how to find a reputable inspector that isn't in cahoots with realtor
3katz4me
9 years ago
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Kris_MA
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Why Isn't Terrible Market Reflected in Media Reports?
Comments (22)Shenandoah, I sell RE on and around Lake Norman and Charlotte. What is your MLS #? I would like to take a look at the listing. Also, if you are located on Lake Norman, did your agent explain to you that there are 7 years worth of inventory of just waterfront homes? Right from the start, you have a 50 / 50 chance of being a winner or a loser as far as geting the home sold. Like Chiuse said... you CAN NOT chase the market downwards. You have to price it a bit below market value to get serious interest. What Buyer in their right mind is going to pay market value for a home, knowing that in two months it is going to be worth less. They want a cushion. They will get it. From you, or from the guy down the street. Do not sell the boat slip to your neighbor! If you do, you just decreased the Buyer pool even further. Buyers are making their decision on one thing and one thing only right now, and that is perceived value. In other words, price. It is not true that you can not sell your home. you just need to price it right. A lot of agents do not know how to do this in a market like this. Your appraisal of 12 months ago means nothing to no one. Throw it away. Find what compareable homes are selling for, and then price it at least 15% under those. You need to sell. Interest rates are going up. Each time they do, your Buyer pool gets smaller. Do not get caught up with lowering your price little by little, and never being in front of the curve. You spent your savings and borrowed money for the stager. You need to sell tomorrow! Do not let yourself become one of those that gets foreclosed on or forced into a short sale. Speak with your agent today and come up with a good plan. Good luck....See MoreThank Goodness for Home Inspectors!
Comments (14)Janie, hope you see this post. Good for all buyers/sellers to read, really! Home inspector went out Thursday. I also hired a chimney inspector and a termite and moisture inspector - all there at the same time at one point. I'm going to paste a list of my request of repairs that were sent to the owners LA which are just some of the problems/suggestions that were from the report. At least 9 broken/split shingle tabs, one hole and several popped nails was observed on the roof, have shingles reviewed/repaired by a qualified roofer to prevent leakage. Note: Shingles was observed in the crawl space. Some of the shingle tabs are broke along the rake of roof in a couple areas, have repaired to prevent water from seeping into roof sheathing. A few of the nails have backed out of the ridge vents, have secured by roofer Squirrel damage to plumbing vent boot - nail hole where they've eaten away the rubber Replace and repair. Chimney needs to be cleaned and crown needs to be sealed due to cracks. (see above)* The deck framing has pulled away from each other on outside corner, there is a joint along of the front framing that is not supported. One support in the middle of the deck that is leaning badly and two of the corner posts are landscape timbers and should not be used as a structural member having framing/post review/repaired by qualified contractor. Could collapse. Back of House/Deck - part of ledger board was and isn't supported properly. Needs to be fixed, could collapse. Needs to be bolted, not nailed. The rear deck is not bolted to the home, have lag bolts installed by a qualified contractor. The condensate drain is not connected to the air handler and has come apart at one of its couplings, have reviewed/ repaired by contractor to prevent condensation from draining into crawlspace. A couple of the foundation vents are at the soil grade level, during heavy rains this will allow water to pour in through vents, have vent wells installed where the vent is at grade level. Some crawlspace vents are broken and need to be repaired or replaced. The downspout extension to the right of the front porch is draining near the foundation vent, have moved away from foundation. Crawlspace -The dryer vent is plastic where it passes through the floor and is not connected to the metal duct in the crawlspace, (just hanging there, with lint coming out). Have plastic vent replaced with metal and re-connected in the crawl by a qualified contractor. Lint needs to be cleaned out, potential fire hazard. Water Heater -The temperature/pressure relief valve is not piped to the exterior of crawlspace, if this valve should open or leak you would not know it. The floor joist under the bathroom near the crawlspace door has been severely cut for the waste drain, this will allow it to sag over time, have repaired by contractor. FOUNDATION CRACKS - There is a large crack on the right side of the foundation, the stepped crack is at least 1/4 inch wide and the brick is displaced