Well, your situation is neither unique nor a show-stopper. There are two ways of going about solving the problem, and hatchjon has suggested one: ammending with organic matter. The reason some suggest this is because they have been told, or read, or observed through experience that organic matter improves tilth, drainage, and fertility. While this is not incorrect, it is not necessarily the case for all soils in all locations. For instance, adding organic matter to a sandy soil will do little to help because a full season of irrigation and rain will wash away most of the OM ammendment (unless we are talking about over 50% additions, but that would be a few truckloads). With heavy clay, organic matter ammendments are going to have difficulty penetrating the clay, and will likely suffer the same problems as with the sand. If you are blessed with a sandy-loam, or a sandy-clay soil, then yes, generous amounts of organic matter will make a difference in the long run. I say in the long run, because you will need to add generous amounts of compost/OM each year for the first 3 to 5 years. The reason being that as the OM is broken down, it is carried into the subsoil by erosion and by soil organisms (including worms). This does create a better tilth in theory, but in practice those yards of compost that you added last year will be so dispersed through the large volume of soil in various strata that it will seem to have made little progress. Each year, adding a not insignificant amount of OM, you will see some progress. Finally, after 3 to 5 years, you will probably stabilize the soil at around 3-5% OM level, with a reasonable improvement in the soil structure. If you can wait and have the patience (and the time to till in a few yards of compost every year) then by all means go ahead. If you can't, there is an easier solution, albeit more expensive and less "romantic" - have a dumptruck dump half a dozen yards of sandy-loam triple-mix garden soil onto your plot, and build some raised beds. They don't need to be the fancy boxed beds, and they don't need to be very deep. 8-10 inches should suffice. Then, at the beginning and end of each year, you mix in a few inches of compost/OM into the surface. Combine that with a good, complete organic fertilizer and you will have some soil to be proud of. The maintenance of that soil is important, but that is another discussion altogether. Best of luck! Michael Here is a link that might be useful: Complete Organic Fertilizer Recipe

Mindy has voiced her frustration about this issue on more than one occasion and l believe she has a valid point. I do think however that her frustration may be misdirected I think it should be addressed to Garden Web powers that be directly, after all the fix is so easy if when a new member is completing their profile for the first time zone and region was mandatory this would not be an issue. Mindy I would suggest you contact GW and make that suggestion or write a post giving members instructions on how they can add their zone and region feel free to edit for clarity what I have written below. If you are a woman with a mission you might post those instructions on each and every forum, or at least those you spend time at. Katy At the very bottom of this page in the green bar select Member Services This will open GardenWeb Members page, select If you are a member already, please log in! (note that you may need to do this even if you are already logged in) This will open your Members page, select Edit Your Personal Information, Page, and Preferences (note you will be asked to log in againÂwhat can I say itÂs GardenWeb) you will now be able to edit your member profile. Below gender you can add your Garden Zone and region (mine for example is z7aMA.) If you do not know what your zone is now would be a good time for you to find out and GW makes this easy by providing a link Find Your Zone enter your zip code and wala GardenWeb will tell you what your zone isÂ

Sorry, have to split blackberries and raspberries into two distinct groups, as they require very different culture here (zone 3). What are Juneberries... are they saskatoons? If so, they ripen July in my climate, so Julyberries :) Raspberries - 5FE Blackberries - 5FH (blackberries need to be really soft to develop peak flavour and can't be shipped that way, so in my zone it's grow your own with serious winter protection, or buy the often sour, hard kinds available in stores). Blackcurrants -- haven't tried enough to rate, currant worms are a big proboem here. Haskap - 2FM - Too sour for my liking when I grew them myself, though I have had okay ones given to me. I ripped my plants out. I rated them M instead of E only because I had trouble getting a good fruit set. Blueberries - 5FH -- I haven't actually grown them, but I do like them, and I rated them H because our soils here are naturally high pH, also for winter hardiness issues in zone 3. Gooseberries -- 5FH -- I love fresh red gooseberries, but currant-worms are a huge issue here, thus the H rating. I grew them years ago but pulled them after total defoliation from currant worms. Thinking of trying them again but wrapping them from leaf-out to harvest. Juneberries... if these are saskatoons, then 5FE.

I am not sure what the spots are, but it could possibly be a mechanical damage that is healing over. Maybe it was 'attacked' by a kitty? -:) or some sharper object fell over? The largest spot - is it soft? Just pay attention to that one for any sign of mushiness - softness. As pointed out already, rocks on bottom don't help. Adding lots of perlite (50%) to cacti/succulent soil will help. If you have small gravel, you could mix that in too, maybe 35-40% each of perlite and gravel, rest cacti soil. Or take advanrtage of andy's offer - Turface is light, shouldn't be too much for postage. I wouldn't waste $ on moisture meter/gauge, unless you are serious indoor gardener with lots of plants and greenhouse and get the really good (and expensive) one. Fungus gnats are around since there is lots of organic matter in wet/damp soil. So replacing it should help. Their larvae wouldn't cause the spots on your plant. Eash the roots off all soil, cut off all damaged or slimy/mushy/blackened (if any), and repot into better draining mix. Keep the plant out of strongest sunlight for few days. It is good idea to add zone/general location (see andy's post-name) besides your name, so maybe better tips could be given.