If you are looking for cheap but durable, go with cinderblocks. If price isn't as big a deal, go with BRICK! Bricks are NATURALLY occuring clay that has had sand added and baked. There are NO chemicals of any kind that can leach out, that wouldn't already be present in your soil! As far as making sure that the blocks don't move, the easiest thing would be to fill the cinderblocks with your growing medium, and yes by all means PLANT in them! Why would you want to give up good growing space?! If you are going with brick you could always mortar them together! They would then hold themselves together in the shape you desire, and you wouldn't have to worry about any shifting! With the cinderblocks, if you bury them about 2 inches deep, they should hold their place pretty well. I wouldn't expect that they would shift very much. As far as your current clay soil goes, I wouldn't remove it! Clay has a wealth of minerals readily available for your plants. The only issue is that it retains water TOO well, and has a tendancy to get very hard, IF/WHEN it finally dries out. In my own case, (I have a very clay soil as well) I have added a large amount of organic material to the soil. I would dig up (not out) the clay to loosen it, then add any organic material you can find (leaves, grass clippings, bags of humus, peat moss, etc.) and mix it in the bottom of the raised beds. Next I would add the clay you mentioned you have on the side of your house with compost that you seem to have access to frequently, and maybe throw a little vermiculite and peat moss as well. This will give your beds pretty nice drainage, while also having water retaining capabilities. Your clay soil has its downside, but it is also a great blessing! Pure clay is not great for growing, but a clay/humus mix is almost ideal! Btw, by adding the organics (pre-broken down) to the bottom layer of your soil, you will be welcoming worms to come up into your raised beds. (You can't get anything better for your soil than worms!) Good luck, and I hope this helps. Remember, clay is not a BAD thing, it just needs to be managed properly!

as far as i am concerned.. the ONLY issue with trees and clay.. presuming its zone appropriate ... is how you plant the tree in the clay ... if you have a really bad clay.. and dig a NON-draining hole.. and stick a potted tree in it.. and drown it.. it will.. well.. drown .... [the test is called a perk test .. to determine the drainage capacity of the soil ] so in clay .. you plant high.. planting only about half the root mass in the soil.. backfill with native soil.. and use a better draining soil to cover the rest ... this gives the transplant time to acclimate.. and put its roots,..,.. WHERE IT WANTS ITS ROOTS .... so if there is no reason a willow should not grow in your area... the soil itself should NOT matter ... if you dont kill it first ... that said .... no willow should be within 50 to 100 feet of a house ... just horrible trees in regard to such .... but out in the middle of a park.. or golf course.. splendid ... so that is the first issue on whether she should be encouraged to plant a willow .. its not for the usual suburban lot .. IMHO ... good luck ken

After I divided my Nelly about 2 years ago, I planted the newbies in areas with varying degrees of shade and still they are quite faded. Any other thoughts? Thanks!

I was taught this way and have found success with Macropetala Gazelle, Purple Spider, Markham's Pink, Blue Dancer (sprouted two weeks and still going, after removing from the fridge). Ken Donson and Wada's Primrose sprouted this July. Ken Donson got planted and Wada's Primrose is still in the baggie. Put 1/4 cup dry vermiculite in a snack size reclosable baggie (I've been using the noname ones from Superstore as they're cheap and come in boxes of 75) Add 1 1/2 tsp boiling water, shake to distribute moisture then let cool. Add seeds. Put in warm place in diffuse light (not direct sun) about 20C for 4 weeks Put in fridge (4C) 4 weeks. Put in warm place in diffuse light where they will germinate in about 2 weeks usually. I transplant when they have germinated. Poke a hole in the potting soil with your finger and gently tickle the root down into the hole then carefully push the soil back around the root gently. I leave the seed leaves above ground for these types (for the bigger seeds like texensis and the Large Flowered Hybrids etc. I plant when the root is about 1/2" or longer and leave the seed right at or just below the soil surface. Often they will eventually send up a tiny shoot without the seed leaves showing above ground.) I started the seeds December 4th 2007 on the fridge, then in the crisper, then under the grow lights for my amaryllis. I potted up the ones that sprouted and the ones that didn't, in late May I took the bags out to the greenhouse and pinned them to the frame. I have close to 30 seedlings potted up(some of the earlier ones are close to 8" long already.) Naturally I can't wait to see what flowers I get off them. I found the seeds I collected in England last year, and put in pots ouside for the winter have done nothing while my mother put those same seeds (in Januray and yes I actually shared my stash) into the vermiculite and she has 10-12 sprouted already. In fact my pots are full of buddlea seedlings! Overall with colder climates the vermiculite is a better and more sure-fire method of germination. Good luck with the seeds. Dana