You'll want to re-word your posts then as the text is misleading. And learn the definition of troll. Nonetheless, the words in your posts are I am losing so much money every spring because I am terrible at planting trees. and I bought a Zelkova and I figured this tree would give a nice addition . Knowing how a tree is properly planted will allow you to plant a tree properly yourself, or alternatively not be taken by people who improperly plant trees and take your money thinking you don't know any better. It is immediately obvious this tree is too deep, too wet, and improperly planted all the way around. As there is no timeline given above, hopefully you can contact the nursery and tell them the tree is in the warranty period and the people they sent out to plant the tree were incompetent. Regardless of warranty period, you have two options: dig up the tree and try to save it. Or you could get another tree from this nursery and plant it yourself, as there is a risk that this nursery will do another incompetent job. Dan

The only thing I can suggest is to lift the plant and inspect the root ball- it is possible that it was pot bound and you didn't separate the roots enough to be able to wet the rootball thoroughly when you water. Water will not penetrate "ball o' roots" and no matter how much you water the plant will dry out. It's also possible that this one was planted too deeply or settled more deeply than the others. It is possible that masonry containers have leached into the soil and made your pH too high. Why just the one? I dunno. A pH test would rule it out. It is possible that someone dumped a vendi latte on it- who knows. A photo would be helpful. All you can do is ensure that it is planted properly and take care of it. FWIW I would never ever feed a plant that was not actively growing. If it was me I'd snag another PJM as backup... What sort of tree is it planted with?

Your soil appears to be quite alkaline and this makes the leaves turn light green to yellow, except for the leaf veins which remain dark green. I suggest you amend the soil with products which will acidify it. Some examples are garden Sulphur, green sand, aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate or liquid iron chelated compounds. The first ones are slow acting and the liquids help correct iron chlorosis faster (although it still will take a while to correct the look of the leaves). Most nurseries will hopefully carry one or several of these. Other products that will acidify very little but which are still good choices are coffee grounds and even vinegar diluted in water (but vinegar breaks down easily and needs tto be reapplied very often so, being lazy, I would go with the other products. Another suggestion is to apply 3-4" of mulch up to the drip line of the plant so the soil remains as evenly moist as possible. The mulch will also maintain the soil moist for longer periods so you do not have to water often. Acidic mulch like pine needles and such will help acidify the topmost part of the soil only so feel free to use other muulches like straw or hardwood mulch. The soil in the picture looks dry so try to maintain the soil moist as evenly as possible. Try not to have periods of dry soil, followed by periods of wet/moist soil, followed again by periods of dry soil & so forth. Give the plant about 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon of water early in the mornings. Water the soil and not the leaves. To help determine when to water, try using the finger method.... Early in the mornings and for 2-3 weeks daily, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of about 4". If the soil feels dry or almost dry then water. Otherwise, do not water. Every time that you water, write a note in a wall calendar indicating that you watered on that day. After 2-3 weeks, look at the notes and determine how often you are watering. If you watered -for example- every 3 days, set your sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water every 3 days. If the temperatures change 10 degress in either direction or if you enter a period when you receive a lot of rain (or no rain), retest for another 2-3 weeks. Since your growing season is so long, consider trying some of the reblooming hydrangeas too! Nikko will bloom once per year and it is kind of nice to get brand new blooms now and then. I visited the tropics during Xmas and was usually greeted by brown blooms in the Hortensias. Luis

Fordido, yes I prune the lower branches and as the season goes on I am pruning a lot of the lateral branches (non fruit producing) in the center of the plant for better air circulation. I think with a toddler you are much better off with just six per bed. When I babysit my grandsons there is no way I could keep up with the pruning, spraying and the close attention needed for more dense planting and those two boys! Jennie