How to Amend This Soil for Blueberries
Here is a Logan Labs soil report for my blueberry bed in north central MA. I have 6 plants, all about 5-6 years old in 150sf bed. I'm not very knowledgeable about these things, but what's throwing me in particular is the calcium. Someone said gypsum wouldn't help when calcium saturation is that low and that perhaps I should try dolomitic lime. If so, how much? I was going to use some sul-po-mag (in part because I have it on hand) but if I use dolomitic lime, perhaps that's not a good idea because of the mag. I know the lime might increase the ph but it seems I should do something to correct the calcium deficiency. I also wonder what you think is best for trace minerals: kelp meal? azomite? I try to be organic but make an exception to fertilize the bb with ammonium sulfate. I just read a long thread about watering potted bb with a dilute solution, and since I'm asking all these questions, I'll add one here about AS for bb plants in the ground. Is it better to irrigate with it more frequently or apply to ground a couple times a year? Thanks so much. As you might be able to tell, I'm very confused about what to do!
Comments (11)
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agovickima
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Amending soil for blueberries???
Comments (4)I have to add one cup of granulated soil sulfur to the bottom of the hole, mixed well with dirt, when planting blueberries here in Madison, Wisconsin. However, we have calciferous soil, due to the limestone formation that lies underground. We also have hard water due to the same limestone formation. Our soil is relatively high in clay, and it gets amended with considerable peat moss or composted leaves when blueberries are planted. You have different soil conditions, and I don't know if your tap water contains dissolved limestone. You might benefit from adding some peat moss or composted leaves. You might not need to add as much sulfur as I do. I have had good success planting blueberry shrubs in April and May. The hole is dug to twice the required depth, and the soil sulfur is put in the bottom. Add back one half of the dirt, and mix well with the sulfur. The blueberry shrub is now planted on top, so the roots are not in direct contact with the sulfur. Blueberries must be watered in well when they are planted. If your water is hard from dissolved limestone, you will have to lower the pH before using this water on your blueberry shrubs....See MoreHow to amend soil based on soil test results
Comments (1)I know next to nutthin 'bout reading soil tests but a couple of advisories. Depending on who did the testing, some labs give recommendations for lime for agricultural purposes where they expect the lime to be mixed into the soil rather than spread on top. Keep in mind that grass does best in soil that is at a PH of 6.5ish or so.and that it is much easier to increase PH than it is to reduce it. So if you add to much lime... Second thing to keep in mind is that you do not want to add more than one pound of N per month at a time to an existing lawn. Also too much N in a seed bed is not beneficial to seedlings and can kill germenating seeds Thirdly, N and P leach pretty quickly, so adding more than the plant can use before they leach out is both a waste of money and bad for the enviorment. Maybe there are some soil test readers here, If not, I'd suggest you re-do the test with Logan Labs and pay for them to make recommendations. Just my two cents....See MoreAmending soil for blueberries???
Comments (7)I think you are more concerned than you need to be. Blueberries thrive in western Washington, both in home gardens and in large, commercial fields. They are even used as ornamental plantings by the neighboring city in their large mixed sidewalk planting beds and I can guarantee these do not get any special attention other than weeding and annual pruning! Blueberries are quite tolerant of a range of acidity and they produce just as well in our moderately to slightly acidic soils as they do in those that are more highly acidic. If you can grow rhododendrons - and what western Washington resident can't - then you can grow blueberries. They do like a soil that is pretty organic and fertile, so I'd amend the entire planting area with compost before planting and mulch with more compost after planting. It won't hurt to add peat or sulfur either, if you wish. If you add sulfur, 1-2 lbs per 100 sf is sufficient. It's rather interesting that the OSU article cautions against the high water table.......there is a commercial blueberry farm not far from me that is planted on the edge of a slough. The water table is quite high - to the point where the ground is squishy in winter, even boggy. This field has been in active production for more than 50 years! (it is on the local historic register). I worked there when I was in high school some 30+ years ago and it was an established, thriving concern long before that. As an aside regarding the attached link discussing this farm, the 1994 lease issue was resolved with the local parks department by getting the site named to the historic register. I added it for specific note about the location of the farm and the soil conditions it enjoys - moist, mucky but very organic soil. btw, this is a certified organic farm. Here is a link that might be useful: Overlake Blueberry Farm...See MoreSoil amendments options for blueberries after soil test?
Comments (2)Don't know about more Miracid, but I just did the calcs for langbeinite for you ... Langbeinite can satisfy two things you need - potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg). Langbeinite is 18.8% K and 11.7% Mg. Your soil tests recommends 140 lbs/ acre Mg and 110 lbs/acre of potash (83%K) which translates to 91 lb/acre of K. For the K: 91 lb K/acre @ 0.188 lbs K/lb langbeinite leads to 485 lbs langbeinite/acre, or for your area ~14 lbs langbeinite For the Mg: 140 lbs Mg/acre @ 0.117 lbs Mg/lb langbeinite leads to 1196 lbs langbeinite/acre, or ~ 34 lbs for your area. If you use langbeinite at the amount needed for Mg, you will be adding about 2.5X as much K as called for. If you wanted to go this route, you might check with the soil lab if that amount added would put you into an excessive situation. In my experience those folks are typically very helpful and welcome calls for guidance based upon a test result. I have a quibble with the amount of Epsom salts they advise based upon their Mg recommendation. If you use the 140 lb/acre Mg needed, that would require 1420 lbs of Epsom salts, not 1270. If you use the 1270 lb rate for Epsom salts (9.86% Mg), you would be adding 125 lbs of Mg, not 140. In the above I used the 140 lb/are rate. In the end, I doubt it makes a lot of difference, but their conversion isn't consistent with the need they state. This post was edited by TXEB on Thu, May 23, 13 at 10:40...See Morepip313
8 years agovickima
8 years agoemerogork
8 years agopip313
8 years agoemerogork
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI use 20-30 gallon containers, the OP says his are in raised beds. I'm not seeking advice, I know how to care for them. I add sulfuric acid to the water, and water by hand. I stick the finger of fate into the mix to test moistness.
One of my plants is rated to zone 7 so -10F would be a little much for it. I overwinter them in the garage.Oh I use raised beds too, it got to -16F and the plants are fine. More than fine! But I'm in zone 6. I don't have a choice as the ground is way too alkaline. I tried keeping the ground acidic, and found it near impossible. Like trying to make Lake Michigan salty by adding salt.
emerogork
8 years agoI forget where I found this picture but here is an example in growing blueberries in a bail of peat moss.
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years ago
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a