Trees of that age would require professional transplanting, in all likelihood. The larger (and older) trees are, the less able they are to transplant well and re-establish into a new location. It can certainly be done, but experts who know about preparation and who have the proper equipment are expensive. What is the DIAMETER (not the circumference) of the trunk at about chest high? With that information, I can give you a general idea of the size of the root ball required and even how much it might weigh. If this were my dilemma, I'd plant some new trees in a more appropriate location, and enjoy watching them grow and prosper.

Toni: I looked it up and hereÂs what I found: The fruit: Origin California, USA: a hybrid mandarin recently developed by the US Department of Agriculture. It is a cross between Fortune clementine and Fremont mandarin. Imported into Australian quarantine 1991 and first released to selected nurserymen in 1995. Type Early to mid season maturity, seedy. Market Fresh, domestic. Very different in appearance to Imperial mandarin and would enter the market several weeks after the beginning of Imperial season. May have export potential due to highly coloured skin, good eating qualities and an extended marketing period from on-tree storage. Daisy juice is also highly palatable with a complex flavour. Internal quality Very good flavour with little rag and a sugar:acid ratio which has received favourable comments from preliminary taste testing. Acid levels do not decline significantly as the fruit ages on the tree. This helps to maintain flavour over a long period. The internal characteristics can be explained by the parentage of Daisy. Fremont (clementine x Ponkan mandarin) is an early, sweet mandarin. Fortune (clementine x Dancy mandarin), is a very late, high acid mandarin type and the blending of these two have produced an early/mid season, good quality mandarin. Seed number ranges from 15-20 per fruit. Segments separate easily. External quality Fruit is medium to large (6-8cm in diameter), round with smooth skin. Skin thickness is 4mm and is not difficult to remove. Skin colour is red-orange and almost 'glossy' in appearance. Fruit will hang on the tree for a long period without an obvious deterioration in external appearance. Internal quality begins to deteriorate by mid August in the Sunraysia region.

Usually just the tips and not more that 1/3 the length when pushing it from what I've heard. If any are diseased, just keep the healthy parts. As for fitting them through all the holes, l'm not so sure about that. It is better to mostly get the roots to chase the water IMO. Just putting the roots in the net pot with a medium like expanded clay (hydroton) should do much of the trick since it wets by itself wicking solution up when barely sitting in the top of the water level. You don't want to drown roots, especially those injured from cutting and having a lot in the more oxygenated medium is better than under water - by far. Others may have better experience with what to do with the roots for a big plant, but I would prefer to cut out part of the bottom nd bring a braid of fluffed out root if I had no other choice, and let the plant do the rest. Since you may have a large plant it might be more complicated. Maybe a different medium like a simple perlite bag system, but that's just mulling. My experience was with different plants and although the roots served their purpose initially, my plants eventually developed new white roots and the older ones eventually dissolved away anyway in a great part which as old organic matter provided microbe food, especially those that were under the water level. But I'm just one data point...

Where are you located? Eg. California. I ask because that can make a difference in climate and other things like watering necessity. Also do you know what type of soil you have? Heavier soils need less watering. The yellowing leaves could be due to a couple different things like overwatering/root rot (hopefully not) or like the previous poster said just a hungry tree. They do need a lot of fertilizer; if you like somewhere with alkaline soils like most of California then acidic fertilizers (like for camelias) works well, and the Osmocote Plus is a good recommendation too. I believe it is slow release so provides a gradual feeding and less chance or fertilizer burn.