I don't even know where to begin.

Weed and feed 4 times in the spring sounds excessive and doesn't seem to help much based on what you said and based on the pictures. Better bet is to spot spray or get a hose-end sprayer and use concentrate weed killers. I only use a granular weed and feed after dethatching and still get a few weeds

I prefer to pull my weeds and then spray if I have to, but I just did this over the weekend and only had 5 weeds over my 5,000 sq ft.

The 5th picture is a thistle and I see some clover in addition to some dandelions, these three are generally hard to pull by hand.

Ortho Weed B Gon is a good one to start with as it will take care of a large variety of weeds, you can find it just about anywhere, low cost and is pretty effective.

Try these sites for identifying your weeds.

http://turfid.ncsu.edu/

http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/

http://www.msuturfweeds.net/

These are what I use but am in Ohio. Maybe try searching Texas A&M's website for anything similar that is more specific to your area.

I too live in the South DFW area and have a Bermuda lawn. Based on the pictures, you have many different varieties of weeds. Some of which I don't know the name of, but I've fought several times myself. Stick around this site and you will be armed with more knowledge than most of the lawn companies servicing your neighbors yards.

The weeds I can easily identify are: Dallis Grass, Clover, Poa Annua, and Bull-nettle, and Dandelions. Google each of these so you know which is which. There are several others that I don't know the name of, but are common to the area. You definitely have your work cut out for you, but this is completely fixable. If you enjoy gardening, you might find your front lawn to be a fun hobby as well.

The first thing I recommend doing is learning the basics of lawn care. These include watering, mowing, and fertilizing. The most important of these three items are mowing and watering. Done properly, these two things will really help control your weeds. As a primer, and really an overall guide I recommend you check out the Bermuda Bible. If all you do is follow this guide, you will see a major improvement.

Of all the weeds I named above, your biggest challenges are going to the Dallis Grass and Poa Annua. Most everything else can be handled with good watering a mowing practices. Other than Roundup, there isn't really anything else on the market that will kill Dallis Grass - and you don't want to use Roundup on your lawn right now as it will kill everything. Once the Bermuda goes completely dormant you can use Roundup to kill it without harming the Bermuda. I just pull mine. Poa Annua, should begin to die off in the next few weeks if you don't over-water your lawn. It gets too hot in TX for it to survive the summer, but it will be back in the Fall and Spring. You can help to minimize it's reemergence by using several well timed doses of pre-emergent.

I would be interested to know if there is a chemical that is safe for Bermuda Lawns for killing Poa Annua as it was a much larger issue for me this year than I anticipated.

If you have any bluegrass in there it's not the well mannered bluegrass they have in the north. That would have died out in any of the many droughts over the past 10 years.

My new yard is living proof that simply mowing the weeds gives you a leg up on many of your neighbors. Last summer my yard was 98% prairie grasses including sand burr with just about 2% St Augustine surviving in the deepest shade where the other weeds wouldn't grow. This year I am babying the St Aug to get it to grow out and crush the prairie grasses. That's working, but patience is needed. But also this year the area was taken over with horse herb. Normally I hate horse herb as a weed in my St Aug, but I'll take it as a ground cover to shade out the prairie grasses and sand burrs. I don't like it in St Aug, but for now it's green-ish in the areas where the St Aug is not filled in.

So on to your issues. Yes, pic #5 is thistle. Take a shovel to the root right under the bottom leaves and that should kill it. If not, repeat. Those can be killed with something like Weed-B-Gone spray if you catch it before it bolts, but that bolted a few months ago. The shovel is easy. For the rest of the broadleaf weeds you can spot spray those with Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis spray. That's the full name, so don't get the others. Then you need to decide what kind of lawn you and the HOA want to have. If it must be bermuda, then you need to decide on either sodded hybrid or seeded common bermuda. The sodded hybrid is almost always Tif 419 and can be had anywhere that sells sod. It's very cheap because all the sod growers grow it. Seed is still cheaper but that's the stuff you see trying to escape over the sidewalk in your first picture. The sodded one is much better behaved. Or you might want to try a mix of prairie grasses that look like a lawn if you keep them watered (very infrequently) and mowed (less frequently). I can't remember the name of the mix but there's one with buffalo, curly mesquite, and blue grama. Those three grasses must have full sun, but they really don't need much water. The other alternative is St Augustine which is very popular in your area. St Aug will flat take over the lawn if you're patient. It needs help against the broad leaf weeds (like dandelion and horse herb), but will walk all over the other grasses, including all forms of bermuda, when mowed high and watered properly.

