You are right it is a NOID plant, meaning it has no I.D. or petigree as a variety. So you'll never find it listed anywhere. But, you may find a few close to it (maybe close to the parent plants used in the cross) But, it should never be identified as one variety, or another. Just enjoy it for what it is...different but, pretty! But, still a noid! The African Violet Society of America frowns badly on naming a plant as a variety when it's not offically I.D'ed, or registered with The AV Society of America as such. And is considered dishonest to do so. Your plant was probably one of a thousand random genetic crosses when grown from seed, and the breeder sold the rejected plants for whatever reason, but, usually becaue they saw it as genetically inferior for whatever they were looking to accomplish as a new variety. So, the breeder sold them on the open market rather than destroy the whole crop of a thousand plants. Just for the sake of one or two plants for further cross breeding. (money, money money !) So each baby plant is/was slightly different from it's siblings, yet still unstable genetically. they were they not named or registered! Which costs $$$ and time to do! Even though each plant will grow, flower, and be healthy other wise, it's just not a named variety.. I once had an AV that was a named variety at the time, that had all white, with blue speckled flowers, and varigated leaves which grew this way for years. Then SUDDENLY one day it changed! It changed to all white, with blue speckled flowers, and varigated leaves on exactly half of the plant, and dark blue flowers, and dark leaves on exactly half of the opposite half of the AV! You could actually see the dividing line exactly down the middle of the two types on this plant! Even to any flowers on the dividing line were half white/speckled and half Dk blue! Leaves, on the dividing line were exactly half varigated, half dk green! It was weird to look at! But, so cool! That was back in the 1970's BTW, The African Violet Society of America (or AVSA for short) has a huge A-Z research library of named varieties on they're website that you can research offical pictures, and discriptions of named varieties that are accepted as genuine varieties, and registered with them as such. You can become a member if you like for a membership fee, and they also offer an AV picture and discription data base on computer disc which has monthly updates that can be downloaded . Also for a fee. The AVSA is considered the Hall mark of recognized varieties. And is the final word on AV varieties. You can even breed your own type of new plant, or color combination, etc. and if you can get that specific plant's genetic's to remain stable for 3-4 generations from seed, you can then name it anything you wish, and register it with The AVSA. There are local AV groups in your area you can join that will have AV shows, with plants, cuttings, seeds, etc. for sale cheaper than anywhere else! Also state wide shows with other groups in each state, America wide shows, and International AV shows, and expo's. just like dog or cat petigree shows, (but without all the barking, meowing, leashes, flying hair, and cages!) AVSA will have all that info, with pictures, and more on they're website for you! They may still have a seed exchange library still available free to members. I hope that explanation, and information helps you.

Ilovemytrees, I didn't realize that voles ate the roots of trees? They have wreaked havoc on some of my beloved native perennial roots this year though, despite the fact that my cat has killed DOZENS of them this summer. I haven't done too much for trees, except the first winter after planting some expensive Emerald Green Arborvitae, I wrapped them with bird netting to keep the deer from munching. Just did that one year though, and the deer haven't bothered them even without bird netting. If the deer are really hungry, they have numerous meatball and meatloaf Yews to eat in the neighbor's yard, which they seem to like even more than Arborvitae. I do protect some veggies with wire fencing that has a 2x4 inch grid. Cut it down to the desired height and encircle the plants. I also leave sharp pokey wire ends sticking up to deter deer and woodchucks. This works very well, although I have to be careful not to skewer myself! This type of fencing would probably work equally well for trees.

I found this link that might help: Posted by gardenguru1950 SunsetZ16 (My Page) on Sat, Aug 8, 09 at 13:06 The most common "eater" of rose leaves in California is the Bristly Rose Slug, the larvae of the Rose Sawfly. The sawfly is a pudgy little wasp. It lays its eggs on the UNDERSIDES of the leaves and the caterpillars feed on the UNDERSIDES of the leaves. The rose slug is tiny, no more than 1/4-inch long and very slender, and it's the exact same pale green as the undersides of the leaves. Talk about hard to see and find! It's the critter that "skelotinizes" rose leaves. It's pretty easy to get rid of, actually. Almost any good spray will do the job: insecticidal soap, Neem, pyrethrum. The trick is to spray thoroughly UNDER the leaves. Not stand back and spray all over. You have to get UNDER the leaves. By the way, a commonly suggested spray for rose sawfly is BT. It doesn't work. It doesn't work because it's meant for the caterpillars of moths and butterflies. The rose slug is the larvae of a wasp. And I'm not sure of any beneficial insect that preys upon it. As for your rose buds, Applenut has a good idea. Go outside late at night with a flashlight. The critter most likely is an earwig, sowbug or pillbug. It also might be a slug or snail. Joe Here is a link that might be useful: Bugs that eat roses' leaves

Okay. Caterpillars are easy, but neem doesn't work so great against them. Get some BtK (Bacillus thuringienisis var. kurstaki). Don't know about brands in your part of the world, but it's very common. Over here, it goes by names like Caterpillar Killer, Dipel, Thuricide, etc. and comes in both liquid and dust form. That will take care of them, if you're sure they're caterpillars (I can't see the caterpillars at the photo resolution available). Bt is very specific in what it kills, and it only kills lepidopteran larvae, i.e., larvae of butterflies and moths. If it's not caterpillars, it won't do anything. Which is good news for pollinators and beneficial predator bugs. The caterpillars have to eat the Bt. It works by attacking their gut once they ingest it. It's not a contact poison. So be sure to spray/dust all surfaces of the plant and both tops and undersides of leaves. It won't burn your plants if you apply in the day, but UV will inactivate it fairly quickly, so spraying in the late afternoon/evening is best, especially since a lot of caterpillars feed more actively at night. Good luck!