Can redgard be used as a membrane under composite deck?
chips4000
8 years ago
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PROBy Any Design Ltd.
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI have used it as temporary protection only.
Red Guard is not one of my favourite options in waterproofing membranes. The deck above is waiting on a custom timber job. Should be going in some time next month or the month after that. The Red Guard acting as a back up membrane under the tarps that have been in place a year now almost. This deck will get some cement board then Noble Company's NobleDeck. Then tile and grout.
There are a number of primary waterproofing membranes now a days that are approved but net out in the 60 mil thickness - in the roll on kinds. You also have Torch On as an option.
Typically a deck is exposed to the elements. Why the plywood? Why the need for waterproofing?
chips4000
8 years agoRelated Discussions
UltraDeck (Menards) composite decking?
Comments (150)Just use normal wood decking —————————————————— (Wood cedar / treated) Pros Easier to repair -Can refinish to a different color at a later date -Has options for hidden fastener (camo is the name I think) -Stain or paint yourself/ contractor so no issues with finish -Cheaper than “composite” decking even if you decide to do cedar -Has a warranty Cons -Can rot, split, warp -Maintenance restaining or sealing —————————————————— (Composite decking “Ultradeck”) Pros -according to menards should not split crack or warp (seems like it does do this a lot though) -pre finished -Has a warranty Cons -Expensive -Often has issues with finish -Hard/ impossible to touch up if decking gets scratched or scraped -Often cracks splits warps (sometimes issue gets resolved) -Will fade (Color will fade in first month) which makes a replacement board look a different color down the road -Wood based composite up to 50% real wood —————————————————— Feel free to add any other pros or cons you think missed...See MoreUsing a grill mat on a composite deck
Comments (9)Point well taken but what's the difference if we're talking about composite or wood? If someone wants to protect the deck surface from grease stains they'd have to take some measure anyway, regardless of what the deck is made out of. Wood will stain, fade, warp, etc. and if a mat is placed on wood, damage can occur under the mat from moisture that sneaks under---and it too will fade differently than the unprotected parts of the deck. No matter how you cut it, it's true that composite or PVC is not 100% free of maintenance. But it's also true that on average, it requires far less routine maintenance than wood does. Always comes down to what you like the look of and/or what you can afford. I happen to like both materials. I'm going to try composite for the new deck I'm having built and hope for the best. I enjoyed our last wood deck---but was a little disappointed with how quickly it weathered. In less than a year, it was showing a little too much wear and tear and splintering. It was fully functional, but deteriorating more quickly than it should have. I did have it sealed. The IPE is a different story---much richer looking and nicer, but it's not cheap and it's not maintenance free either....See MoreRedgard to set redgard fabric membrane strip?
Comments (3)Well, I have to preface this by writing that I don't use any of the GP gypsum core or Dens-anything products in wet areas. But the last time I saw DensShield, it was a gray panel. Now the color could be off in your photo, however, that looks like regular ol' green papered moisture resistant drywall. Unless things have changed recently, MR-drywall has not been approved as a tile backer board in a wet area even when covered with RedGard. Here's a link to RedGard installation instructions. Two things: 1) Note that under Suitable Substrates: that gypsum board is not listed a suitable substrate for RedGard. Understand that "Gypsum based cement topping" has nothing to do with drywall or any type of gypsum panel. 2) Note that under RedGardî as General Waterproof Membrane (ANSI 118.10) that from your description he is treating the seams properly: Applying RedGard into the joint, then fabric over the RedGard, then more RedGard to smooth it all out. RedGard normally isn't used over DensShield because the face of Denshield itself is water impermeable. That's why the DensShield instructions would have you thinset and mesh tape the seams. With all that written? If this is RedGard over moisture resistant gypsum board or "green board", I'd have it ripped out. Green board as a tile backer board in a shower is a code violation. If it's RedGard over DensShield, then I'd say no worries. The RedGard and fabric seams will be more protected from moisture than the thinset and mesh taped seams. It's your shower, so you could call GP tech support and ask them about RedGard over DensShield to get a warm fuzzy. If you do, I'd love to hear what they have to say just for future reference. If it is DensShield, make sure all seams get fabric and RedGard, and that any remaining exposed panel edges and fastener heads are hit with RedGard to seal them. You don't want moisture getting into the core of the DensShield panel. Good luck!...See MoreQuestion about using the Kerdi system in conjunction with Redgard.
Comments (18)The bronze drain used on a copper pan comes in two parts. The lower part has a screw thread to accept a threaded 2" PVC adapter that gets glued over the 2" PVC waste water pipe in the floor after the the wide flange at the top is soldered to the copper pan. There is another internal thread that takes the screw in top part of the drain with the strainer that lets you adjust the finished height of the drain so that it's level with your shower mud and tile. Before you start the mud job some gravel should be placed around the exposed threads to stop the mud clogging them. Any water that gets into the pan is supposed to drain out via the threads, but I bet a lot just sits there. Copper pans are really yesterday's technology, which is why I'm using mine as a backstop and mostly as a container for the mud job as I went over the entire shower enclosure and over the curb and 3" onto the bathroom floor with Hydroban. For the floor tile backing the contractor used 3/4" plywood over the old 1" thick floor planks and topped that off with NobleSeal TS membrane to resist cracking. I think usage is a factor often ignored as to how a shower performs over time. I know it's a bit of a pain , but If you make take 2 mins to dry the shower walls and floor after each shower is really keeps it clean and minimizes the time water has to get through the grout. Also a rain shower head in combination with a shower curtain inside the curb keeps the curb and where it meets the wall nice and dry and that's often where there are failures....See Morechips4000
8 years agoUser
8 years ago
PROCreative Tile Eastern CT
8 years agoMongoCT
8 years ago
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
8 years agosloyder
8 years ago
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