Hi Frank, The filter I have is the kind that the pump goes inside it. It comes with the filter media and some plastic things for the bacteria to live in. Just set the pump inside the filter box, place the plastic things on top, put in the media, and close the lid. Drop slowly into the pond. As I said earlier though, I cut a piece of pond underlayment to fit, and sandwiched it between the 2 filter pads it comes with. To me, the holes were just too big to filter out really fine silt. The pump will dictate the size of the hose. The hose on mine is 5/8'. It's black, and in the pond sections at the hardware stores. Comes in 20' sections. about $9.00. The link at the bottom is the Beckett page, and the filter I have is the 2nd one on the list, which comes with the 325 pump. I think I remember seeing the whole thing for about $119.00(HD). Lowe's has the same thing, under a different name though. Just make sure to match up the size of hoses while you're there, because the pump hose fittings are all different. I had the smaller pump/kit until I expanded my pond, and changed out the pump for the 325 gph. You could put a valve in, but I don't know if you will find that easily. But that would be great if you did. I had a hard time finding anything in 5/8' in black, but if yours will be hidden, it doesn't matter if it's black or not. My T is a 1/2', connected under water, with the 5/8' hose, very very tight, with a black cable tie. If you use a cable tie, make sure it's really tight, or water will leak out, and you will lose flow. You can use a metal hose clamp, but eventually they rust. I'm actually taking out one of the waterfalls this weekend, because I want to put in a bog shelf across one end of the pond. My pond is only about 3' wide, so I need to make the most of it. I consider my pond more of a water garden/water feature, so I have the water flow really scaled back, because it does splash out, and it's next to a cracked tiled patio, which has grout.(water splashes out-grout gets green) It's as big as it's ever going to get though, because it's wedged in a corner, in the ground, inside a 40X18' screened enclosure. Believe me, you will change/expand this no matter what, several times down the road, if you're able, because once you have a pond, you'll want it bigger. ;-0) Here is a link that might be useful: Pond filter

Chris, Nice job on the pond. Matala is being used more and more for filtration and for growing bacteria it is fine. But for catching debri it is not very good. The very reasons why people like it is the reasons that it is not good at catching debri. It is easily cleaned and doesn't clog up as quick. The reason why it doesn't clog up as quick because it doesn't catch as fine a debri. It is easier to clean because it doesn't hold debri as well. The pond water flowing thru it takes some of the debri with it. When Matala first came out 12 years ago I tried the white material which was the finest or the same as grey today in my skimmers. I found that it didn't work as well as the polyester pads. I used it for about 3 months before I stopped and went back to the original pads. The second thing I would think about would be to go to using the pump to running the bottom drain. I would guess that if you are running 2" PVC from your pump to the stream you should be getting about 4500 gph at the filter. Here I am going to suggest something that is old school. If you split the flow and put in a properly constructed bog filter your water clarity and filtering will improve a lot. There is no such thing as an ideal filter. The closest thing that has ever been on the market was a Nexus with an Answer. They no longer make the Answer so this filter is no longer even close to what it was. But a properly built bog filter will work as well as any thing else and in most cases better. By the way the least dense Matala is black. It goes black, green, blue and grey from the least dense to the most dense. Mike

Hi Computerklutz, Where are you in the metroplex? I am from Arlington (Dalworthington Gardens, actually) but our family moved to Raleigh, NC, 7 years ago. My parents and sister are still there; I'm going to see them next week! Yes, you have had LOTS of rain for Texas! We put a pond in this spring (actually, we had our landscaper build it for us) and we have enjoyed it so much! I would go at least 24" deep, maybe even 30" as it will make it harder for the herons to get your fish. Also, try to dig it out with straight, steep sides - this also makes fishing a bit more difficult for predators. Our current pond is 21" deep; I had asked for 36" repeatedly and am still unsure how we ended up with this. We have a Savio skimmer/pump/waterfall setup which is easy to maintain but creates LOTS of current in our 7'X11' pond which is not so great for the plants. I think you will be very happy with goldfish and plants. I am surprised that I am enjoying the water gardening end of this as much as the fish! I've especially loved watching the hardy and tropical lilies grow and bloom. We have goldfish and koi and I love my Sarassa comets and shubunkin goldfish as much as the koi (and they are much less destructive with the plants). We are going to add a second, larger, deeper connected pond to our existing pond to separate our koi from the watergarden, hopefully this winter, and are going to upgrade our filtration at the same time. Someone with more knowledge than me should address filtration/pump suggestions with you. I would suggest investing in the very best liner material that you can afford - you don't want leaks or to have to redo this later! Also, I would suggest including a waterfall feature as it is so soothing and I think your husband will enjoy it. I hope you are building your pond close to your home where he can see the pond from the porch/patio and/or inside the house. I hope he gets to feeling better very soon. This is such a sweet thing you are doing for him!

