My Land Surveyor is Blowing Me off.. What should I do
9 years ago
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- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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I am unhappy and my marrige is awful...what should i do?
Comments (12)You made it about your "friend" not us. Why was "he" even part of the post if he's not relevant? And, hardly anyone believes in cheating, but still many do it. Cheating starts in the heart....look up what "Covet" means. Why is he even spending time with a married woman? If your husband was doing the same "non cheating" with a woman what would you think? I mean, physical sex aside, it sounds like you are considering maybe someday marrying this "perfect" guy...that must fall into some sort of cheating. Right? I don't care if you even believe in God, but you brought up the Christian part, again, not us. And, your story seems to get worse depending on how defensive you get. At first, your husband never laid a hand on you or his real kids, now it appears you are "abused and beat". Which is it? And by the way, none of God's Christian laws that I know of say anything about "THOU must be Happy"....you may "THINK" and "HOPE" God wants you to be happy because you want it, but it has never been one of his laws. Happiness is often found in the next life, not this one. Of course, no one wants you or your kids to be abused unmercibly, but you should be working on resolving your problems one way or another WITHOUT another man in your life. I know you want to hear..."Your husband is so awful, so go be with the man of your dreams and live a wonderful happily ever after life that you deserve"....but that's probably not going to happen no matter how much you want it. I have friends that have done and thought the exact same way you did, and you may think I am trying to be mean and hurtful, but I really am trying to help you. Things just won't turn out all rosy like you think, no matter how much you hope or think you deserve it. Believe it or not, I really am trying to help you and your kids. I could recommend some books about living with people with chronic pain, even abuse, etc... but it doesn't sound like you're interested in anything but approval to do what you want to do. Sorry, you don't like my advice. But sometimes the hardest things to hear are those that are true....See MoreShould I reno a house on a lot of land
Comments (19)Chisue, it would not shock me if that happened here, although my house dates back to the 30s and is all brick. It is only one lot, not two, a builder could not subdivide. Plus, for a builder this would not make sense, not enough profit. However for a young couple who want to do their own thing and want a big house with land left over, this house would be perfect. Sweeby The reason I cannot ask a local broker is because it is a very small town where everyone knows everything. I need to do some additional minor construction work that does not inpact on the kitchen redo. I cannot call a broker in until I do it because if I end up not hiring that broker, they will make snide comments about my house. It happened to me more than once while I was looking. Since there are often local exclusives people use more than one broker. When the broker wanted me to see a house I had seen with somene else, she then says, oh did they manage to fix that leaky toilet, roof, sink, you fill in the blanks. So I cannot risk a disgruntled realtor saying, oh yes they had that horrible ___________, do you know if they fixed it when someone mentions my house. I have verbally spoken to people but they all want to come and see The 600-650 houses are comparable, the lower priced houses do not have the same feel. Plus houses here are unique since they range in age from 1900-1960 so comparables are very difficult. People want different things I agree they may not like my redo. When I was looking in 1991 I saw lots of stuff that was Mauve and formica and new. It made me want to run. I used to find that worse than older and in need of updating. However, if I were to redo, in this area people just like new and neutral which I would do as my taste is very neutral to begin with. Even in that context I see what you are saying someone may just hate maple as I do light colored oak (ironically my cabinets are dark oak and that is fine with me) Something to think about...See MoreWhat's killing my new lawn, and what should I do about it?