at least 1/4 of an inch, recommend review by a structural engineer to determine cause and if any repairs are suggested besides repairing and sealing. On the right side of the home, the wood beam is not in contact with the column/pier, this may cause or have caused some settlement in this area since it is next to he large crack in the foundation, have repaired by contractor. Above garage in attic needs to be supported by 2x4 where beams come together, one of the gable end supports is not supporting the ridge rafter (needs shimmed), have repaired by contractor. One open chase in attic was observed on the far left side of home (over master bath), if a fire was to start in the home it could quickly spread into attic, have covered/insulated by contractor. The bathroom exhaust vents are not routed to the exterior, this allows excessive moisture into crawlspace, recommend routing to the exterior. Garage-put storage door back on (I can do this if you have the pins available I think) The door leading into the garage did not latch when closed, have adjusted/repaired. The garage door did not reverse when met with resistance (usually just an adjustment), have repaired for safety. A large knock-out has been removed for a small wire in the top of electrical panel, if a fire was to start in the panel it could spread quickly into the wall. Have clamp and reducing rings installed by electrician. The heat pump is connected to a 40 amp breaker, the data plate states a maximum breaker of 30 amps to protect the unit, have replaced by electrician. There is a electrical wire in the crawlspace(near the dryer vent/under kitchen/hall) that is not properly capped or installed in a junction box, have repaired by electrician. The switch did not operate the ceiling fan in the front right bedroom, the light and fan works but did not shut off with the switch, have reviewed by electrician. The ceiling fan in the front right bedroom wobbled badly when tested, have reviewed by electrician. ****************** The chimney inspector said he was unable to tell if any of the flue tiles were cracked because the fireplace was dirty. My response to the sellers were the following: As for the chimney, as I mentioned in a prior email, the inspector was not able to view the flue tiles due to the fireplace being dirty and having cobwebs and spiders. If there is any flue tiles cracked, to fix this would be "thousands" from what he said, and if there are cracked tiles, a possible fire hazard when using the fireplace. If the fireplace was clean, he could have reported if there were any issues at the time of inspection. I cannot go forward without knowing if there are any flue tiles cracked before closing. He said that he would be willing to re-inspect the chimney for free and put a camera down there at no extra cost once the chimney has been cleaned to make sure there are no cracked flue tiles. His estimate to clean the chimney is $130 and to seal the crown $150 ********************* This above wasn't all that was reported in the inspection that needed attention. Below is the list I sent that I would eventually take on and be responsible for doing: Brick in front porch has settled, driveway and sidewalk all have cracks from settling, repair and seal to prevent more damage Front porch soffits need to be adjusted & soffit missing in rear corner, left side. There are three (3) areas of siding that are loose and need to be fixed. Gutter -some gutter guards are missing and need to be replaced. Gutter needs to be cleaned out in areas. Crawlspace, insulation is falling and some pieces are on the ground which needs to be replaced and repaired, held up by metal wires Return duct needs cleaning Garage- door opens and closes fine, has a gap on one side, needs a new weather strip Garage- Very minor rot observed at the bottom of one of the garage door panels, have sealed. The sprayer did not function properly for the kitchen faucet when tested, have reviewed/repaired by plumber. Tree limbs that overhang the roof should be cut to limit squirrels access to roof. Squirrel damage evident Minor suspected carpenter bee damage was observed to a couple of the exterior wood window sills, have repaired and or treated if problem continues. Between the front porch and the garage, the soil grade is in contact with the vinyl siding, there should be at least a 6inch clearance between the siding and ground to prevent water seepage into band joist during heavy rains and for periodic pest inspection, have repaired. Note: Staining to the band joists was observed in this area from the crawlspace Settlement cracking was observed in the front bedroom door frame/sheetrock, no obvious reason for settlement was observed under this area, have reviewed if desired. The 2 smoke detectors did not operate when tested, have smoke detectors installed in the hallway and bedroom areas for life safety. Some minor damage was observed to the window trim at the bottom of the rear exterior door, have repaired.. The air handler in