In looking at a head, I can't think that there would be room for that style poppet valve. You may have to bore into the exhaust bolt hole nearest to the plug, use a hollow retaining bolt and tie something into that. Or though the valve cover ... It is true that there are some C/R failures - but mostly they don't function from improper valve lash and set up from what I see.

Thanks a lot for your input Tom; I've never seen one of these heads removed, and hadn't thought about the problem of routing a cable through the valve cover without leaks.
I think an electrically-activated C.R. might not be so hard to seal. Passing the wires through the head casting right next to the cover might be a better bet, with a connector permanently mounted to the outside.
I have some problems with the idea of a compression release on a hollow exhaust bolt, vis-a-vis the hole size and the bolt strength both being adequate to perform their required functions. Possibly something like a banjo bolt to replace the head bolt, and use the bolt-clearance passage in the head for the gas passage, but that's getting pretty involved.

I'll go back and re-re-check my valve settings tomorrow, though with under 50 hours on the engine they really shouldn't need adjustment.
And the refusal to crank past TDC was a very sudden development.

Thanks again, Mark

Very possibly one of the the rocker studs have come loose. lots of good reading on valve and head problems on the forum.

Nope; thanks for the suggestion, but the rocker studs are fine; both valve clearances at 1/4" after TDC are .005/.006 inches; intake valve lift is about .310", exhaust valve lift is about .320"; using a dial indicator I see no sign of a "bump" in the travel of either valve, which someone else said should be pretty easy to observe if the compression release is working.

I think I'll buy a used head and see if I can figure out a way to put a real compression release in it. (I have a milling machine in the basement.) If so, I will post it here and possibly on You Tube. (Never tried that before.)

I have got no response from Briggs & Stratton to a support request which I emailed them, asking if they would extend their warranty for me due to the circumstances.

Set the intake at .003

Yes, Intake valve setting is critical as it is the one utilized for compression release. Perhaps you could use Detailed Valve Adjustment Instructions. . IF you would like them, address below , put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

This engine does use a camshaft which is prone to compression release breakage. IF you are certain this is the problem, I would look for a junked 28, 31 or 33 series engine and salvage the camshaft. Many of these are junked with thrown rods. Check that camshaft is not bent.

Walt Conner

wconner5 at frontier dot com

Hi Walt, thanks for the advice.

Having read one account of a person who replaced the camshaft 4 times in 5 years, and one who got 17.4 hours on his new camshaft before failure, I am really trying to get around the factory compression release entirely.
I'm also considering mounting a bastardized automobile starter next to the stock starter and coupling them with a V-belt or a chain, so I don't need a compression release at all.
I know either of these will be more work than simply replacing the camshaft, but I would really like for it to be reliable for years to come.
Though you now have me worried that it will throw a rod next.

BTW, B&S did finally get back to me about my request for an extension on my warranty; they said "... it would be at our
dealer's discretion to request a Policy Adjustment through his area
Representative if a defect in material or workmanship from the factory
is found beyond the warranty period. If you are looking for any
out-of-warranty coverage, please take the unit to a local authorized
dealer. ..."
So I guess I'll talk to my closest dealer and see what he thinks is likely to happen. If I let the dealer repair it and B&S just covers the cost of parts, then I'm still stuck with a big bill for labor.

It would be simpler to remove the flywheel screen and put a pulley on there to a big starter than try to tandem a starter with original.

Old 2 cylinder John Deere tractors used a simple petcock as a compression release. Not sure how you would go about installing one of these.

What I would do is find a used early 31 series forged camshaft and install that, will fit.

Walt Conner

I machined a flat through the fins edgewise, and into the downward-facing side of the head. It's relatively thick there, and I drilled through to come out right next to the intake valve. The compression release is too short to interfere with the valve even when fully extended, and hopefully there's enough "meat" left around the C.R. to keep the head from warping.

The head bolts sit pretty close on each side of the C.R., so I'm hoping they'll provide enough pressure to create a good seal, but I have not yet installed the "new" head so I don't know for sure.

I'll let you know how it works out; meanwhile keep your fingers crossed for me!

Yes, keep us in the loop!

Okay, I'm pretty lazy about communication, and I apologize for not reporting back sooner.

The compression release is working fine so far. I only have 3 or 4 hours on it so far, and I still have trouble coordinating my hand on the release lever with my hand on the ignition key, but when I get them right, it starts right up.

I'm a bit concerned about the long-term effect on the intake valve seat, because my pilot-drill hole for the compression release did actually hit the seat insert. No damage, but it doesn't leave much aluminum next to the seat in one spot. Time will tell if it matters, but I still have the original head for backup if it goes cattywampus on me. I think I could do a cleaner installation next time.

I tried doing a video on the procedure, but it kind of stinks and I am loathe to post it.

The decompression blip on the camshaft wore off or broke. B&S told me to take the mower to a B&S dealer who would fix it!! Not wanting to have a repeat of the problem as others have reported here....I shoved another head gasket in to decompress it a little, that is 2 gaskets in total. I torqued it up a bit tighter to avoid gasket blow-out. Worked....now starts over compression with no noticeable loss of power even though the BMEP is a bit less. (16HP INTEK engine).

Hello...........I just ran across this statement. I realize the statement is 4 years old............but I'm hoping "dsbird" or someone else might have an answer to my question. I too, have a problem with my Intek not wanting to make it past "compression," and I was looking for a "work around" when I ran across this. "dsbird" states that "I torqued it up a bit tighter to avoid gasket blow-out," and I was wondering if someone might advise me as to how much "tighter" to go as I try this "double head gasket" manuver to see if it will work for me as well ? Thank you : )

Just in case anyone's still interested; the manual compression release I installed in my head (yes, it was painful) is still working fine after 5 years of fairly light use maintaining an acre of "lawn".

In the winter, it's still kind of borderline; if I don't keep the battery on a battery maintainer, it still doesn't make it past TDC in cold weather, but as long as the battery's fully charged there's no problem.. (I'm just guessing, but I think around the mid-forties is the cutoff.)

( I couldn't remember how to post this with a connection to the original discussion instead of as a comment to Hu-118's post.)

I just ordered two head gaskets to lower compression a bit and while doing so noted that the gaskets are sold as a pair also. Just as one would mill the head for more compression two gaskets should hopefully work to reduce it. When I swapped cams I realize why the kit only cost $27. It was from China. The B & S cam kit goes for $99. I don't know why an engineer would design this CR flyweight junk instead of just upgrading the starter to handle the compression. Glad your MCR is working!

Great post. I own a small engine repair shop in North Georgia and was considering doing this on a honda gx390. Your pictures gave me insight on how to do this. Thank you.

Also do you know of an electric activated compression release? Thanks

https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+activated+compression+release&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I got rid of a mower because of this problem. I wish that I had been aware of this solution back then. The simplest way to reduce compression is to momentarily restrict the air intake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggV0wS6VMSs

take off air filter, cover intake with your hand to reduce compressioin

I tried that....didn`t work.....