Drawers all the way! Get as wide as you can, so you won't have as many stacks. I have 6 drawer stacks but no more than 3 in a row. It is easy finding things as they are put away in zones. There are the pots/pans drawers, the bowls/fry pans drawer, the daily dishes drawer, the cups/glasses drawer, round tupperware drawer, square/rectangle tupperware drawer, baking drawers (2), junk drawer, keys & family notebook drawer & misc dh stuff, stamps, pens/pencils/crayon and checkbook drawer, my drawer for work stuff and pocketbook, foils and oven mitt drawer, silverware one, several utensil ones (serving stuff one, cooking stuff one, measuring stuff, cutting boards one, food processor stuff one, etc....), one for lunch bags and water bottles, cookie sheets and one that has sone light bulbs and medicine which will move out once we get the shelves in our master medicine cab. Not sure what will go in there.... Once you set it up logically, it is easy to remember. Post it notes for the first few days help. I had rollouts in the last kitchen before we moved here and thought they were great. We moved here into a kitchen with no drawer stacks and only had shallow top drawers. Our new kitchen is so much better than even the pullout setup. As you know better, you do better. Thanks to GW, I went with all drawers other than the sink base. If we did not have water filters in the sink cab, we'd have done drawers there too.

This very old discussion came up in a search as I was hunting for non-adhesive cork shelf liners. I don't want to stick anything to my brand-new cabinetry after a remodel and also want to protect it. I've been through clear vinyl with ridges (yes, collects gunk as noted in another comment), a slightly cushiony Con-Tac product (pretty okay but I don't want the white contrast I used to have), and cork, which became my favorite for its natural tone and soft landing for items placed on it. I tried stick-down cork but it damaged the surface underneath when I placed it slightly askew and needed to straighten so I'm going for non-adhesive. I tried getting the adhesive cork and just not peeling off the backing but then it's slippery on the back. I've landed on rolls of cork from https://www.widgetco.com/ for a couple of reasons: They come in multiple widths and thicknesses beyond what I can get at the big-box stores and other online sources, and the price per foot works out to the same or less than adhesive cork rolls I found on Amazon for what appears to be better quality. Some of the reviews of thinner cork rolls on Amazon said it was brittle, came damaged, wasn't good quality. I'm getting 1/8" thickness (1/16" and 1/4" also available). I'll unroll carefully and lightly dampen (advice I got from a review) and weight it to flatten before installing. Cost is better than the Williams Sonoma and Ikea, both of which have limited sizes available as I write this.

I have to ask what to me is the obvious, elephant in the living room question: If you're going to pay for someone to put in roll-outs, why not go all the way and just put in drawers? All the value of drawers has been discussed a gudzillion times, so I won't beat a dead horse. I've retrofitted several cabinets with drawers and it is just plain easy. Removing the center stile is eeeeeeasy. You probably need a square tipped drill bit, given the age of your hinges. Tapping it out then is a no brainer. A little sanding on the top area and in go the drawers. and Hollysprings has a point. Those are partial/standard overlay and you will have a nice big gap between the doors. If you have to buy new doors, why not buy new drawer fronts? If you don't want to buy new doors, you're going to end up with skinny, useless roll-outs that probably won't hold your nice big pots.

You can buy drawer slides and you can buy drawers made to measure. I did a google search for Blum and Accuride and both make slides that are available from various sources online. Blum has the reputation for being top of the line, but I don't know if other companies have products that are now as good, and their reputations just haven't caught up. I do know that Blum is pricey, but they are very simple to install. You can also try to hire someone to do it for you, but that will cost you. If you're handy and not afraid to try, you can order custom sized drawers (before you order them, tell them the cabinet opening size and know which slides you'll use. The slide manufacturer will specify how much clearance to leave for the slides. It might be something like 1/2" on each side.) Then determine the heights you want them to be and mark them on one side of the pantry. Cut a piece of plywood to those heights. (you can cut the tallest one first, then keep cutting it down as you do the shorter ones.) For example, if you want to put the top pullout at 48" high, cut the plywood to 48". Lean the half of the slide that gets mounted to the cabinet on the plywood, so it'll be at the correct height. Screw one or two screws in. Then move the plywood to the other wall of the cabinet and do the same. This ensures that they'll be exactly the same height. Try the pullout. If it works well, you can put another screw into each slide. Then cut the plywood to the height of the next shelf down and repeat. They come with directions. Your saw will have to be accurate so the plywood is cut into a true rectangle. Otherwise, the slides won't be level. Then you can install the other half of the slide on the pullout's bottom. If you're not up to this, you might have a handy friend who can do it. It's not a difficult or time consuming job. I don't know off hand where you can buy pullout drawers, but a google search ought to work. Good luck.