Trying to decide: Cork vs bamboo vs engineered hardwood
lana_roma
8 years ago
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lana_roma
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Laminate vs. Engineered Hardwood?
Comments (1)my cousin recently built a house. This is one area where it made sense to not pay the builder upcharge. They had the builder put in the cheapest carpet available, and then hired their own contractor to rip it out and put in hardwood flooring before they moved in. More choices, and cheaper. I think the builder even bought the carpet back from them....See MoreDark hardwood vs lighter hardwood floors
Comments (61)When it comes to hardwood, trends are something to ignore! Why? Because hardwood is pretty much a lifetime purchase, and unless yours is damaged in some way, you're probably not going to replace it. So, light wood vs. dark wood, wide planks vs. narrow planks -- that stuff's all going to come and go. With that in mind -- as well as the very real concerns about cleaning dark wood -- I'll vote for a nice, neutral midtone every time. Not too much contrast, not too red, and (unless it's a beach house) not too pale. I think this is the wood that's most likely to give you good service and stand the test of time....See MoreNoise with nailed-down hardwood vs engineered
Comments (1)It is a good question. I assume you referred to the engineered wood floors in floating installation. In fact, stapling down an engineered wood floor can be a good option for your case too with a good underlayment like Floor Muffler. Floor Muffler will definitely help to control the noise to the rooms below. We usually recommend the nailing or stapling down installation over the floating if you have a plywood subfloor. If you prefer solid hardwood floor, it could work the same way....See MoreHardwood floor vs. engineered hardwood?
Comments (27)Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors....See MoreUser
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