"Re: tub deck..you secure the surround to the wall studs as well as to the platform? Yes. Any photos instructions on building the platform and the support decking? I see your platform, but it is covered by the plywood. No pictures of that. Frame it like a mini-floor. 2-by framing members spaced 16" on center. I usually run the platform "joists" perpendicular to the direction that the floor joists are running. Do mark out a the area where your tub's drain and trap will run, box that out accordingly so the platforms' joists don't interfere with the plumbing. Then cover the platform with 3/4" CDX plywood. Also, on a side note..any instructions installing a kerdi shower but with a preformed shower pan? That might have been discussed in the "Kerdi Shower" thread. If it wasn't covered specifically, the detail for joining the wall Kerdi to the preformed shower pan flange is essentially the same as joining the Kerdi to a tub flange. I drew a couple of sketches regarding that detail in the KS thread. Should be towards the end. There should be one drawing showing the cement board being held above the flange and the tile hanging over to cover the flange. There should be a second drawing showing furring strips added to the faces of the wall stud, with the cement board then hanging down past the tub flange and the tile no the cement board. The latter would be a better when using small mosaic tiles. Also, I read on another post someone got a tub, but doesn't have a big enough water heater to fill it...does that happen often? That could happen. There is usually a minimum quantity of water that needs to be in a tub for a jetted tub to operate. That volume will put the water level above the jets, preventing the pump from cavitating. Some folks on the forum with smallish water heaters have mentioned that they fill the tub as much as they can, climb in and soak while the water heater is recharging, then fill it more while bathing. Remember, your body will displace water as well, raising the water level. So the answer? Yes, it could be a factor. How much of a factor depends on your water heater's volume and recycle time. That's not a question I'd be able to answer. Mongo

I went out and talked with the tile guy again this morning. We are going to do the 4 wide strip of accent centered above the tub and on the tub deck. We are either going to totally remove the apron piece of trim under the window or trim it down a couple of inches to allow for even spacing of the field tile and accent. (Which is what I wanted originally) I really like the idea of using the accent for the whole apron front on the tub but I think it will be just way too busy and that would be the first thing you would notice. I would rather have it flow more with the shower. Thanks for your help:)

NO, it can't. Not unless it's made with the thought in mind of tiling it. Cast enamel can't be tiled because the metal core will tend to expand and contract way too much with the changes in temperature, and plastics or fiberglass will flex too much, unless, as I said, it's MADE to be tiled over, such as the 1"+ thick fiberglass tub in the pics below. Thickness of the fiberglass is clearly visible on the edge of the tub to the right side:

Does the joint where the glass wall tile meets the deck need a special glass molding? I would prefer none just glass tile to solid surface. You can run the wall tile right to the tub deck, and caulk the intersection with color and texture matched caulk. Borders/liners are added for aesthetic and transitional interest. Sometimes it's purely design, sometimes for function, sometimes a combination. If your glass tile can stand on its own, and you'd prefer it to do so, then let it. I've not ever seen a glass grab bar or hand rail. Clear polycarbonate (I think it was PC) yes, but glass, no. Mongo