was producing new green leaves and stems and viable blooms I decided that at this time stress was it's only issue. The cooler days helped it. Sure the heat over the next few will slow down the improvement. Stress can have effects in many ways. I planted a grafted Mortgage Lifter plant in early June I bought at a local greenhouse. It was very gangly and one stem was broke off. It had a few blooms when I bought it but no fruit. Within 10-12 days 6 fruit had set on the blooms that were present when I bought plus one truss that opened after I transplanted it. The first three started blushing this week and I picked them to relieve the load on the plant as it has set more fruit. All 3 were in the 2 oz range. Not near what the fruit size should be. Color ect are all correct. The plant has started doing well. I feel the later fruit will have a chance of being much larger. In fact none of the fruit I've picked so far from any variety has been average size for the variety they are. Again I feel that the size will improve greatly later on. I haven't had a lot of fruit set yet but hope too over the next 3-4 weeks. I picked my first Sungold yesterday. It was on a plant planted in mid June. The Sungold I planted in mid May still hasn't produced one. The Sweet Treats is loading up now. It has always been a reliable producer here. Early Girl for once was the first one this year. It has kept kicking out a few. It beat 4th of July planted at the same time. Back to your plants. Personally I wouldn't yank it. I would taste the fruit. At the worst it will taste bad and you will spit it out. I ate my mottled, rough fruit tonight( although after ripening it was basically smooth and red color throughtout the inside) and it had the best flavor of any I've ate so far this year. So I expect yours too taste ok. If it develops further symptoms then you can. I had the same impression of your container size that Dawn did. The size should be enough. I changed my containers to a new mix this year. The same mix I put in my raised beds. I thought they were wet enough. I set a few contaoners out in the open with full sun and more wind exposure. I figured out that due to the heat of the containers that they needed more frequent watering. I also moved them closer to some shade and put mulch up around the containers and now they are taking off. Gardening is a gamble every year. If the current predicted temps hold then I would of been better off starting more plants earlier. But at planting time I expected the drought to continue along with the heat & wind of the previous two summers. And in June it did especially the first 20 days of June. Since then temps have moderated with only a few 100 plus days. There is the possibility of 1-2 this next week but over all unless they make some extreme changes in forecasts the next 14 days don't show many 100 plus days. And the winds have moderated some also. The next 5-6 weeks will determine my season. Now all I can do is set, wait and watch them and see what happens. Jay

I so totally agree with your philosophy of not freaking out when one finds ONE bug, or a couple of questionable leaves on outdoor plants or gardens. However, one is particularly careful when growing crops in g'houses where there is little to no room for error when first sees a disturbing sign. I've seen whole g'house crops go to expensive, and sometimes ineffective treatment to cure crop of diseased plants simply because the operator did not do due diligence in scouting and catching a disease when it was present in just a few plants sitting on benches of a monoculture. I scouted daily, but when I found something I thought wasn't 'right' but was unsure of the reason, it got quarantined away from other plants until I could ascertain what was going on, or treat it. It allowed me to run my operation without a lot of failure or chemicals. The poster should keep an eye on this, as my first take is if it isn't minor insect damage or environmental, it may be virus.

my plant was doing well with tomatoes already growing the green stage now these lumps or growths are going all over the stems and killing the plant. i dont think they are root nodes because they go all the way up the plant on some of the branches. i tried pruning off the dying branches to see if it would help