Any chance you can swing enough room for a 36" wide hood? Will give better pick-up and keep you cooler -- well, less uncomfortable -- out there in NC.

Costco has been (mostly) running the NXR sales for a couple of weeks in mid to late July and mid to late fall. Not really predictable, though. You pretty much have to check the web site every week or so to find the sale when Costco.com pops it out of the hat..

Thanks for the compliment but I hope my postings haven't been seen as presenting "compelling happy owner stories" for the NXR. Okay, Nunya was a bit of fanboy/evangelist, but I've tried to be explicit about what the stove is. Lots of other posters deserving as much or more credit for balanced info on NXRs. For anybody searching on NXRs, black88mx6 (another Montanan), Stacy Neil, Susan (aka dirty bloomers), pete_in_ar, trixie in the garden, and gw-basic among the many others. Also, be sure to read bmorepanic's saga which will tell you why you want to buy your NXR from Costco (i.e., so, should you be one of the unfortunate few who get a lemon or a shipping damaged stove, you can take it back to Costco immediately for a refund or replacement. You won't be stuck for months of hassling with vendor and warranty service.)

No can do on the 36 inch hood. There are cabinets on either side. I have been unable to come up with a better solution other than a complete kitchen remodel (which is not in the cards).

Yep, I've read bmrepanic's NXR saga. And most everything else NXR here. I just used Nunya and you and examples of happy campers. Seems like there are pretty much happy campers and horror stories on about every brand. So at some point you just have to hold your nose and dive in.

So this is the direction I'm heading... unless I run into a snag which derails me... again.

My wife nixed the NXR range hood as too massive for our setup. So I'm looking for something in the 6 to 10 inch height now. I guess the thought of having that 18 inch tall SS hood seemed too much and she's probably right.

Interesting venting option there zagyzebra. Impractical in my case as there is a 2nd floor over the first floor kitchen.

One of my sons is in the building/remodeling business and says that he's never had a customer install a range hood to deal with excess heat from the range... only cooking odors. And yet looking at those 4x 15k burners, I'm thinking heat may indeed be an issue (in the summer)... which is another reason I really like induction ranges. But that option is a lost cause at this point.

Speedlever - I dunno. I find when I have the range hoods, I very rarely use them (I find them gross), unless confined to a very small, tight space when you have no choice in the matter.. Odors dissipate within a few hours anyway. I actually checked to see if it was code to install one -- it's not, at least not where I'm located.

I just want to mention that there are lot of showrooms with displays on clearance. It seems viking and bluestar along with dcs all went through changes so all those previous models are being replaced. I got a 30" bluestar RCS for $1600. I'd go check local high end appliance dealers and see if they have anything on clearance. The viking (granted we didn't care for it) was down to $1100 for the display.

Also, we're also going through range hood hell right now as we attempt to figure out how to install it, and which style to go with. Long story short, it's going to cost more than the range (which I find repugnant). That said, there is no way I won't have one. When you consider the risk of NO2 and CO, I am more than happy to go through hell to have one. Not to mention grease on our shiny new kitchen cabinets. I WISH I had either of your options for duct runs, btw. Why not get a rear discharging vent hood and go straight through the wall? Seems like a much easier solution to me. Though, if going through the soffit and out is an option you can always get a range hood like this: Independent/Prizer. It's a top discharge only, but a smoking deal on a quality hood.

Interesting about clearance prices on the big hoods.

One point of clarification. It is CO2, not CO, that you get with gas ranges built in the last couple of decades. (CO production is minimal unless the range has been seriously detuned.) There was a longish discussion a couple of years ago that was started after a Lawrence-Berkely-Livermore Labs study. Here's a link to the thread -- not sure that the links in the thread will still work, though.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2304651/ny-times-the-kitchen-as-a-pollution-hazard

Eric, interesting option about visiting local high end dealers for clearance items. I'll hafta check into that (although there aren't many in my area). That Ebay link is definitely an option. However, I'm not sure about the makeup air part of the equation in this range hood quest. I think 600 cfm exceeds the max allowed without dealing with MUA issues.... which would have also been an issue with the NXR range hood. (I believe 400cfm is the local max without MUA).

jwvideo, interesting thread about the LBL study. Yes, the embedded links still work! When we bought the house 15 years ago (built in 1993), it had a gas range (which the prior owners installed in place of the original electric range) and an OTR internally vented microwave.

