I use HastaGro 6-12-6 Plant Food. It was recommended to me by our county extension agent and it its great. I use it for foliar feeding and tradition fertilizing. It is a concentrate so the gallon lasts quite awhile.

http://www.medinaag.com/product_details.php?pid=Mzg=

Of the 3 choices you list I wouldn't use any of them as my beds are well established and rich in compost so don't need them. Do you know for a fact that your mix/fill is deficient in N-P-K?

But if I had to choose between them I'd pick the Ultra Green simply because it is not organic and in new beds like yours it is almost impossible to have a sufficient soil food web and micro-herd for non-soluble organic fertilizers to work. Plus the Ultra Green, even though it is overly high in P (phosphorus), is slow release and contains micro-nutrients and they are just as important as N-P-K.

If your beds were well established with a good micro-herd and high in organic matter then I'd pick the Kelloggs for the mycorrhizae.

Choice of fertilizer all depends on what the nutrient levels of whatever the beds are filled with, how micro active they are, and how you plan to use it.

IMO of the products listed on the HD website the best quality product for new beds is Kellogg-Garden-Organics-32-oz-Fish-Kelp-Liquid-Fertilize

Dave

Dave, my current garden bed recipe for the 4' x 8' x 18" boxes are now being established with about 60% loam nonactive soil, 8 cf blended aged steer manure, 3 cf peatmoss, and dare I say 5 cf Miracle Grow for vegetables. I know the MG is sneered at by most pros but I have it onsite now so it's going into the mix! Still think the Kellog you mention is best?

Miracle Gro soil is of very poor quality. Visit the Container Gardening forum for a long list of comments and even product reviews (but not the Scotts website - check HD or Lowe's).

I personally favor Kellogg's products but doubt you will need much of anything. Your MG soil is loaded with ferts. Whatever you do get, make sure it has calcium. This will help with blossom end rot.

< 60% loam nonactive soil, 8 cf blended aged steer manure, 3 cf peatmoss, and dare I say 5 cf Miracle Grow for vegetables.>

That is a lot of cf for that size bed! Sure you need all that? No access to non-manured compost to mix 1/2 and 1/2 with the steer manure?

But with that mix you won't have an active food web for several months. Yes, if you think you need something then the Kellogg I linked above is still the best (of what is available at HD) because it is a liquid not a dry granular. Dry granular organics won't work without the micro-herd. Liquids will. Note I am not saying that it is the best fertilizer out there, merely the best on the HD website.

So the Kelloggs Liquid if you want organics, the Ultra Green if you don't care that it is synthetic. But if you'd find a good source of compost to add then your fish emulsion is likely all your need.

Dave

Far too many variables in this mix to add anything without seeing where you are at by testing. Most critical in my view are Calcium and Magnesium to bring pH and those nutrients into balance. Forget about micro nutrients when macros are so questionable. It is quite likely that you already have excessive NPK with what you've already added. Excesses can be worse than deficiencies.

After determining your needs I would suggest the cheapest nutrients available- forget about brand names. Consider pulverized or pelitized limestone for Calcium, dolomitic limestone if extra Magnesium is needed. Based on what you added you don't want any preplant Nitrogen. You can always add Calcium Nitrate (water soluble) later in the season.

Given what you've already put in the beds, you many not need much at all - I'd buy the cheapest bag and use it very sparingly.

Im looking for a fertilizer to supplement as needed. This is NOT to add for my starter boxes. From what I understand the Miracle Grow lasts three months and then I need to start fertilizing my plants. Am I missing something?

Dave,

<<<No access to non-manured compost to mix 1/2 and 1/2 with the steer manure?>>

The steer manure is a blended aged steer compost. Yes, all that stuff fits into the box! Here's a photo. I got it at HD for $1.15 for a 1 cf bag, with a few bonus flies too!

I like "Ultra Green" better. I would buy it IF it has Calcium in it. Otherwise MG blue water soluble (24 - 8- 16 )is my regular choice . That is 48% combined fertilizer. I just use it at about 1/3 strength, mostly on my potted tomatoes filled with 5-1-1 soil.

Sey

i think non organic fertilizer gets a bad reputation because of how its used commercially
i think it you keep addind organic matter every year. a small addition of chemical fertilizer won't hurt the structure of the soil . i've always used 5-10-5 as a booster. when the plants flower and when the fruit starts to form. i usually add compost or composted manure and some dehyrated manure before planting. also some quick acting lime. sometimes later in the year i give them a spray of liquid kelp. sound ok?

Marcsntonio, I believe this is what I was aiming for, looking at options down the road. I just purchased a soil test kit to be sure I don't overdue it and blast my veggies with too much unneeded stuff. I wouldn't want them growing up like aliens on steroids... none of the neighbors would eat my abundant crops then, would they. Thanks a bunch!

<I just purchased a soil test kit to be sure I don't overdue it>

You may want to read through some of the many posts here about how inaccurate and undependable those home soil test kits are. Make no changes based on the results they give you as doing so usually creates more problems than it helps. Professional soil tests available from your local county extension office for about the same price as one of those kits gets you results you can actually use.

Dave

Plants cannot use any fertilize unless it is soluble.

Your mixture looks to me to have a lot of organic matter.

That is good, but the plants cannot benefit from it untill the microbes and fungus break it down, into a soluble form.

I would use a liquid such as mirical grow not just for the plants. But more so to help the organisms in the soil to their job. Go slow and let your plants tell you what they need and make sure your beds have good drainage.

you can also add some molasses with fish emulsion which also works to feed the microbes in the soil. when i spray with liquid kelp i also add molasses to the mixture. but i agree with dan go by how the plants look. miracle grow is always good to keep on hand.