Speaking of watering properly, you got off to a bad start with the rains this year. Even my normally nutgrass free lawn in San Antonio has nutgrass this year. But I'm not concerned about it because what I'm about to tell you should make it disappear. Nutgrass is a swamp grass. It needs lots of moisture or it will go dormant. If it goes dormant long enough, it will die away. So I do what I have been promoting for a decade now: deep and infrequent watering. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequent means no more than once a week in the hottest heat of summer (temps in the 90s). Y'all get even hotter than the hottest heat with temps in the 100s. If/when that happens, then you can go to once every 5 days. My friends in Phoenix do it like that. But with temps in the 80s, deep water no more than once every 2 weeks. By allowing the soil surface to dry out like this, nutgrass seems to go away. Nutgrass also has a sister sedge called green kyllinga. That stuff is not a swamp grass, but it's also not nearly as aggressive as nutgrass. That would take a sedge killer to take it out. It looks just like nutgrass until it goes to flower. You should time your watering system to see how long it takes to fill some cat food or tuna cans placed around the yard. The time it takes to fill all the cans is your watering time from now on. Every time you water do it for that length of time. Then let it rest and dry out for the next week or so. This method develops deep roots and prevents all the weeds that require continual surface moisture to germinate and take root. So I would wait until next season to see if you still have any nutgrass. Then again, if Mother Nature continues to hammer us with frequent rains, there's nothing you can do to stop nutgrass.

Picture 4 seems to have poa annua in it. (Next time you take lawn pictures, do it on a cloudy day or in the shade. Shade improves our ability to see the blades, stems, flowers, and seeds). I don't have a bermuda lawn so I am not familiar with the weed killers, but others here are. I'll wait for them to reply on that.

to piggy back on dchall, for broad leaf weeds, 2-4d works well. For the grassy weeds, there are many products, sorry I cannot disclose what I use, but doing some searching and you will be able to find what is best in Bermuda for grassy weeds. The poa I think will be the toughest to get ride of. I think Image can control it, but I have heard different stories from others.

Oooh. I bought some Nutseed or something like that from Home Depo at their recommendation but haven't used it yet. http://www.homedepot.com/p/IMAGE-24-oz-Nutsedge-Killer-100099405/100175861

Would you recommend I take this back and buy what you've got?

Where did you buy it from? The Celcius? I'm fine paying extra for something that'll last a few years. I found it on Amazon for $120, is that about right? http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-WG-Celsius-10-oz/dp/B00PLNB19K/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1433954330&sr=1-2&keywords=Celsius

Nutsedge is the one thing Celcius will not kill so you may need both. I'm not familiar with it so not sure how much you have in your lawn. I do see a lot of dallisgrass which is the hardest to kill but Celcius will handle.

http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-WG-Celsius-10-oz/dp/B00PLNB19K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433954569&sr=8-2&keywords=celsius+herbicide

http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-WG-Celsius-10-oz/dp/B00PLNB19K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433954569&sr=8-2&keywords=celsius+herbicide

It will take about 10 days to notice the weeds start to die but after that...all will go brown..

How would I go about reseeding? Ideally it'll fill in but I don't mind popping 50-100 down to reseed too. I figure it might be too hot now. I reseeded a few low patches that I filled with dirt and they took nicely and look great.

I assume I'll have to wait several weeks after the weed killer treatments.

I haven't seeded myself so can't chime in on it. I will tell you, if you have hybrid bermuda(which if it was sodded 10 years ago you most likely do) you do NOT want to overseed. Any seed you buy will be common which you do not want to mix with hybrid. A healthy lawn with hybrid can fill in extremely quick, if you would like a quicker approach; plugs or new sod would be only option for hybrid

And also plan to use roundup along the sidewalk creases, any danger in doing that near grass as long as it isn't two near? How long do I ahve to wait before water can touch the area and not carry it elseware.