the crawlspace is very rusty at the bottom and may leak during the summer months, observation recommended. (will try to keep an eye out for this) The majority of the crawlspace did not have a vapor barrier installed on the crawlspace floor, recommend installing to reduce and maintain low moisture levels in the crawlspace. (will have installed) The heat pump is 24 years old, typical life expectancy is 15-20 years, although it is working properly it will likely need to be replaced in the next couple years. Roof is beyond typical life expectancy and will need replacing in a couple years *************** So there you have it. Again, I will say THANK GOODNESS FOR HOME INSPECTIONS. Not only do I know what's wrong with this house that the inspector(s) could visually see, but now, so do the owners. We are now in a wait and see phase. Waiting to hear to what they are going to agree to fix on the list I have sent. I have not asked these people for ANYTHING at all that is not on the inspection report and many of the problems that need correction have to be done due to safety. Here's a man that smokes and neither of the two smoke detectors work! Also, the lint and dryer vent problem can easily start a fire. THe major issues are the chimney and the foundation - others are all easy to fix. If the chimney is cleaned and it shows no issues in the flue, than it's just down to the foundation failure - and we wait and see. After going through all this, here's my 2 cents for sellers and getting an inspection PRIOR to putting your home up for sale... If you get a home inspection done prior to putting it on the market, you will not only know what issues are there, but what issues you know MUST be fixed before any bank would agree to give a potential home buyer a mtg on the home. You will save money in the long run! The reason I say this is... If the sellers of the property we are looking at did an inspection prior to listing the house for sale, they probably wouldn't have gone down as far as they did in price during negotiations. Obviously, they didn't know the REAL condition of the house - and if they had gotten the inspection, they would have known and priced accordingly, knowing what HAD to be done. Instead, they came down probably more than they now think they should have, now having to come up with more $$ to fix the problems if they want the deal to go through. If they aren't fixed, I walk. And from what I understand, they are in love with another house and really want to sell, but I'm sure they didn't see these problems coming. The inside of the house is great- as you can see from the repair list - many issues were in areas not easily accessible or in easy view. Have to say, I'm glad they didn't know beforehand in my case - they wouldn't have reduced the price as they did, I'm sure. It saves time - Knowing what the inspector found and fixing what you can prior to listing it for sale makes the buyers/banks inspectors findings that much less. Buyers will be more apt to purchase a home that has less issues I think - it just looks better on paper. You can have the cleanest and most well taken care of home on the interior, which seesm to be the case here, or at last it seems so, but knowing that there's dryer lint hanging in gobbs from the detached duct shows me, whether it be her or prior owners, someone did NOT clean out the lint filter in their dryer! Doing it before hand also saves you time because the less there is to fix, the faster you can close!!!!! Don't be penny wise, pound foolish as the saying goes. This is something I say for all buyers and sellers. As you can see if you read the posts I wrote above, this wasn't my first home to have a contract on recently - this is the second one. And honestly, from the looks of the home, I would NEVER have thought there would have been this many issues with the home. We saw a few of them, I wrote them down, but NEVER thought it would be like this! I had all of the same inspectors come out again as last time, though I paid the full inspection amount this time vs last time when I didn't have the inspector send me a written report and his summary, it just wasn't needed as I saw all I had to see on his computer at the inspection. You may not need a totally full inspectors report. Maybe there is so little that needs to be done on your home your inspector will allow you to view his findings on his computer while you write down the problems. My inspectors charged $280 but during the first inspection charged me half, I paid him the full $280 this last time - again, I hate wasting money, but it was well worth it! I hope I've provided some useful information! Hopefully this deal will go through, if not, I'm hoping that with the next house that maybe the inspectors will have a repeat customer discount, a buy 2 get 1 free offer, or something of the like - now, wouldn't that be nice! Hopefully, it won't come to that. Best of luck to all who are buying/selling a home!!!!...See MoreHow to get realtors to give me data?
