IR, Seems to me you are depending on the suction lift being 41 ft so that you can reach the top of your 33 vertical feet of elevation to the lawn & Garden. 41 feet of suction is unrealistic. Here is what I would do since you already have the pump. Trial and error is always a good thing. Try your pump at different locations up the slope. Find your optimum point where suction is manageable and not too excessive and pressure to the system the greatest. Gonna have to buy the pipe and fittings anyway just don't make it permanent until you find that ideal pump location. I would start with 10 feet of vertical elevation from the lake and go higher by 5 foot increments. Also use a larger diameter pipe to decrease the friction loss from the long pipe length. JMHO Aloha

Don't know how old your system is and/or the type of solenoid valves you have, o r if you've fixed this problem. If you haven't had this problem before, and the system has some age (over 6 years old) you are probably dealing with one or two bad diaphragms. I don't recommend replacing the whole valve unless it was purchased at the "depot" or lowe's (if so replace). But if it's a Hunter, Rainbird, or Irritrol I would replace just the diaphragm, and actually all of them if the valves are easily accessable. The valves most likely were installed at the same time, and if you're having these type of problems, the other zones will soon follow. Converting the Pressure switch to a pump start relay is a good upgrade, but you still need to address this problem. Also, if you would have had this type of pump control, there is a good chance you would've never known about this problem until your grass turned. I've been an irrigation service tech for 14 years and this is one of the most common repairs. Also one of the least expensive also, as a diaphragm or rebuild kit for most makes of 1" soleniod valves are under $10.00 each. Hope this helps.

I'm having a hard time understanding some of what you are saying. If I understand which pump you have, it's going to be drawing over 19 amps continuous when wired for 115v. You shouldn't be putting that on a 20A circuit, The breaker and the wiring would need to be larger. The other option would be to run the pump on 230V (it has that option I think), in which case it would work fine on a 15A (or larger) circuit. Yes, the dryer should never have been split across two breakers. It would be surprising it even worked as an electric clothes dryer would trip a 20A breaker in short order. The other scary thing is what appears to be 12G wire connected to the other side of the 40A breaker. This is a MASSIVE no-no and could cause a fire. The green wire should definitely be connected to the ground bus. Note that a detached garage with multiple circuits like this ABSOLUTELY requires its own grounding system (rods). Depending on when this was constructed and what else is connected between the house and the garage, it is required that this panel be fed with separate grounds and neutrals and maintains those separate (yours are not). The current code requires it to be separate (even if there are no other wires or pipes between the structures). If the panel is spec'd for the GE thin breakers, you can use them. There's no performance difference really. They make specific handle ties to allow you to feed 240V loads with them. Note that both thin breakers fit on the same 120V leg, so you need to use two thins that are in different "thick" positions and then use the handle tie to join them together (they make ones that do two adjacent breakers or noes that reach around the two inner breakers and get the outer breaker, if you catch what I am satin).

I'm trying to irrigate a garden plot that is 70' above and 700' away from a creek at the bottom of my land. I understand that I need a pump with over 70' total head in order to raise the water from the creek to the garden, but I'm wondering how much the output (GPM) and water pressure will be affected by the change in elevation. I've considered building risers for some 300-gallon water tanks, filling them from the pump line and then running sprinklers from hoses attached to the outlet valves of those tanks, but I need to know whether the pressure from gravity-fed hoses will be sufficient to run impact sprinklers. Would it be a better idea to connect the pump down the hill directly to the sprinklers and skip the storage step altogether? If so, what specifications should I be looking for in a pump to deliver the required pressure? One last question: Most pumps I've found that deliver 100+ gallons of water per minute have 2" inlets and outlets, but based on my research 700' of 2" poly pipe is going to put me out two or three times the price of a pump. The same length of 1" pipe costs significantly less, but will using adapters at the pump inlet/outlet and running smaller hose adversely affect the output of the pump? Thanks, David