Is under-cabinet molding a standard thing?
slk7e7
8 years ago
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Amber
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Can rail lighting/under cab molding be too thick?
Comments (6)I had the same issue with my options. I finally found other trim pieces they carried, not called light rail, and picked one of those. My fronts have a bit more detail than shaker, but I still wanted something smaller and simpler than their light rail options. I think mine are only about 3/4" tall, 1" max. This isnt the best picture of it, but you get the idea. I also wanted straight lines, not 'beads'. Mine just has a slight chamfer (?) on one edge....See MoreDIY cabinet install: some things we learned...
Comments (10)The cabinets I bought and installed came with adjustable leg levellers rather than the fixed toekick base. It is much easier to adjust the feet one at a time until the cabinets are perfectly flat and level, and there is no messing around with shims. In my kitchen, from the highest to lowest spot on the floor along one run of cabinets, the difference was almost 3/4". To try to stack up shims that high would have been a nightmare, and then I would have had to figure out how to disguise the fact that the end of the run of cabinets was perched 3/4" off the floor. But with the leg levellers it was dead easy. I do agree with stacyneil that a laser level would have been a good thing. Within the three different runs of cabinets in my kitchen the cabinets, are all perfectly flat and level, but from one run to another, they are out of level by over 1/2 inch. But that's one of those things that I'll be the only person who evers knows or notices....See MoreRaising Standard Cabinets
Comments (9)Thanks so much for the responses :o) I had a contractor come today to give us a quote for a few things that we want to do in the kitchen. It turns out that our cabinets are already 18 3/4 inches above the counter tops... and if we did what I was talking about with bulking up the molding and then putting crown on top, it would still leave 4 inches between the crown and ceiling. Ack. So at this point, I'm not sure what we'll end up doing. I really like the idea of adding more height to the standard cabinets, even if it's just visual perception.. so I think we'll still bulk them up a bit and do crown. I am not a fan of having a big open space above the cabinets or displaying dishes, greenery, etc. there. But perhaps we can do some above the cabinet lights at some point or something... or maybe it won't end up bothering me so much in the end. We'll see, I suppose! I just feel like 4 inches of dead space would look a little awkward, but it may turn out okay. My rationale for raising them was that I can only reach the third row on tippy toes (I prefer to knock things down with a wooden spoon, my husband loves this.. ha!) anyway, so what's the difference? (I'm 5'5") blackcats13, I would love to know your cabinet height! I think that 2-3 inches would be totally fine, but 4 may be a bit much. My other idea was adding a trim piece at the bottom of the cabinets to eat up another inch or so of space, but I'm not sure if that would just throw off the proportions of the whole thing or not. So much to consider!...See MoreDoes anyone have under cabinet light molding?
Comments (10)Our KD's designed the doors on our upper cabs to be longer (taller?) than the cabs themselves so we could go handle-less on the doors (never intended by us) and to cover the lights, except then you'd see the lighting fixtures when the doors were open. We had them install light rails (that strip of molding under the cabs), and the U/C's are completely hidden unless you look from underneath, A little OT for jraz_wa and imrainey--your kichler U/C's; we have the linnear lighting as well. Do you find that some of the lampholders (bulbs) do NOT light when you turn your U/C's lights on? We have some that consistently don't light, and some that take turns. When I turn on my U/C's, I go around the room tapping or jiggling some of the bulbs to get them to light. TIA...See Moreslk7e7
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