I don't usually see the need to swap out a fridge for a CD model. If it sticks out and cuts into a walk way I'd do it if I could financially. I would allow extra inches around it (even if a filler is needed) in case a future fridge is wider. the corners - I agree with rhome on being consistent with whichever type you use. I do think the diagonal corners cut into your space - makes it much more difficult to reach into those corners! The upper diagonals put the cab door smack in your face and give too deep of storage- where things are lost in the back. alternate upper corner cabinet - the pantry - I think it's fine and space like that can always be used. you can use the different doors/shelf areas to separate types of items - like canned goods in one, breakfast and other dry goods in another, 1 for baking supplies, 1 for snack items/juice/soda and /or water bottles. Unless you have a definite need for a counter space closer to the dining area I'd keep it as is. I don't think it's too big. doorways - foyer - I don't see the need for a wider doorway there (am I missing something?). will there be a closet in the foyer? DR/LR doorway - that might be a good idea to check out. make sure your table will fit thru the doorway w/seating also. or you might just set up another table in the LR lined up with the doorway. We did that at my sister's for holidays - there was a large archway between her eating area and her LR so we put another table in her LR running up to the archway so both tables were close together. It was a 'T' arrangement. base cabinets - drawers, drawers and more drawers!! why so few drawers? it looks like it'll be a big, beautiful kitchen with lots of cabinets and counter space! I'd put in more lower drawers tho.

Thanks for the insight Angie, Right now the fridge is next to the oven and I have never noticed the fridge door hitting the oven before. Of course I just now opened and closed it a bunch just to see. It does touch a bit. I have a french door where the right door has a flap that overlaps the left door which creates resistance if you were to open just the left side. I plan to do the recessed inset install on the oven which will give even more clearance. Now speaking of appliances bumping into appliances, I currently have a problem with not being able to open the dishwasher if the refrigerator is already open. A problem at every meal, but in the new setup the dishwasher will be over a few more inches so that won't happen. As far as food storage goes, will I miss not having a pantry even though I never had one? I have toyed with the idea of leaving the patio slider as is and building a tall 15" deep pantry on that short wall. One problem with that is that the patio door opens from the corner and is not reversible. Even if I dealt with that, I would still have to move the wine fridge and microwave. I like the idea of a self serve zone but am open to it being elsewhere of it makes more sense.

We have Cliq in our newly remodeled kitchen (finished in early October) and love the cabinets. Ours are Dayton Painted White. At our annual Xmas party in early December we had more than a few people ask if they were custom cabinets because they look so nice. I was very pleased by that! I never looked at Barker, so I can't describe the difference between the two, but I'm satisfied with Cliq. We ordered two samples and they were tossed all over the house for a few weeks while we packed up our kitchen and prepared for construction to start. And then once construction started the samples were thrown around by the construction crew as well while we continued to debate whether to get Painted White or Painted Linen. They held up well - not a chip to be found despite being thrown on the floor, walked on, and generally treated as scrap - and I promptly placed my order so the cabinets would arrive just in time for the contractor to begin installing.

This isn't to be rude...but more educational: It's funny how people not in the business don't realize the complexities of kitchen ordering....and the time required to write up a clean, perfect order. . Yes, some orders are easy and just require the basics. But today, most kitchens are more complex (or customized) and go floor to ceiling. Expectations are so much higher. Every little detail must be spelled out. Knowledge of how things fit and clearances all go hand in hand with a kitchen order. Also, the box construction and overlay will determine how you order the cabinets. My order of a frameless kitchen will be completely different from an inset kitchen. Many times people are shocked when I tell them in can take me anywhere from 1-3 days to get an order faxed in. Things you have to check: hinging, finished ends, corner clearances, appliances specs, hardware fit or interference, ceiling heights and crown molding design, unlevel floors and ceilings....I could go on and on. Some orders require me to hand-draw a custom cabinet for the factory. And once you get it faxed in....then you wait for the acknowledgement and you have to check it and double check it again! THEN it goes in to production. My clients think they'll get the cabinets 6 wks from when they hand me the deposit. It doesn't work that way. Figure in another week for ordering write up, factory time in processing the order and time for me to double check everything again. Have said all of that, I'm sure there are some freelance KD's out there that could help you out. Maybe Barkers has a list? Do you expect them to take on any fit responsibility to your house? If yes, I would pass. Like Greendesigns said....$300 isn't worth the liability.