Comments (1)1) Can you confirm this is a lawn fungus? Pattern has been, grass gets a dry area and then develops the yellow color of doom. Mostly this happened in a handful of places the irrigation doesn't cover too well. I'm not an expert at disease in northern lawns, but if I had those spots in my St Augustine I would declare it a disease. 1) What is the best path forward from here? Just hope and wait the fungicide works? Am I watering too much/too little? Can I over fungicide? Can I go get immunox and double down or will that kill the grass? You can absolutely overuse fungicide. As far as I'm concerned you already have. To my belief using a fungicide is like poisoning your soil, so I stay away from it. Why? Because most of the beneficial microbes in your soil are fungi. Best path depends on the watering issue. Are you watering too much or too little? You'd have to tell us how much you're watering to help us with an answer to that. How often do you water and for how long? If you are still watering multiple times per day, as if this were just installed, then you're watering too much. That would be my suspicion. Transitioning from new install watering to mature turf watering can be tricky. At this point if you are watering more than once every 10 days to 2 weeks then I'd be suspicious of too much water. Put some cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turn on the sprinklers. Time how long it takes to fill them. That's how long you should be watering. 2) Is the yellow grass a goner? At this point in time I'm planning on having to resod a handful of places come September, but if it'll come back on it's own I'd be very happy. Agree. Adjust your watering for now and resod selected spots at your leisure. Boston area is a forgiving climate for new grass, unless you got bad advice on watering the new grass....See MoreHow often should I water my Peace Lily & what else can I do for it?
Comments (10)That PLs are usually found in riparian settings (streamside or in boggy environments) where they naturally occur is absolutely no cause to believe they will do well in boggy soils. They adapt well to various types of water culture, and perform very well in fast-draining, well-aerated soils, but should be expected to perform poorly when asked to make the transition in soils from lengthy periods of significant saturation to times when the soil has dried down and become reasonably well-aerated and more hospitable to the plant. The reason, as has been pointed out, is the fact that the plant will grow roots structured to allow the plant to deal with one or the other set of conditions, but not both in a cycle that starts with a long period of saturation transitioning to the more appropriate moist (rather than wet or soggy) medium. How well a soil drains is determined almost exclusively by the size of the particles it is comprised of. While the arrangement you have with the pot sitting above the effluent in the collection saucer is commendable, it has no impact on how well the soil drains or its level of aeration. 1. How often should I water? Intervals will vary with season, light load, amount of air movement, ....... Unless you use a soil that allows watering on a schedule as opposed to on an 'as needed' basis, and yours doesn't, you should absolutely stick to watering only when the plant gets dry to the point it needs water. In fact, in spite of the stress it would create, it would actually be better if you waited for this plant to exhibit signs of the first stage of wilt before you water than to water before the plant need it. I'm not advocating using drought stress indicators to signal the plants need for water - just trying to establish a feel for the idea that a little under-watering is less limiting than over-watering. For this plant, marking your watering date on the calendar and OCCASIONALLY waiting for the first signs of wilt to establish appropriate intervals between waterings is a reasonable strategy. If you'd rather, buy a wooden birch dowel rod (1/4 or 5/16") from a hardware or big box store. Cut into appropriate length pieces for your plants, sharpen the ends with a pencil sharpener, and use the pieces stuck deep into the pot as 'tells' that will let you know the moisture conditions deep in the pot. If they come out wet or stained dark from wet soil, withhold water until they come out clean. MUCH better than "watering gauges/meters". 2. What else can I do for this plant? The answer to that could easily fill a book. You could try reading this (click on link). I read someplace that liquid fertilizer once a month is good too. Yay or nay on that? To be meaningful, any advice regarding frequency of fertilizer applications has to take into consideration your soil choice and watering habits. For example, if you water in small sips to avoid your MG soil remaining soggy too long, a one month interval at the regular rate is an automatic problem for more than one reason, and the type of fertilizer as well as its NPK %s both play a part in determining the criticality of the issue. If you're using a soil that allows you to water at will w/o the need to fear consequences centering on the fact the soil will be saturated for a length of time measured in weeks, you can actually fertilize at low doses every time you water, which is how I choose to fertilize all my plants during the winter. One type of soil (those that are very water-retentive, like yours) make it almost impossible to maintain control over effective nutritional supplementation; other types of soil that support little or no saturation make establishing and maintaining a sound supplementation program monkey easy. Al...See MoreRelated Professionals
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