If the rot is on the bottom of the fruit, on the blossom end, then it is BER - Blossom End Rot. Tons of info available about it here and on the web. It is common with early season fruit, especially when exposed to poor conditions. Just take it off the plant and pitch it. Watch the other fruits and if the bottom turns black even while still green they will need to be pitched too.

There is a good detailed FAQ about BER over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here.

Dave

I just wanted to mention that I was at the greenhouse the other day, and some of their determinate romas had ripening fruit really early, with rotting tips... tips meaning the end of the bottom of the tomato... opposite where the stem connects. I asked the people and was told it was a calcium deficiency... any thoughts?

Thanks - I will check that out.

Is it typical for a few of the flowers to fall off on tomato plants, without producing fruit?

ya, as it gets hotter and hotter, more and more blossoms will drop. Blossom end rot can arise from several factors, calcium deficiency, extreme swings in soil moisture, and maybe even inadequate pollination. Lots of info on here and the interwebs in general on BER.

Blossom End Rot is most commonly caused by a calcium deficiency, although I believe there are occasionally other causes, too. It is easily remedied, there are products available to treat it, ask at your local nursery. Unfortunately, right now I can't think if a single product name. Chances are very good that by treating it now, your plant will produce many very good tomatoes soon!

Rusty

I'm not a tomato expert, but I'm sure not every flower gets pollinated. Although tomato flowers contain both sexed organs, it's still necessary for some agitation of the flower via wind, bees or other insects, or even human intervention to transfer the pollen to the female part of the flower. Without this, the pollen will sit neatly in its place and the flower never gets fertilized and perhaps this is the scenario in which the flower ultimately dies without fertilization much like other things in nature in a broad perspective.

Otherwise, I guess there are a myriad of reasons a flower would drop without producing fruit, all concerning weather (too cold) or under watering, maybe even over watering and too hot weather... not enough sunlight, etc. etc. Not sure about the specifics, but if you have a healthy plant and all is well, green leaves, established plant with blossoms, some fruit producing and some not, then I'd say some just didn't get pollinated.

There are ways to help the pollination process along, like gently "tapping" or "flicking" the flower on the outside, where the flower meets the stem. Your goal is to achieve the same effect that a bee or other pollinator would, when landing on a flower, which is that in-flight agitating "buzz" effect which shakes the pollen loose so it can do its job. This is why you hear here and there about electric toothbrushes being used as an agitator, pressing it while on onto the same location of the flower, the outside. It's pretty close to the effect of a bee landing on it. Most people will say this isn't necessary and they'd be right for the most part, if bees don't do it, the wind most likely will unless your plants are indoors or you never get wind and you live in the city and haven't seen hide nor hair of a bee or bug. When self pollinating, remember though that 1. don't over-stress your plant by pollinating a thousand flowers on a 2' plant (exaggeration but you get the idea) 2. the season /climate is more responsible for flower and fruit production than human intervention i.e. fertilizing, pruning etc. etc. When the time is right, the plant will push out what it's capable of for the year, depending on its breed and health

If you see any signs of sickness, take a photo and post it up, maybe someone can help. Double check about calcium deficiency, you can usually do an hour of googling to verify what people around you will tell you. If I find the same info on site after site, then I feel more confident in the advice. For example, just a quick google of "calcium deficiency in tomatoes" and clicking on images and I get tons of photos like this:

Gypsum is good for calcium depositing. So is bone meal, but it is slow to take effect as bacteria needs to break it down, and it will also add phosphorous although as I said, very slowly.

Also I would be smacked on the hand if I didn't tell you to do a quick cheap soil test. There's lots of hardcore domestic farmers here that will tell you the affordable ones are crap, but I think they just take things too seriously. Any info is better than no info! If you have to do it several times to get an average, then do it. :)

Read the basic article that Dave referenced above.

This is assuming that the soil is calcium deficient. I read that adding calcium won't do anything if it's related to inadequate moisture. Apparently lack of moisture can hinder the plants ability to uptake calcium, among other things.

If I notice this becoming a common occurrence, I will try amending with a calcium liquid fertilizer.

The only thing that stinks is that once you've notice it, it's already too late.

Thanks for reading the article Chris. It is only one of many quality info sources available. Unfortunately despite all the research and publications over the past 20+ years the old "lack of calcium or insufficient calcium" claim remains to spread. It has taken on a life of its own on the web and every year about this time we get many questions about it and all sorts of posts claiming to have found a way to prevent/cure it. So sticking with scientific and other legit sources gives you more accurate info than 100's of so called undocumented claims can.

Research has repeatedly proven that there is ample calcium in BER fruit. It is simply badly distributed due to inconsistent soil moisture and the plant's young age. Further that all the of the so-called cures and preventatives have only a coincidental relationship to its disappearance. They make the gardener feel better about taking an active role but does nothing for the plant and in some cases makes things worse by skewing the soil pH or binding up needed nutrients.