Another note is I have a water-garden/secret garden where my yard is low on the back side of my house. I wouldn't weed back there but I need to be cautious that heavy rains don't wash any of the poisons into my water garden and kill my fish. ( I need to kill the grass i

n and around it too...was thinking black plastic. Just haven't gotten around to doing so.)

Round Up is generally safe for any plant where it doesn't touch the leaves...although a few are hyper-sensitive to it and dislike even runoff. Grasses are not among those.

Watering and re-entry into the area is safe as soon as it dries. Call it three hours to be completely safe. At that point, any weed has absorbed enough to kill it.

The stuff quickly binds to soil, so under any circumstances it'll only travel a few feet.

Ordered some Celcius! Should I post progress shots from when I start to use it? -- I love taking photos, haha. I have a 15 dollar pressure pump, I assume this will be good for applications.

Here's my progress with RoundUp in the cracks--a month or two ago I dug out these cracks with a small garden trowel but most of it's come back. I'm not sure if I got the round up deep enough in the cracks as only parts of the plants are dead.

Celcius will take AT LEAST 8 days to start see it working, but some before and after pics would be good. Watch how much you apply, you just need to coat the leaves and it'll absorb in about 2 -3 hours. I overdid it the first time and it browned the bermuda which recovered super fast. you'll be amazed when it takes effect..

Oh yeah you said you mowed recently, i would give the weeds a few days to grow before spraying so there is lots of surface area for the spray

Yeah I just mowed the front lawn two days ago, and back lawn one day ago. I ordered the Celcius today however so it won't arrive until next week.

Someone mentioned adding surficant? Or something similar, what is that referring to?

Now my backyard has lots of flowers, the water-garden/secret garden, pots, and my raised beds. I was just going to treat the front yard and the very top of the backyard near the gate.

The start of my butterfly garden (month old picture, lots of blooms now), lots of Milkweed and other butterfly friendly plants.

^ Very early Spring. They are all now full of peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, asparagus, etc.

A small succulent garden I planted around my mail box. How far away do I need to keep Celcius? (It use to be white stones with orange paint over them)

Concerning using Celcius, how much do I have to worry about and for how long about runoff? Say I spray an area, and the next day it rains and the water goes into the back near my Veggie Garden (I live on a slope, Garden's at the end of the slope). How should I water the grass after applying it?

I was thinking with the Celcius I was going to do the low-setting first. I have hardly any Bermuda grass that I can see. I'll read the instructions thoroughly of course. Is it possible to reseed the lawn in the summer? I assume I'll have to wait at least 6 weeks to try. Can I apply fertilizers/water to the grass after Celcius treatments to try an promote the Bermuda to come back?

Should I avoid spraying the Celcius on my new patches of Bermuda? I don't see any weeds in it (areas I filled with dirt and put seeds in). Since those plants are young and tender.

My lawn is still awfully uneven, I have several low dips I need to fill but that can be something for next year.

With celcius it is good to go after just a few hours, animal and rain safe. It won't hurt anything that you don't spray it on. If you choose to reseed you will need to wait 6 weeks and if doing the lowest dose of Celcius it will not effect the new patches of bermuda. I went WAYYY over board the first time applying it and the grass yellowed but fully recovered in less than a month.

Whoops thought I put surfacant link in the post with herbicide... http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434552263&sr=8-1&keywords=surfactant

it's mixed with the celcius to help coat the plant and stop it from running off and not absorbing into the leafs.

Herbicides work by being taken up in the leaves or blades. You don't have to saturate the roots. I have killed an entire garden full of bindweed by dipping about 6 inches of it into a jar of RoundUp. That much RoundUp killed the central root.

Do NOT seed into a hybrid bermuda lawn. Once you do it will always look weedy. If you have spots where the bermuda is thin, the reason is most likely due to too much shade. If you are thinking of going with UC Verde, it will not tolerate any shade. Shady areas should be either filled with with another ground cover or turned into other types of gardens.

