Larger than required capacitors will not overload a start winding in a compressor or fan motor. The smallest capacitor that will allow reliable starting is selected to save $$. High voltage motor start and run caps are not exactly cheap. I worked verifying the sizing of motor caps for a couple years working on my engineering degrees. All the capacitor is doing is providing phase shift so the single phase induction motor has a starting torque. More phase shift will not harm the start winding, but will increase the starting torque the motor can produce. A 'hard start kit' for a compressor is just another capacitor and a time delay relay to make sure it comes out of the circuit without relying on the start winding centrifugal switch. Needless to say, hard start kits do not damage start windings, and are supplied by the manufacturers as part of some condensers since a single size compressor motor can be used in a range of units with different capacities with different starting requirements. The fan motor in the condenser is just another single phase motor that needs starting torque. Notice how the standard test is to spin the blade and see if the motor than comes up to speed? You are supplying the starting torque.

Go do a google search for yourself on "capacitor upside down". Maybe you'll learn something. http://www.ronstultz.com/knowledge/Documents/HVAC/HVAC%20-%20How%20to%20Replace%20the%20Run%20Capacitor%20in%20the%20Compressor%20Unit.htm Speaking of "normal"... https://www.doityourself.com/forum/air-conditioning-cooling-systems/496422-capacitor-condenser-unit.html As I said, I got this tip from an old, retired HVAC pro who now runs a business supplying the HVAC industry in Sacramento. Seeing others mention that they found them upside down or asking about it makes me believe there is probably something to it. It's not that they fail if not installed upside down, it's that upside down will lengthen the life, especially in very hot climates like Ca. and Az. Your argument about manufacturers is mute/pointless. They make their product so that it can be installed either way or horizontal. It's up to you which way you think is best. I decided to rely on a retired HVAC pro with many years of experience who supplies the local HVAC industry. I'd bet on that.

I thought new motor was defective so I exchanged it and I'm still dealing with same issue. I also have plenty of ventilation with my full ridge vent as the original fan worked phenomenal before it quit on me. I remember before how the original fan would suck a cracked door open, it had that much force. But with this new motor, I can barely feel anything. I'll open only one window to check air flow, but feel nothing. The luvers open up on the ceiling panel when fan is on, so I know fan is at least trying to do what it's supposed to. I just don't understand the situation. If a motor is turning the shaft/blades, why no air being pulled in from the outside?

That may have sounded like a political attack Elmer, now that I reread it. But I meant that as a joke. I believe it's true that licensing and regulations increase costs. In Texas, to get a *true* HVAC license and not just some registration with the state as in a technician --- you need 4 years of verifiable experience, someone with a *Real HVAC License* to vouch for you for that 4 years of experience, then you have to take and pass the HVAC license exam with a 70 or better. It's a timed test, but open book. It's by no means an easy test. You also need to have the means to buy and maintain General Liability Insurance. Open book is easy: uh, no. The test covers multiple books, the refrigeration book alone is like a phone book of a major metropolitan area that is if you're old enough to know what a phone book is. I believe it's a dumb approach when you have to pull a permit for everything and anything. It's mostly a money grab in my opinion. Those permit rules are implemented by politicians. We have to pull permits here in the city limits. Most of my work is in the county, there is no requirement to pull a permit in the county here. (That makes the job easier to get done and move onto the next job, which is important in this climate. California climate is nothing when it comes to air conditioning, in most cases. ) With that said, I know what the building code is in Texas and I follow it, even though I am not pulling a permit 99% of the time. ------------- The point that was lost though is that your climate would make it extremely difficult for an HVAC technician / installer to make a good enough living only doing air conditioning work. This is why I was against moving to a more moderate climate. I wanted to work doing what I wanted my career in HVAC to be about. Mostly air conditioning related problems. I don't regret that choice. The only choice I regret is not getting my HVAC license sooner than what I did. But I probably wouldn't have as much knowledge as I do from the myriad of employers I worked for over the years... seeing different ways of doing things. This is why I said: HVAC installer is a dead end job. I believe it would be true even for California, because you'd never make enough to support yourself *only* doing AC installation work.