BER is a common problem for all, including the commercial industry who spends millions in annual research seeking ways to eliminate it. As the plant matures its circulatory system, its ability to feed the plant also matures. Provide it with consistent soil moisture and wait for the weather and spring rains to quick screwing up and BER disappears all on its own.

Dave

This does not happen to me any more when I plant transplants into an old bed. An old bed is just plain heavy with OM such as composted plants, old manure, and dug-in kitchen garbage. Lots and lots of dug-in kitchen garbage. It does happen in a new bed, so the syndrome (whatever the cause, real or specious) does go away with soil improvement in general. No NPK chemicals, no Ca, no Mg needed.

Agreed. I don't think it's a lack of nutrients in the soil.

Anyone here use Mykos on the root ball of their vegetables before planting?

" I don't think it's a lack of nutrients in the soil."

I do, but I also NEED to practice strict water management here, so that is a co-factor. The point should be that with all bases covered, it will go away.

True. I mean this year: I did a couple layers of dead leaves and newspaper on the bed last fall(which I ended up finding didn't break down all the way and was a big pain heh) I made a sieve and sifted composted soil as an amendment to the beds, then(and this is the first year I'm trying this) I dug a 2-foot hole where I was going to plant and added crushed eggs, lobster shells, worm castings, bone meal, some 4-6-3 organic fertilizer and aspirin. I then covered it and put this Mykos stuff all over the root ball of the tomato plant and then planted it.

So I'm hoping that was enough nutrients for the plants to feed off of.

Gardening has rapidly become an obsession, so I'm trying new things until I get better results. However, I know that every year can bring different obstacles, including the elements. I really appreciate all the advice and I've learned so much since I joined 2 days ago

Good link Dave
<A good basic article on BER is found

at http://ucanr.edu/sites/placernevadasmallfarms/files/86509.pdf>

Chris B said: <This is assuming that the soil is calcium deficient. I read that adding
calcium won't do anything if it's related to inadequate moisture.
Apparently lack of moisture can hinder the plants ability to uptake
calcium, among other things.>

It is water that moves calcium thru the plant - so even when you have adequate calcium in the soil BER can be a problem.

The other problem is this: You walk into a garden center with a problem. They don't make any money unless you buy something. Maybe they should sell a watering schedule for the variety of plant you are having trouble with?

So they tell you BER is caused by lack of calcium (which is true) but don't tell you that adding calcium to the soil will not fix the problem. And if the product you bought doesn't fix the problem when you return they will sell you a foliar spray or something for blossom drop instead of asking if your plants are getting 6 hours of direct sunlight.

A watering can or a soaker hose will work better with a watering schedule than selling products.

Keep in mind other veggies can have also BER. ie. squash, peppers, even cukes, or melons. Also some varieties are more easily affected than others.

I have the biggest problem w/BER in containers (pots) because we have a steady wind (high on a hill) and things then need daily watering, esp. in the heat of summer.

To me gardening is one huge experiment - so keep a garden notebook to write things in as/when you think of them. Esp. problems you have this year or plans to correct them next year. Take pics or make notes of things that went well - things that need improvement, even specific varieties or plants you want to try next year.

I don't know about you but by next year this year will be a blur for me.

ps. I forgot to mention the eggshells trick. IF you want to add eggshells go ahead just be sure to water them in really good :)

IF you add them this year they will be there next year and maybe the year after.

The point is the eggshells don't/won't decompose with any speed to help with BER today or tomorrow. IF someone gave you that advice - keep that in mind about any other suggestions they offered.

< added crushed eggs, lobster shells, worm castings, bone meal, some 4-6-3 organic fertilizer and aspirin.>

Wow talk about hole additives! :)

Chris as gumby said, if you are really really lucky you might get some benefit from all that (except the worm castings and the organic fertilizer) a couple or three years down the line. Egg shells are the wrong form of calcium to begin with and VERY slow to decompose anyway so just add them to your compost pile. And while low Phos soil is very rare, bone meal is also very very slow acting. So don't count on any of them, much less aspirin???, to provide any nutrients.

Keep in mind that even organic supplements can be over-used and cause problems. For excess worm castings can be too high in N for the plants. Compost is good - the more the better but it and granular organic supplement are a source of nutrients only if you have a very active soil micro herd of beneficial bacteria and fungi and residents. That is seldom the case in relatively new beds. So plan on providing your plants some supplemental feedings throughout the growing season. If you want to stay organic there are any number of liquid organic supplements available to use for feeding.

Dave

As for eggshells:
I now toss em in my compost and they come out the other end but what I wanted to add was - I also have a bucket full of crushed eggshells circa 1998 that sit out in the wx year round btw.

What I use them for is slug control (along with some coarse sand) that I place around seedlings. I am not gonna say they are some miracle cure or prevention but they are one of the many, many, organic slug controls that I use and you need more than one to control slugs, but that is another topic completely.