See I'm not even sure I have Bermuda. I just assumed that's what I had since everyone here says it's either that or St. A. So you think once I weed and long as I water well the original grass will fill back in all nice?

You have bermuda 100% sure. First two pictures you posted have large amounts of overgrown bermuda and the runners jumping across sidewalk are also bermuda. I'm quite confident with the age of your home that you have sodded hybrid bermuda which means no seeding(hybrid is sterile so they dont sell seeds for it, only sod/plugs). Bermuda is known as a weed to most because it grows so fast and chokes all other plants out. But we're lucky enough to have it as our turf and can take advantage of that fact...

So I shouldn't seed new bermuda but rather kill the weeds and let the current bermuda regrow in? Wow I thought the runners were Torpedo Grass!

Are you from Florida? Coastal bermuda is called torpedo grass down there. Coastal is a totally different plant from the others.

Nope, I tried to self-identify my weed problem and that's what a website told me that was. So it' sjust runners of the bermuda I WANT to keep? So it's good if it's spreading/taking root yeah?

I just got my celcius in the mail! I'm just wanting for the surfactant now.

Question!

• My lawn hasn't been mowed in about 7 days, I'd say it's around 2-3'' tall right now, with some weeds being a few inches taller than that. Several of the brown-areas are filling in (we've had a lot of rain the last week and I was watering more often the weeks before).
• Should I mow, wait a few days, and apply or should I let it grow, apply, and then how long should I wait to mow next? Should I apply in the early-morning or late-evening? There needs to be at least a few hours of no-rain I understand, but how about direct-sunlight?

The problem with letting bermuda grow up to 2-3 inches and then mowing it back down to 1 inch is that it gets stemmy when you let it get tall. Then when you mow it all the green part is mowed off leaving only the upright stems. Whereas if you keep it mowed down to an inch or so, it takes on a horizontal growth habit with no upright stems. Then when you mow you're only clipping off the blades growing off the horizontal stems.

I don't use that herbicide, so I would suggest reading and rereading the label. Of course others here can help you. Herbicide labels can be confusing.

If its not too wet go ahead and mow again while you're waiting on surfactant. You'll hear up and down to keep bermuda at an inch or below but this can be un-realistic for some home owners(requires mowing every 2-3 days) and usually a reel mower is required(hand push no gas). It is a fact that bermuda does best short but it can be a lot of work, my neighbors stay at about 3 inches which looks okay but I'm doing about 1.25 inches right now and they are all jealous. You just stick with 2 for now until we get your weeds handled..

As far as the herbicide application, Celcius is basically the ONLY one that can be used in summer with temps over 85 degrees. I usually apply mine at about 8am before its too hot and it has no problems. I would avoid 12-5pm since its the heat of the day. Direct sunlight is fine, wait to water/rain at least 4 hours so it had time to sink in the weeds.

To add onto dchalls comments on mowing, you never want to remove more than 1/3 of the "Green" part of bermuda. So if you are at 3 inches and you mow down to 1 then you are removing 2/3rds of the grass, this will cause areas to look very brown and impede growth. It's best to use the step down method. Mow twice a week taking off 1/2 - 3/4 inch until you are where you want to keep it.

And yes, the runners are a good sign! Most likely you gave it a small boost with weed and feed plus its getting into peak growing season. We'll need to go over proper fertilization but lets get those weeds first!

Read tx_weeds bermuda bible up and down, this is my first year really taking care of my lawn and his write up has changed my lawn drastically in just 3 months...

http://bestlawn.info/the-news/71-bermuda-bible.html

I applied the Celcius yesterday! I might post a video update on my YT Channel today ( YouTube SynFoods )

I applied at at the low (1/2 teaspoon per gallon) plus 2 teaspoons of surfactant. I sprayed about 1-2 feet from the surface with a 2-3 surface spread and did about two passes over each area PLUS I spotsprayed weed patches a little more intensely (I hope that's okay) to ensure they were completely covered.

