your brother had the same graduation date as my younger brother... you must still miss him... first ideas that came to my mind was also a birdhouse... mosaiced, with a few keys in places, with local little pebbles, from the river, moss from your backyard trees... little branches and any found things from your property.. if possible, his car license plate for the roof of the bird house.... second idea was to get several 6" tiles, from like Home Depot or Lowes...and make a frame around the door of one of doors at your house/cabin...in a Spanish idea they could be attached with some ready mixed grout/adhesive, with things attached to the tiles, in a mosaic idea but not necessarily grouted.. just bits and pieces, again, with the keys and found articles from the area, where you live.. tiles will be available in either white or an antiqued color..I've been painting the ones I have and firing them, so one day I can either do the door frame, like I mentioned or the back splash along the kitchen counter.. I love anything PNW, in art work...shells, rocks, glass, rust, ...I would do my entire house on the outside, if I had the stamina to do it...lol Becky....Olympia

Well the fins on the flywheel, revolving inside the tin shroud, are what makes the cooling air to flow around the cylinder and the rest of the engine! With that part removed, the flow of air will not cool the cylinder and block, and serious damage will soon result! Bite the bullet, and take the shroud to a mower repair place, and have it fixed. Pay the price! A tiller machine, will be expensive to replace, where as a fix will be cheap in comparison! Maybe you didn't damage it, but i wouldn't bet on it!

I don't have any books for this engine. I do have a new condenser for it but any magneto engine condenser will work. First you must remove the flywheel and here you will find the coil and condenser. Below the right side of the carburetor is a small cover that 2 screws hold on. This is where the points were on mine. To remove the flywheel, loosen the nut so the nut is flush with the end of the crankshaft and hit it with a brass hammer. This will loosen the flywheel off the tapered crankshaft. While into the condenser, unscrew the wire that connects to the condenser. If you don't have an original type condenser to replace with, tape over the wire end so it can't short out. The old condenser can be removed. Put the flywheel back on. If you get nearly any condenser from a magneto type engine that can be mounted on the engine like under a flywheel cover mounting bolt that will ground it, then this condenser wire can be connected to the wire that comes down from the coil and goes to the points. This is about the best I can tell you.

"The Owner's Manual suggests that a warm engine restart "may" not need choke." "The present generation of carburetted OPE has such lean operating parameters (thank you EPA and C.A.R.B.) that I think it may become more common for the need to apply choke (or partial choke) to restart even a warm engine." mownie has it right. I have a new 30hp Kohler Command Pro that has to be choked just about every time I crank if it sets longer then 15 or 20 minutes. Use to drive me nuts. But oh does it run! I've a buddy of mine that has a 28hp Kholer EFI that starts hot, cold, and even in the snow. Just the way it is. ms