Wow, you've done a lot of work to dig out that soil! I'm in PNWet of western WA, so know the prolific growth we get of vegetation. I garden in a clearing in the woods & have found it's unnecessary to remove all roots. I just layer up! May I suggest you read the info on this forum about Interbay Mulch? If you don't have access to burlap bags you can use old sheets, tshirts, or tablecloths from your stash, free at garage sales, or from thrift stores. Sometimes, I have put cardboard as the last layer & top that with wood chips. The cardboard moistens & curves to fit the mounds if you slope them gradually. Once our fall rains come again you don't even have to have it covered as long as you have a top layer that is uniform & holds moisture. Arborist wood chips works well if you can get it. We've done several gardens this way & once you get to planting if you find lots of roots or rocks, just remove them from the planting hole. We've layered & layered for years. In some spots I can dig with my hands. I gather all the organic matter I can & just spread it as it comes. If I have too much & no bare soil I make a new compost pile. I do have portable compost bins, but also sheet compost, make huge piles, & compost in place (chop & drop). If I'm energetic I turn a pile. That's especially helpful when you 1st get the pile cooking & before the fall weather cools a lot. Barbara Pleasant's book on composting is helpful because she explains how you can do many methods of composting. I was relieved that she didn't state it was mandatory to have a 3 bin system since I've never managed to have the time or energy to build one. She describes in detail the varied methods that can be done throughout your garden space from her practical experience. I'm building new gardens now & am at the covering the cardboard stage. This part is the grunt work. The planting will be easy!

Hi everyone. rpwalton - You say you've had your pup for 2 weeks and no roots after dipping it in rooting hormone a couple of days prior. I think if you get roots that quick, you could make a fortune marketing whatever product you're using. In the meantime I would suggest you grow a big batch of patience because that's what you're going to need as they won't root that quickly, at least they won't here. naoh123 - Your method of stabilising the pup sounds fine. I don't think it matters how you do it, you just have to prevent the pup from moving. I have found that any pup will be reluctant to put down roots if it isn't firm in the pot or anything its mounted on. I just use 3 bamboo BBQ skewers as stakes to support unstable pups and they work fine. The skewers don't look too good but once there are some roots to keep the pup firm, they can be removed anyway. (Even the bamboo chop sticks you get with Chinese take-away are good as well) See the attached pic showing the BBQ skewers holding up an old (rootless) Bill. sanderiana mother plant. All the best, Nev

Tom, take a 3-4" cutting from the mom tree. Dip in rooting hormone. (optional) You can either use peat pellets, peat pots, or small plastic pots. Fill w/a well-draining soil but add some peat, too. Remove bottom foliage of cutting, leaving only 2-4 leaves on the upper portion. W/a pencil or finger, make a small hole where cutting will slip in after using rooting hormone. Cover hole w/soil so cutting stands erect. Make a make-shift gh by covering w/plastic. Cut a slit in plastic for air vent circulation. Keep cutting in bright light but out of direct sun. If you plan on doing this in winter, then bottom heat in important. That's one reason it's best to attempt cuttings in late spring/summer. As soon as you see new growth, slowly remove plastic. The first day, remove about an hour and work your way up until there's no need for the plastic. The soil should be barely moist, not totally dry but not wet either. Misting helps, too.. One reason I like peat pellets is cuttings do not need to be removed after roots set..after roots are established, the entire ball goes directly in a growing pot. When plant is ready to be set in a pot, a 4" pot is best. You can also add a mild solution of fertilizer and a product called Superthrive (hormone/vitamin) to the cutting/s. Both stimulate root growth. Good luck Toni

Does it work only with suckers and will branches work too? I ask because I have a branch in water for 3 or 4 weeks now, it looks very green and healthy - but no roots at all. My basil roots fine under the same condition. And what water you use? My rain water has a Ph a bit below 5, very acidic. I usually add a little NaOH to bring it up to 6.0. I also add a little liquid fertilizer. On top of that I have an air stone in the container. I wonder what water is best to use for rooting?