6/19/15 - 1 day after treatment

6/19/15 - 1 day after treatment

Sounds like you did everything about right... No harm in covering the weeds a little extra, worst case you get a little browning from bermuda in those locations but it will jump back quickly. You are good to resume mowing already, the weeds have absorbed the celcius by now for sure. Also, as I stated before...it might be a week before you see real results. The broadleaf weeds go first(like that nasty one you posted a pic of), the grassy weeds like dallisgrass will go last. And don't be afraid to do another application in 3-4 week to kill off anything remaining. I'm happy you are documenting with photos so well... I forgot to and my yard transformed so quickly. Keep us posted.

Also, I'm 100% sure you can get your yard looking better than your neighbors.... with just a few more weeks of work

...Should I take pictures of my neighbors yards? :3 I think I should.

haha I can see a bit of them in those pics...notice in the second one, your neighbor to the right. Its a healthy yard but got lots of brown patches of healthy grass. That's what we talking about when you mow it shouldn't cut off more than 1/3 of the green or you'll impede growth. It will take a bit to get down to correct height without having any browning but will look great in the end

Thanks! I'm going to take a little video of my yard and the neighbors yard for documentation. I like to document stuff, and I enjoy images/videos XD I like 'utility' reasons for taking video/pictures, no tjust for the sake of it.

Weeds - Day 2 with Celcius - 1 treatment, Low. (Can anyone help me identify them?)

Here's my awful vlog about my lawn progress! Haha. I'll make another video in a week or two concerning the results.

Weed ID as much as I can

2. Unidentified alien life form. I've never seen that. Broadleaf even though it's needly
3. Oxalis or black medic. Broadleaf often called clover but it isn't.
4. dandelion
5. thistle
6. dallisgrass

If 2x per week mowing is not for you, you might look into St Augustine. It requires much less maintenance. Don't let the cost scare you. If you are patient and don't need an instant change over, you could put in one piece of St Aug in the front on each side of the driveway and a couple pieces in the back, overall cost so far is less than $10.00, then just let those grow out into the bermuda. St Aug spreads at about 10 feet per year when the temps are in the 70s. As the St Augustine spreads, the bermuda will go away. If you want to do your bermuda properly, that requires frequent mowing and monthly doses of fertilizer. St Augustine can go 2 weeks before mowing and only needs fertilizer 3x per year. I can tell by looking at your neighbor's lawns that they're not doing frequent fertilizer and likely are mowing too high, too.

Also if you want to keep the HOA away, you should invest in a string trimmer to manicure the edges of your lawn at the concrete. Right now even with a haircut it looks like a bad haircut with the runners trying to escape. I use a battery powered Black & Decker string trimmer. It's perfectly fine and quiet for simple lawn edging.

If you are interested in organic fertilizer, you can save a lot of money by using the raw materials that go into organic fertilizers. I like ordinary corn meal and alfalfa pellets. Both are available in plain brown bags at the feed store. Application rate is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet. After your initial dose you can continue with the same rate or double or triple it without fear of hurting anything. Bermuda can take all the fertilizer you can throw at it. The only glitch with organics is they take a full 3 weeks to see the improvement. So if you're planning a party and the grass is yellowish, fertilize 3 weeks before the party. For your garden plants and veggies, you can put a heaping handful under each plant on a monthly basis.

Oh I have a weed-eater, I always trim/edge on Sundays when I go weed the garden beds. It's to keep me form burning ot bad in the texas sun! Haha. In fact that's what I'm heading out to do now.

Little update!

Looks a little better from this altitude. Does it look better in person?

I better invest in Celius... I think I have a serious problem with Dalisgrass... I tried the usual 2,4-D and it had no effect on them. I miss having St Augustine lawn. Stupid HOA rules. I plugged in zoysia grass but it is sooo slow! I did plug in 'Floratam' for the backyard only but that's about as far as I'm willing to risk without having to deal with HOA. I am even considering growing variegated st augustine in the shady garden under Live Oak trees where the table and chairs are (not very comfortable to walk on mulches barefoot) where it is separated by stone borders.

Yeah Celcius is pretty great. My back yard was 98% dallisgrass, I hit it HARD twice with Celcius... hurt the grass a tiny bit but recovered within 2 weeks and haven't seen any Dallis since. I had mistakenly thought it was crab grass at first and used XLR8... didn't even make a dent..