Comments (20)josephene_gw- how long before you move? If it's more than 60 days, the agents may not be sending listings now, because many of them will be under contract before you are ready. Are you going to be buying sight unseen, or making a trip down there to look at homes/put in offer? I have out of state buyers quite often. I will initially talk to them on the phone to find out about what they want, their lifestyle, what is important to them, and their price range. I will usually encourage them to get preapproved, so they know what amount of pmt they qualify for/what dn pmt/loan type eligibility (VA? First time buyer?). I prefer a pmt over a loan amount, because if they aren't from here, they may not know that property taxes are really high (can easily be 500-1000 mo), and if they got qualified not knowing that, there could be issues with their debt to income ratio when it goes to underwriting. Then I will send them about 10 listings that meet their criteria, so they can get a feel for what is available, and I try to get their feedback so I can get a better idea of what they like. I won't send more listings until about a week or so before they are coming here (assuming they aren't buying sight unseen), so I am only sending available homes. I have them go through the list, and send me back a list of what they want to see. So if you are having a hard time getting responses... 1) Call them. Don't email. You'll have an easier time if you can develop rapport with the agent, and see how well they listen, answer questions, etc. 2) get preapproved- Agents don't want to spend hrs sending people listings that haven't even determined what amount they qualify for. (MAKE SURE YOU GET A PAYMENT AMOUNT that you are approved for, not just a loan amount. Taxes can vary in different parts of the country and screw up your debt to income) 3) ask for them to send you some listings to get an idea of what is available. 4) Try to get listings about a week before visiting to view homes, then go thru list and send list back of what you want to see....See MoreDIY'er and trades people / county inspectors
Comments (17)Hi- I'm the guy amberm145 referred to. I've done all of the work on my house except concrete work and drywall. And it has taken me years, working full time at it. Still, I wouldn't trade the experience for anything! I spent about 5 years on research- design, codes, etc. I'm a very quick study, and have been building things my whole life, so I'm well suited to the task. Thanks to my incredibly patient wife, I have been able to do this while she brings home the bacon. I'm just about done, in about 3 years. I can account for about 9 months of lost time, what with travel, delays, and preparing our old house to sell it and move. I could have sped up the process considerably had I used a helper. For example, it took me all week to drag the sheathing up on the roof, one sheet at a time. A young, strong helper could have gotten all the sheets up there while I nailed them off. We probably could have knocked it out in a day. Building a house takes teamwork; hard to come by working alone. Before you even consider this, you need to find out what the rules and codes are for your area. Many areas don't allow you to do your own electric, for example. A trip to your local building authority should answer those kind of questions. Next, you need to consider time and money. My build cost about what a cheaply built, code minimum house would have cost, but I have a strong, efficient house with custom finishes throughout. It would have easily cost twice as much to have a contractor build it turn-key. We didn't finance any of it. I doubt you could get a bank to fund a DIY build, as there is a high failure rate as people get in over their heads. In our case, we were incredibly fortunate to find a contractor who lives right around the corner, and specializes in ICF, which is the method we chose. Although I offered to pay him for his advice, he didn't charge me for any of the guidance he offered. By having a contractor, that gave me access to his subs. Since he referred them, I got good service. Subs don't really want to work with a one-off DIY or owner-builder. When I did use a sub, I stayed completely out of their way, letting them do their thing. I would never ask a sub to share the job with them. It's their reputation and license on the line of I screw up the job. I tried to hire a plumber as a consultant, and got nowhere. They either wanted to do the whole job or nothing. I was able to work with an HVAC contractor, with me doing most of the work, and them doing the actual connection and commissioning. Since they didn't provide the equipment, they are not liable at all for warranty claims. I pay subs in cash the minute they finish (to my satisfaction). I started out that way with my contractor, so that when he referred a sub, they knew I was good for the money. One more thing- building a house is hard, physical work. I've lost about 40 lbs. during the process. You can be sure that during your build, you will experience the hottest, coldest, snowiest, windiest weather your area has ever seen. No fooling- we hit an all-time record high of 107 degrees while I was building the shell. The following year was one of the rainiest on record here. I'm in my 60's, and pretty strong and capable. If I could change one thing, it would have been to do this when I was 20 years (or more) younger. Building a house is also dangerous. My one story house on a walk-out basement is 27' high at the peak of the gables. People have DIED falling off of roofs and ladders. Workmen's Comp insurance is one of the reasons that building trades cost so much. I didn't write all of this to discourage you; just to let you know what you are in for. If you're able, and willing to put in the research, time, and effort, it is a rewarding journey. Just make sure that you are honest with yourself about the time, money, and work involved....See More3katz4me
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