Narrow bed between fence & pool decking
Lil B
10 years ago
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catkim
10 years agolazy_gardens
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Need help choosing tall, narrow, around pool
Comments (2)Mother Nature really should turn her attention to hybridizing plants on demand designed for those difficult situations so often encountered by wishful property owners dreaming the impossible dream. Eric, I have kicked around in this landscape business for many years searching for plants that do not shed blossoms, seeds, leaves, fruits or attract bees and wasps, etc. The spot you are describing is not suitable for plants unless you are willing to clean up after them. Mother Nature really has a very clever growing plan. Plant litter which drops to the ground cold composts encouraging the development of nutritious fungi which in turn plants utilize for healthy growth. And on it goes. You are describing a very narrow planting area. Sky pencil holly probably will work best as they take well to pruning when their width outgrows the allotted space. Or, Skyrocket juniper is another consideration which takes shearing well....See MoreFence Lines/Narrow Space
Comments (2)Ilex crenata might work; there are cultivars like Sky Pencil, Mariesii, and maybe Dwarf Pagoda. I think they'd be hardy for you and they tolerate shade in case that is what you have there. And then there are the plum yews, formally known as Cephalotaxus. There is a fastigiate form of that, as there is of yew in case that isn't what you worked with before. I also wonder if you would consider the narrow weeping plants - they rule out topiary, but might fit the space. Things like Chamaecyparis 'Van den Akker' or a weeping purple beech. I haven't looked up all of this as to hardiness. If you want to pursue a type of conifer such as juniper or thuja, you could check into the conifers forum for precise guidance. A search of that forum may even bring up similar previously-asked questions. If you post a new question, you could link back to this thread so people there don't have to repeat what we've already suggested. KarinL...See MoreHelp me narrow down some variables...price my pool! :)
Comments (24)Good morning, would love to be able to do a OB in coordination w/ both of you but....I think I am a little too far away(Knoxville) and most importantly, although saving some money sounds great, OB seems like too much of a headache for me. I also don't have the confidence in my knowledge to carry that out. But, I certainly don't mind doing what to spread some of the info. I have collected so far if it helps you make some decisions. I think Alabama,GA, TN areas the markets for pools are similar. Unfortunately, I think yes, one could probably get a pool built in Florida for 20K less than here. Many more PB's there driving the market, also I think it is easier to excavate there(I might be guessing on that) but know it is sandier,less clay than here. The options one PB gave me for pool finishes are Marcite(included) Diamond Brite 4,500 Pebbletec 6,000 Durazzo 6,500. Of course that was for a 41x19 free-form, 3-10ft, so it is not comparing apples to apples. To do that I would have to figure surface area and break it down. The cost for that pool was to 70,500 which included everything but the decking. I had pavers priced, but he gave me option for broom finished concrete, which was $7 sg.ft. As I said, I couldn't afford that one, but it did include alot of upgrades, electric heat pump 8' diving board Letro pool cleaner SWG Durazzo finish Pentair 30"Sand filter and all the assumables like lights,skimmers, drains, excavation, plumbing, etc. Another pool builder priced a 20x 40 gunite rectangle at 50,000 here. including about 1,000 sf broom finish concrete gas heater(I don't want a gas heater so would have to add $$) SWG sand filter dive board and all the assumables. Have you considered a vinyl pool?? Nowadays, you can hardly tell the difference between a gunite and vinyl if you get a cantilever coping, vinyl over step and you have more money that can be put into decking or landscaping. Here a middle of the road price for a 20x40 rectangle 3.5-8ft deep was 41,000. Would be less if you want gas heat instead of heat pump, and that included 1104sg ft broom finish concrete, vinyl over step, SWG,dive board, heat pump, sand filter, skimmers, etc. I understand that a vinyl pool may be a little easier to heat and a little easier to keep the chemicals balanced. When polled, my sons said they actually like swimming in friends vinyl pools better. I don't think I will go vinyl since I need a more custom pool to fit in my space but I would definitely do vinyl if it would work for us. Takes a lot less time to install as well. Well, wish I could spend more time here, but have to get going, part two of celebration weekend, taking second son off to college today. If you have specific questions regarding costs of any options let me know, I will be getting back to this site late tonight probably....See MoreGoing yard-free but lawn is narrow - bed layout advice?
Comments (48)First and foremost, you would never want to eliminate a downspout. Not giving water an awesome way to escape from your roof edge wouldn't be helpful. If anything, it would be better to have a downspout that was not needed, or was being underused, as this causes no harm. Water spilling over the edge of an overused gutter (because it cannot escape through downspouts quickly enough) could potentially cause some "major" problems. "... the lot wasn't adequately graded to keep the water away from the sides of the house ..." In that case, the solution is to fix the inadequate grading. I doubt it was horribly inadequate so I doubt we are talking about that much. Given that your side yard is only a few feet in width, probably not more than a couple of inches difference in elevation would be necessary from the foundation to the lot line. (This is for the side yard only.) The other issue is getting water that falls at the back of the house to run from it and around to the sides, where it is carried forward by the proper side yard grading. Whether this is happening is very difficult for you to convey to me through pictures and words, especially when there are plants and things in the way in any photograph. You must just understand the concept and then be able to ascertain whether or not the proper thing is happening in real life, when you inspect the grounds first hand. Conceptually, the grade must fall away from the house in ALL DIRECTIONS, without exception. This may be nearly imperceptible to the eye, but it can be measured with a level placed perpendicular to the foundation walls. Water that runs away from the house must have a clear way to escape without being forced (by wrong grade) to return to the house. Likely, creating a path for water to escape from the house is going to be no problem at the front or both sides, since it requires little change or already exists with the natural grade. Where it could be a problem is at the back of the house, since there is a hill in the back yard running toward the house. There is an obvious potential conflict. In effect, you must create a "valley" (I'm using words that exaggerate what this would look like) between the house and the back yard hill. Water in that "valley" would run necessarily neither left nor right unless it were given some pitch in those directions. Typically, the "valley" would be highest near the center of the back of the house and lowest near the back corners of the house. This leads the water to run toward the corners. Once it arrives at the corners it is carried toward the front yard by the "valley" that exists between your yard and the neighbor's (his grade is pitched away from his house the same as your grade is from your house), and which corresponds with the side lot line. How much your yard's drainage correlates with this typical scheme is not possible for me to tell. But if you understand it, you can inspect parts of your yard and say "If rain falls at this spot, where will it run? Where is downhill from here?" The aggregate of how water would flow in all the individual spots will add up to if your yard has adequate drainage. If the concrete "trough" has an outlet -- a pipe at the bottom -- it is being used as a catch basin (drain). If it has no pipe, but just dirt in the bottom, it is being used as a retention pond (allows water to seep into the ground.) The latter would not be desirable in that location. If it is the former, the drawback is the structure itself ... its being in the way of beauty and use of the yard. If it is the latter, the drawback is that a lot of water is being slowly pumped into the soil next to your foundation. Either way, I would not want this thing in my yard. I'd want to figure out good surface drainage and then comply with it ... since doing that is not a big, bad, ugly, hugely expensive thing. (I'm speculating here, but it's based on what you've said so far.) If it's the case that your downspouts ARE emptying through underground pipe all the way to the city sidewalk, the drawback is that that's a lot of underground pipe, subject to potentially being blocked and failing right in the middle of any future storm. Yikes! What drain outlets you're seeing near the sidewalk at the face of everyone's retaining wall might just be drainage for the wall itself. All of the possibilities is not something I can ever know from afar. Someone must do sleuthing on site and make determinations about what is actually happening....See MoreYardvaark
10 years agoLil B
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Lil BOriginal Author