I had the same problem and It was so challenging. It always looked unfinished and I felt like people would fall off of the edge of the deck. Plus our dog insisted it was a dog run which was kind of gross. We found a work around. We bought a fence screen from an online store that offers next day delivery (website to remain unnamed. :-) They come in different lengths, height and colours. (Forgive the mess. We were prepping the spot in front of the equipment to extend the concrete pad and address the gap) The fence screen we are fast an easy install and this fabric doesn't fade or rip. It allows air to flow through but keeps dirt from going through the fence. After I dug a trent for the trees, I ran the landscape fabric over stones that we placed along the bottom of the fenceto create a basin. then back filled with soil. Fence fabric https://www.amazon.ca/Windscreen4less-Privacy-Grommets-Warranty-Customized/dp/B001OJXVKW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=LGXTY2DJMA7U&keywords=fence%2Bscreen&qid=1652055342&sprefix=fence%2Bscreen%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-7&th=1 The chainlink acts like the retaining structure, the fence screen helped to keep everything on myside and the landscape fabric, wood and stone helped with drainage. We have a 20" drop from deck height so we didnt' have to dig down too far to plant cedars and we could fill up the gap with soil. To break up the green we had cedar privacy screens, strategically placed to be over drainage, and grounding wires for the pool. I plan to plant hydrangea bushes at the base of the cedar screens but my husband wants hicks yews (no maintenance required and all around greenery for those of use who have cold weather 8 months our of the year).

If the 10 in your reply refers to USDA zone 10 conditions, then there are 100's of groundcovers you could use in the gaps between concrete pads with drip irrigation. I am assuming you used in-line emitters with 12" or 6" o.c. spacing or soaker line. I would suggest things like Isotoma fluviatilis, Baby Tears, Dymondia(best with more sun and let somewhat dry in between irrigations),Dwarf Mondo Grass, Irish or Scotch Moss, Australian Violet, etc, etc. I hope that you have this area valved separately from the other drip within the garden, because in such a limited space you don't need more than just a few minutes daily to keep it well watered, and if it is drip connected to other drip areas, you are probably watering much longer than that. You might also consider using mexican pebble laid on edge and mortared in place as an alternative to ground cover, as almost any ground cover will eventually require clipping and grooming to keep it neat, which I suppose was your reason to remove the grass. If you do want to explore the grass look alike options, Carex pansa or Zoysia grass would also be good options, and require less clipping on a weekly basis than fescue or other cool season grasses.

Baby G, sorry for not catching your question earlier. In the end, that space was used for an addition to the house, so both the pond and plantings will be revisited when the addition is complete. Who knew!

I agree, you need shrubs, vines or upright growing trees that grow well in more of an alkaline type soil, since so much lime will be leaching from the driveway and retaining wall. I have seen it reported that some people have gotten a Climbing Fig (Ficus Pumila) to grow in USDA Zone 5. That is hard for me believe, since most sites list it as a 10-11 zone vine. But since the reports are not consistant, you might research your area to see if they would grow in your zone 8. They are reported to do fine in moist well draining organic soils with PH level ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 You could also consider growing the evergreen twining vine, Coral or Red honey suckle (Lonicera sempervirens)that blooms in late summer. It is a fast grower, but not as vigorus of a grower as the the common honeysuckle; thus, it is not a pest. If you desire to plant a row of small trees, You could consider planting the Wax Myrtle (myrica cerifera)evergreen trees. This tree is a fast grower that you could prune to form leggy trunks. Then you could underplant them with ground covers like the evergreen creeping phlox cultivars, or underplant them with a ground coverage planting of Liriope Muscari.