Heartwoman, A local water garden nursery has a bog filter on their ponds. Here are their instructions for constructing a bog filter for your pond and they work great. We are currently building a pond with a waterfall & stream and we are definitely including a bog filter. I understand you want to include your bog filter at the top of your waterfall but we are putting ours to the side of the pond. The water will be pumped from the end opposite of the waterfall. At the waterfall, it will be split with part going to the waterfall and part going to the bog filter. Hope this helps, Joan (these instructions came from Nelson's website) The Bog Garden as a Filter Make the bog garden functional as well as aesthetic! By following the directions below you can create a bog garden that also acts as filter; henceforth referred to as the "Bog Gravel Filter". This style filter bog garden is really a variation of the traditional "in pond" bog but forces water through a perforated PVC pipe buried in the bog by a submersible pump located in the pond portion of the water garden. Follow the usual directions for building a liner pond. To provide for the bog gravel filter, just excavate this area to a depth of 12". Before laying in the rubber liner build a retaining wall to separate the 12" deep bog gravel filter from the deeper pond. This wall should be 1-2" below the pond surface. BE SURE TO ALLOW for enough liner to go over this wall. Put a submersible pump in the pond opposite the bog garden and run pipe to the far end of the bog. Select a pump which will turn over the volume of the pond every 2 hours. The outlet of the pump determines the size PVC you will use, i.e. a pump with 1 1/2" outlet would use 1 1/2" pipe. Create a manifold to distribute the water evenly throughout the bog gravel. Drill the PVC pipe with 1/4" holes spaced approximately 3" apart and cap the ends. Your line of holes should point toward the bottom of the pond at a 45( angle. Gravel bogs that are 2-3 feet in width can be fed by a single course of pipe. Wider areas require additional lines spaced 2-3 apart. Lay the PVC pipe matrix on top of the liner then add the gravel to the bog gravel filter area. This layout is similar to setting up a septic system. Lay decorative rocks or stones across the retaining wall but do not mortar in the joints. Follow the directions for planting the bog above. Turn on the Pump. Water filters through the bog, between the joints of the stonework on the retaining wall and back into the pond. You'll be amazed at how quickly the water clears and how lush the plants will grow! NOTE: An existing pond can be retrofitted with a bog garden by building a gravel bog garden nearby. The water can be circulated between the two gardens via pipework or a waterfall. The Border Bog Gravel Filter This is another variation of an "in pond" bog and is the most natural looking bog garden of all. Dig the pond, with a shelf 12" deep all around it's perimeter. This shelf can be as wide or narrow as desired. Vary the width of the shelf around the pond for a natural look. Lay liner into the pond excavation. At the edge of the shelf place tall rocks, if necessary these can be mortared into place. This creates a trench or planting pockets between the edge of the pond and the edge of the shelf bordered by the wall of the pond on one side and the rock wall on the other. Run your drilled pipework through the "trench" and attach to pump inside the pond. Follow directions for planting bog plants in gravel Steps 5-8 of the Gravel Bog Garden. In conclusion Bog Gardens and Bog Gravel Filters are both environmentally responsible forms of gardening. By setting up a Bog Garden you can create a lush garden yet use little water. And the Bog Gravel Filter works with Nature, you are in effect setting up an artificial swamp or marsh. Like swamps and marshes, the Gravel Bog Filter serves as a massive biological and phyto filter. Nitrifying bacteria thrive in the gravel bed reducing the organic wastes, while the plants effectively absorb the nitrates and other nutrients before they can be utilized by algae. You can jump start the bacterial activity by inoculating the gravel with any of a number of good bacterial starter products on the market. Maintenance is typically restricted to a little light pruning during the growing season and a thinning out of the plants each spring. This allows for plenty of room for the plants to grow and continue absorbing the free nutrients in the pond. Some Bog Plant Selections: Bog Plants Arrowhead Assorted Taros Bog Lily Cannas Chinese Water Chestnut Creeping Jenny Dwarf Horsetail Dwarf Papyrus Dwarf Variegated Sweetflag Giant Melon Sword Japanese Iris Lizard's Tail Lousiana Iris Pickerel Rush Red Stemmed Sagittaria Ribbon Grass Ruby Creeper Ruby Eye Arrowhead Sensitive Plant Siberian Iris Spider Lily Spike Rush Star Grass Thalia Variegated Spider Lily White Bull Rush Zebra Rush Plants that are invasive in the Bog (Think Twice Before Planting) Horsetail Aquatic Mint Chameleon Plant Parrot's Feather Red Stemmed Thalia Cattails Umbrella Palm Yellow Iris Other Plants (experiment!) Bishops Weed Crocasmia Hostas Astilbes Fox Glove False Sunflower Primulas Ligularia The rocket Leopard Plant (Ligularia) Day Lilies Helleborus Meadow Rues Hibiscus moscheutos Hibiscus coccineus Bergenia False Dragonhead or Obedient Plant Liatris Polygonums Forget me nots Calla Lily Violas Trilliums Goats Beard Joe Pye Weed Butterfly Ginger Society Garlic Ground Orchidis (Bletilla) Suggested reading: Gardening with Water by James van Sweden Pond and Water Gardens by Bill Heritage The Water Garden a Practical Guide to Planning and Planting by Peter Robinson Waterside Planting by Philip Swindells The Stream Garden by Archie Skinner & David Arscott