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Branch rot? Here's how I saved it from spreading

phalanx_viridis

8 years ago

This forum has been indispensable in my plumeria growing experience and I want to give back by adding to the valuable info the members here have offered. So, a few pictures follow on my tactic of knocking out branch rot:

I have a JJ tong deng that I noticed was not coming out of dormancy this spring and upon closer inspection, one of three branches was squishy and the green on the tip was a black color. The other two branches and the main stem were still firm so I went to work trying to save the plant. I cut the rotting branch as low as I could without cutting into adjacent branches.

You can see the rotten branch below...the branch just came off and left the inner cambium layer still attached.

I noticed there was a small incision in the rotting branch, so that was likely the culprit, you can see it in the above pic.

This is what the wound looked like after cutting 4/18

So I started to clean the wound by irrigating it with a syringe of isopropyl alternating with H202. I let it dry for a day, then irrigated the wound again. The black tissue kept washing out and I irrigated until it looked clean. After watching it for a few weeks, I kept it in a warm shady location until I checked on it today.

It looks great and is even starting to flo for me!

And onward tong deng! flo baby, flo!

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Tym, As Pirate Girl said, you're too concerned about watering these. They'll be fine. They are drawing resources from their lower leaves in order to live, but this takes months. As the resources are depleted, the lower leaves dry up. You can remove or not. This is a natural process, especially when they're in growth - as new growth appears, old growth dies. As you note, until there are roots there is no reason to water them. The only condition where you would is one you can't supply right now - lots of sun and warmth, a broad expanse of sidewalk or a heating mat, and the plant sitting in pure pumice in a pot that will warm easily. Until you have those conditions when an Aloe is rootless, watering is fruitless - or rather it's worse than fruitless, because it will kill the plant. Just be kickin' it with the Aloe - stand it up in a nice sturdy vase/container (a 155mm shell casing works great), or leave it potted in dry soil, and spritz as needed. It will be fine until growing time. I hope this has convinced you, because frankly I'm out of words.
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Cut out every last little bit of rot. You want to cut back until you reach healthy green/white tissue that bleeds latex. Dust the cut ends of both parts with a fungicide, I wouldn't use bleach or peroxide. You can seal the branches on the plant with a latex caulk after they've dried for a couple days. You want to allow the cuttings that you are planning to root to dry for about 2 weeks. Dip those in a rooting hormone before potting them up. If any rot is left in the plant there's a good chance that it will spread. Even if you remove all visible rot you could still loose the plant due to whatever made it start rotting to begin with. I hope you are able to save it. Karyn
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Hilary, it is really hard to tell but if you're getting white sap that is a good sign. Sometimes they get wrinkly due to going a while without water. I think you're doing the right thing by giving it just a little bit of water, especially if it has 3 leaves. How long has it been rooting? I think you are on the right track. tropicgal, so sorry to hear that but you did the right thing. Let those cuttings develop a good callous - if they make it through the callousing stage you should be able to root them. Sometimes with the rot the plant has lost so much moisture the cuttings will just shrivel but it's worth a try. Many people callous by putting the end in perlite or dipping the end in rooting hormone & then putting the end in hardwood mulch and leave them for about 2 weeks.
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