Speedlever, in my area, 600cfm is the max allowed. I know some areas are more stringent, as far as 300 and 400 cfm. I guess it depends on where you live.

I believe it's 400cfm in my area.

I have a nxr 30' range I love it.I purchased a 30 inch stainless steel hood for $30 and purchased a 30'wide piece of stainless for the back wall.It all is very professional looking.I haven't had any problems with the size of exhaust it removes.

What range hood did you get?

A range hood isn't just there to remove odors and heat it also sucks up all the effluent coming out of the pans (vaporized grease and water). Hi heat burners create a lot of effluent which translates to a lot of grease floating around just looking for a surface to condense on. I have a 42" 1200 cfm hood over my 36" BS and even running the fan on hi I still get some oil film on the outside of the hood from time to time. If you've ever cleaned out the grease channels on a hood you would be appalled at how much oil condenses there. To me it is far grosser to have that all over my cabinets, counters, ceiling, light fixtures, etc. then having a properly sized ventilation system removing the vast majority of it. Oil patina is not cool.

Good point Mistman. How do you determine the proper size for a ventilation system?

There is a formula for calculating the required CFM's per BTU but I don't know it off hand. There is a member on this board who's a guru at figuring it out but again, I forget their handle, it's been a little while since I went through the exercise. One thing that was a bit of a surprise to me when hood shopping for our new build is that a hood IS a major appliance just like the wall ovens or refrigerator. It had always been sort of an after thought until I went shopping for a properly sized, quality unit. It not only includes the hood and fan/fans (mine has 2) but also the way the effluent is channeled out of the house, it can be a big expense. Add MUA and it's enough to make some folks change their minds about a Hi BTU, commercial 'style' range. In fact due to the CFM and MUA requirements in some municipalities it would be prohibitive to actually put one in without some kind of variance.

Someone may chime in with the formula, a bit of searching would probably work or perhaps in a little bit someone will post it up.

Something tells me I won't like the cost of the "proper" hood for this range. :-/

If the range is over 50k BTU its supposed to be 1 CFM for every 100 btu. If not, they say 100 CFM for each linear foot, or 100 CFM for each sq ft. I went with 100 CFM for each square foot, as that is what's allowed without make-up air (600 CFM in my area). I have to run the duct work for the range hood as we don't currently have any. Full disclosure: my range hood install (total cost) is costing more than my range.

I think your existing kitchen layout and your wife have already nixed a "proper" hood if you mean one with an optimal design. As has been said elsewhere here, we work with the kitchens we have.
A lot of us have to work with less than optimal hood choices and that
is just how it is. Just because you can't have the best possible thing doesn't mean you cannot have something adequate.

For searching on hoods and MUA, our resident ventilation guru is kaseki.

If you want advice on "optimal" above a 30-inch NXR, then you want something that is: 27" inches deep (front to back) for
best coverage and capture above all four burners; 36" wide (side to
side) to capture cooking effluent that might go a bit sidewise because
of turbulence; and a canopy tall enough (probably 18" high at least) to provide good containment. Sound like a no-go for you?

Rules of thumb for CFM? These take no account of hood design. (ETA -- I only saw Eric's post after I uploaded this, so I apologize for the duplication).

For electric stoves (including induction) and less-expensive standard brand gas ranges and cooktops, the rule of thumb is 100 CFM per linear foot of stovetop. For a 30-inch wide stove --- that is 2½ linear feet --- the rule of thumb is 100 CFM x 2.5 ft = 250 CFM.

For pro-style gas cooktops and stoves (including the NXR) the rule of thumb is 1 CFM per 100 btu of burner ratings. With the NXR having 4 burners of 15k each, that translates to 600 CFM.

You mentioned reading Nunya's NXR postings from two and three years ago. I'm guessing you've seen the discussions and photos about using 400 CFM OTR/MW units over NXR ranges. We work with the budgets and kitchens and preferences we have. (Verdict on OTRS? Adequate for those folks' cooking but not optimal and maybe requiring opened windows sometimes.)