This is one (local) observation that elsewhere-local experts will say is bogus. I dig kitchen garbage onto holes in the beds. That garbage includes a dozen egg shells a week at the minimum; just broken, not roasted, frozen, rinsed, ground-up, acidified, blended, or whatever other magical act is done to them. They DO NOT hang around for years. They are gone forever in about a month or three. Even corn cobs last longer. The guess is that some underground critters like them. Forget all the bloated crap above. Some people want to make everything elaborate and complicated when it isn't. It's just plain ordinary gardening. Just amend your soil with OM, water carefully, and BER will go away.

Wow! Well it looks like I'm in the right place.

I appreciate all of the information and advice - it truly is priceless.

The egg shells and aspirin were something I read about on a site for planting tomatoes. I figured I would try it and see if I notice any differences. I knew that consistency in watering was important, but I didn't know that it was this important.

<I have the biggest problem w/BER in containers (pots)>

Funny that you mentioned that, because last year I had the same issue with yellow squash. It's quite frustrating when you're not sure why it's happening. Wish I joined this forum sooner.

<Compost is good - the more the better but it and granular organic supplement are a source of nutrients only if you have a very active soil micro herd of beneficial bacteria and fungi and residents.>

I was researching compost tea a lot last month and it's been praised by many and others say it's a waste of time. The more I read into it, the more I was excited to try and brew my own batch. I read that pumping enough oxygen into it was very important though.

What are your thoughts on compost tea?

I'm not a homeowner... yet. So, I don't have a place (the space really) to make my own compost, or I sure would. I know many here are advocates for it. When I think about it, what's not to love about compost. It seems like all the good things in soil. Top soil is developed over hundreds and thousands of years of grazing animals droppings, critters, falling foliage, etc. etc. that all rots together into this beautiful, nutrient rich matter that just seems to magically manifest plant growth even in areas that were once void of grasses and dead. If you can try it, I sure would! I'm not sure about keeping it "healthy", and I have no idea what the end product (the tea) is supposed to be like, or if you're supposed to test it for PH, etc. but I'm sure you'll figure all that out. I just haven't read on it. One things for sure, it would certainly make me feel more self sustaining to be using my food waste products to grow plants instead of dumping them in the garbage!

I think that most blossom end rot tapers off after the first cluster of fruit.

<I was researching compost tea a lot last month and it's been praised by many and others say it's a waste of time. The more I read into it, the more I was excited to try and brew my own batch. I read that pumping enough oxygen into it was very important though.

What are your thoughts on compost tea?>

Aerating compost tea is good if you can do it however it is a relatively new aspect of using compost tea, not the be all and end all as some would claim. Plain old compost, allowed to steep in a bucket of water in the sun for a couple of days is still quite beneficial and has been used for centuries in that form. Of course the better the quality of the compost (diverse ingredients), the better the tea.

It can then be used, diluted to the color of weak iced tea, as a root drench for plants. And if diluted even more many use it as a misted foliar feeding.

That is the simplest approach to it. Above and beyond the basics you'll find all sorts of recommendations for additives and making it with different methods but it all still boils down to compost tea.

There is also "manure tea" that some make in the same manner. It is richer in nutrients but is also higher in pathogenic bacteria so it should be used as a root drench only and only when it won't come into direct contact with the edible portions of the plant (like lettuce).

Dave

I make compost and compost tea. As mentioned you don't have to aerate it but if you choose to you can use a fish pump w/airstones. I couldn't find a burlap bag and they are expensive if you can.

So I bought some knee high nylons at the dollar store. Use a large 2# coffee can with both ends opened to hold the stocking open when filling w/compost or manure.

A 5 gal bucket wasn't enuff for me cuz I didn't bother to dilute the tea so I put a sigot in the bottom of a 30 gal. trash can. Put the trash can up on a few cinder blocks - be absolutely sure they are leveled - 30 gal * 8# = 240# - quite heavy to move after filling. If not leveled it will spill over was filled - all for naught.

I put 2x stock on top of the blocks, Make it high enuff to place a 5 gal bucket under the spigot to fill.

IF you decided to aerate it (I did) you will need to locate it near AC power. So it is near the deck. Tie knee high w/rope or string - tie string to 2x4 placed across the top of the trash can.

HTH

Ok - yeah I heard about diluting it for a foliar spray or a root drench.

Regarding the use of manure, that thought did cross my mind about bad bacteria getting on leafy vegetables. But that's only in the case of using animal manure? Is that how people were getting ecoli from eating spinach, because of the use of manure?

I used cheese cloth, and put worm castings in it, with a little compost. Then I added a little molasses and kelp meal. I heard that helps feed to microbes and produce more, but not sure how true it is.

Worm castings are great - if I had em I'd use em.

I'm not sure about anything with manure but thought the ecoli thing came from people harvesting improperly in the fields.

I bought a bag online initially.

I'm gonna try building a vermicompost bin next.