Picture below show tomato plants doing much better in the different bed.

What is the pH of the soil? What does a good reliable soil test have to say about soil nutrients? Why was the lime added? Why was the fertilizer added?

kimmq is kimmsr

Todays reading tells me its 7.3 pH of the soil. Lime and fertilizer were added to enhance and improve soil since I grew tomatoes there a year before. I think it might be herbicide from the straw. I need more testing!

pH is a bit high for tomatoes - they'd prefer it just slightly acidic (6.0-6.8). Lime doesn't provide any benefit to soil other than to raise pH so I'd suggest skipping that for any produce you plant next season. And it is suggested that you do not plant tomatoes in the same location in successive seasons. Any disease issues that may have been present can winter over and affect the next season's crop. You should use a 3 year rotation plan at the very least.

Certain types of lime can be 'good' sources of calcium for soil, but as gardengal has pointed out, at pH levels above neutral, it can be counter productive. If calcium was your concern, look for slower release sources (some people use eggshells - especially added to compost... the smaller the particle size, the faster it becomes available,) or organic sources that that are buffered in a slightly acidic mix for tomatoes.

I doubt it is the lime. I grow tomatoes with a 7.6 pH. I am with Jean as far as explanation (clopyralid or similar).

You said that you've gotten successful crops from that space in previous years, I'm curious, how many hours of sun does the site get? And has anything changed?

This site is the sunniest and gets 10 hours of sun during summer and 8 during early-mid spring. I did get plentiful of tomato crops last year and this year - there are plenty of bloom and small tomatoes, there is no visible disease, just the plants arent as green and leaves are curled inward.

Actually, last year I had the same problem and still had crops.

You said "todays reading tells me its 7.3 pH". Are you using one of those very unreliable home soil test kits? What is the level of Magnesium in that soil and the ratio of Ca to Mg? Both, in balance, are essential to good plant growth.as are all the nutrients.

Are these tomatoes all the same cultivar or are they different.

kimmq is kimmsr

Yes I use test I bought at home depot. It works by collecting soil samples and mixing with water. Not sure what you mean by "unreliable" kimmq. I dont know how to test for Calcium and Magnesium, so I dont know their levels. Do you?

Only one of those is determinite, the rest are indeterminite. Also, only one of them is hybrid, the rest are heirloom.

Yes, all plants are from the same cultivar.

if I understand your question correctly this occurred just after transplanting? if that is correct then it looks to me like transplant shock and/or some root damage that occurred during the transplanting

By unreliable I mean you cannot be sure if the results are of any value. I have used those home test kits and compared them to the results from a good soil testing lab and found major differences. I have used the pH test to look at how they report on vinegar and a baking soda solution and found those test kits gave me the same pH on them.

The home test kits do not test for either Calcium or Magnesium and the pH test does not tell you why your soil pH is where it is, important to know because that determines which type of lime, Calcitic or Dolomitic, you may need.

If some of the plants are determinant and others are indeterminant and some are hybrid and others are heirloom they cannot be of the same cultivar.

kimmq is kimmsr

Kimmq I thought cultivar means grown and sold by the same company. I ll check the definition. Thanks.

I guess at this point I am wondering what is the difference between physiological and herbicital tomato leaf roll/curl?

Physiological leaf curl is the result of turgidity of the leaf, too much, or too little, water in the leaf.

Herbicidal leaf curl is the result of a plants leaves being sprayed by an herbicide.

Viral leaf curl is the result of a plant disease and then there some insects that cause leaf curl.

Physiological leaf curl is self correcting when the water problem is solved. Herbicidal leaf curl is preventable, don't spray herbicides near those plant. The others require some diagnostics, which disease or insect is causing it and what is the cure?

kimmq is kimmsr