My own old-house kitchen is such that I only had room for a 650 CFM Zephyr Cyclone. It has a flat bottom (as opposed to a canopy), is only 5½" tall (so no room for much canopy anyway) and only 23" front to back (but, at least, that is far enough back that I'm not bumping into it while cooking.) At least cabinets were high enough to allow for a 36" wide unit, though. What this gives me is: tolerable for heat removal from the room (better than nothing for the person standing at the stove but fine for the rest of the kitchen); it collects and fllters much the greasy effluent (I clean the traps regularly and do not have to clean grease off the cabinetry and counters very often). Mostly adequate on steam collection. (I also tend to put the big pots in the back where the collection/pick-up is a bit better,) Seriously suboptimal for anything smokey even with the windows opened and the ceiling fan helping out. (I don't do heavy-duty wokking and blackened whatevers and serious grilling get done outdoors.)

Note, whatever you get, you will want a smooth and hard-sufaced, easily cleaned backsplash because you will get a bunch of goo back there. It needs to go all the way up to the bottom of the hood (if not behind it). I had our local glass shop fabricate a tempered glass plate for me and it is very easy to clean. Other options include a metal plate (a lot of folks like stainless steel) and tile (specifically something with a hard glossy surface as on subway or glass tiles.)

Quite apart from whether you have code requirements, you want to pay attention to MUA issues. Its the laws of physics that are important here, not just regulatory requirements. Depending on your house's design and construction, MUA can be simple and cheap or complicated and expensive. With my gas water heater and furnace in the basement, well away from the kitchen range hood, I was able to build MUA systems for them for very little money (less than $20 each). I have had no
problems with backdrafting from the range hood. YMMV.

Great info. Thanks much Eric and JWVideo. Looks like I need to educate myself about MUA. In my case, the gas water heater is in the attached garage and the gas furnaces are in the crawl space and attic. Are those the primary things that affect MUA? It sounds like I need at least 600 cfm and code is 400 cfm.

If you get a big enough hood, 400 cfm would probably suffice. Make up air can be a costly endeavor when you're trying to have it not affect you inside temp... especially if you don't livein a place like LA

Eric, I'm considering something like the Broan E661. It's a bit smaller (at 5 inches high) than I'd like (prefer 9 inches high in the 34 inch space between my cabinet bottom and the cooktop surface), but it looks like it can handle 500-600cfm and I can exhaust it directly out the back and through the exterior wall. It is reasonably affordable and reportedly on the quiet side.

I like the Broan E64000, but at 10 inches high, it will only leave 24 inches from the cooktop to the bottom of the hood.

Broan E66130ss

Broan E6430ss

The Kobe Brillia CHX9130SQB-1 also looks interesting... for ~$600.

Kobe Brillia CHX9130SQB-1

The $200 sale is back at Costco from June 29-July 12, while supplies last. I put in an order last night. I also bought the continuous grate accessory for ~$75.

Now the pressure is on to figure out the rest of the equation. ;)

NXR DRGB3001

NXR continuous grate accessory

I received the accessory grate last week and the NXR range was delivered today. It sits in my garage, still in the box on the pallet. No signs of any shipping damage to the shipping box. All looks good, short of removed the packing.

I ran into a snag with the other aspects of the equation (backsplash and range hood). It seems when the house was built, the builder put in one size cabinet overhead and a different size cabinet below (there are cabinets to the left and right of the range). Ergo, the 30 inch opening above the range is not centered over the range by 1.5 inches or so.

So before I go cutting a hole in the wall for an external vent, I'm going to have to figure out what to do about the cabinet issue. Looks like we'll be using the range without ventilation for some period of time. Sigh. I suspect this will spark a kitchen remodel. Double sigh.

If it isn't one thing, it's another.

While it is still in the garage, I suggest using compressed air everywhere you can reach. This provides a good way to check over the new range after unpacking, but mainly it will blow out any leftover dust from the factory or that accumulated afterwards in shipping and storage. A good strong vaccum is another option, but less effective.

Thanks for the tip. I plan to do that (the range is sitting right in front of my air compressor). It should probably be cleaned before during the burn-in too.

I've been through some of the threads and printed out some of the cleaning tips. I also printed off the Electrolux door removal procedure so hopefully that won't be an issue either.

I also bought a shoulder dolly so that hopefully me and my 16 year old son can bring it in from the garage.

I haven't unboxed it yet, but from what I've read, it sounds like the back is pretty shallow. I'm not sure if my gas stub and 220v electrical outlet will be an issue or not when I push it into place. I expect it will be a tight squeeze between the cabinet tops too, but I think I have just over 30" between them.

Shoulder dolly